Thread: Will not start after replcacing fuel rail and injectors

okay thanks imma make a list of what ive done to check
check plugs
check plug
test power to injectors
put new old injectors back in then put new ones back after that didnt work
tightern up the icm connector
sprayed starter fluid (started with that)
everytime i take fuel rail off it sprays fuel everywhere so its getting fuel to injectors for sure

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

So for the car to run and toggle the injectors, you need a couple of things.

The PCM needs to see that the car is running. This is done with signals from the coil pack getting back to the PCM. Otherwise the PCM turns off the injectors. The injectors are then toggled on/off via the ground wires that go to them from the PCM. I have also seen a bad maf turn off fuel with the pcm thinking it had no airflow, so no fuel.

There's not much that can do it though. I'm trying to load the up GM manuals to see the diagnostic aid.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

that would be a bad fuel pump causing the low pressure, would explain why it was cranking 10 times before it fired up the before vid you posted.

try beating on the bottom of the gas tank, see if the pressure goes up. if it does and then fires right up, you know the pump is bad. beating on the tank can shock it back to life. but its a temp fix at best.

where can i get a fuel pump cheap because I dont feel like putting alot into this car other than into motor as is is a doner car but will be my daily for a few months till i pull the motor

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

ebay, you can buy just the pump, take your canister out, swap the pump in your canister, run ya 30 to 50 tops.

test it first for pressure before tossing money at it.

Oh absolutely I'm gonna test it b4 lol

Would this one work
255LPH High Performance Intank Fuel Pump for TBI LT1 LT4 LS1 Replaces F20000169 | eBay

Did you ever varify wheather or not the security light was flashing? It super simple to check and rule out as a possibility. if the pass lock sensor fails you will still get spark, but it will cut power to your injectors. So it will still run on starting fluid. you mentioned replacing the ignition, so that what leads me to believe its related to your issue.

Also the pass lock wire is the yellow wire that ties into the ignition, if it didnt get hooked up with the new ignition then it wont start.

Originally Posted by 05GXPBeast

Did you ever varify wheather or not the security light was flashing? It super simple to check and rule out as a possibility. if the pass lock sensor fails you will still get spark, but it will cut power to your injectors. So it will still run on starting fluid. you mentioned replacing the ignition, so that what leads me to believe its related to your issue.

Also the pass lock wire is the yellow wire that ties into the ignition, if it didnt get hooked up with the new ignition then it wont start.

well before the lock cylinder was drilled out and it started with screw driver but there was no wire

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Passlock should depend on his year. Anything before 2004 and the fuel system is supposed to prime, the car should fire and then die as long as it's pre 2004.

like I said above but yea mine is an 01 so it just dies after 10 min

imma get a pressure tester and get back later

Pass lock failure can happen to various GM vehicles from the late 90's to mid 2000's. My grand prix gt is a 2003 and did not fire and die. it would not fire at all unless starting fluid was used. symptoms can vary like crank/ no start or starting then dying. sometimes it just fails for no reason and its so easy to overlook. This just sounds so much like me about a year ago when I was in the same boat.

Originally Posted by 05GXPBeast

Pass lock failure can happen to various GM vehicles from the late 90's to mid 2000's. My grand prix gt is a 2003 and did not fire and die. it would not fire at all unless starting fluid was used. symptoms can vary like crank/ no start or starting then dying. sometimes it just fails for no reason and its so easy to overlook. This just sounds so much like me about a year ago when I was in the same boat.

so how did you fix it?

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

you leave the key to run for 10 minutes, then turn it off for less then 10 seconds, then on for 10 minutes again do this 3 times, then the 4 th time it should crank and run.

so thats key to run 3 times for 10 minutes, turn it off and then it should crank and run on the 4 th key turn. if your battery is weak run a battery charger or you can use jumper cables off a running car to keep your battery alive. you dont want to waste 30 minutes of life 2 times on this.

so true lol ill keep a charger on it

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i forgot to add, you cant open the door or anything once you start this, so either open the window and work the key through the open window, or have snacks and a drink while you sit locked in the car the whole time. use a timer too.

oh okay thats why it didnt work when i got it last week thanks!!

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

i forgot to add, you cant open the door or anything once you start this, so either open the window and work the key through the open window, or have snacks and a drink while you sit locked in the car the whole time. use a timer too.

Lol yeah, it sucks... but better than paying the dealer $100!

Originally Posted by wstefan20

Lol yeah, it sucks... but better than paying the dealer $100!

absolutely