Thread: Sounds like a flexplate noise, if so pulling Eng/Trans

Ok my sons car 2000 GTP 150k Sounds like the flexplate might be making some horrible noises. Just based on what I seen and heard from it. And comparing to others around here and on the tube. Ill post a couple vids he took below.

He would like to attempt to pull this from the top, motor and trans in one shot since this is a home project, no lift, and he would like to replace some gaskets on it at the same time. I think main seal and timing cover are leaking? common?


Ive seen some trans removal post, but looking for hints, tips, write ups, what to have on hand, and suggested replacing at that time.

This is on a low budget, no pulling of heads, new cams upgrading going to be happening. Just trying to fix whats wrong.

Also in doing this, I am pretty sure we are throwing the 8.4 hours of labor all data shows for replacement, lol

Thanks guys!

https://youtu.be/dsVCrZ5APf8

https://youtu.be/C1DI7H3oJLg

why pull trans for a flex plate problem?

You can just yank the engine to replace the flex plate.

you know the flex plate is on the motor right?

you can pull either or, one has to come out, tranny is likely easier to drop then a engine removal.

but if you got oil leaks this is the time to re gasket the engine.

bah, engine out top> drop subframe anyday! At that point 2 bolts more and the motor can come out.

Originally Posted by SgtMarshal

Might be able to tighten the flex plate bolts, mine loosened up, and tightening them up fixed it. I plan on dropping the trans out the bottom.

I hear you cant really get to them when its all together, not enough room through the inspection hole? (I have not been under this car to verify)

Originally Posted by ItHurtz

bah, engine out top> drop subframe anyday! At that point 2 bolts more and the motor can come out.

Can we come up there and get some pro help! lol.


I dont have the best selection of tools is one thing thats gonna suck.

Here in the Rust Belt we have this thing called rust that likes to f*** you by ripping apart the subframe Bolt cages and letting the nuts pain inside the body until you cut a hole in your floor to try to fix it or through the engine compartment side which means you're also pulling the engine.
then there's that whole pesky thing we're pretty much every gasket on the engine needs to be replaced on almost all cars over 75,000 miles...where's the transmission ....maybe the pan gasket leaks.

lol I dont think you want to work on a crushed asphalt driveway, but I do have every tool needed and a engine lift

You dont need much tools really, 10, 13, 15mm? Nothing to it, unbolt torque converter from flex plate through the inspection hole, unbolt trans from block, few misc things and boop hello engine.

Don't forget the 50 foot extension to reach the ***** bolt

That too, you could also try and separate trans from block in the bay with the tc unbolted and try to see if the flex is broken before yanking it out

After the torque converter is unbolted and pushed back you will be able to flex the flex plate with a pry bar and you should be able to see the broken sections near the windowd holes...from the bottom

even better!

Originally Posted by Turbocharged400sbc

After the torque converter is unbolted and pushed back you will be able to flex the flex plate with a pry bar and you should be able to see the broken sections near the windowd holes...from the bottom

Cant you also start it up with the TC unbolted, and if it is the flexplate, the noise should go away?

Yes, just make sure the tc doesnt slide back and hit the spinning flex plate.

it depends on the location and angle of the fracture. .. but unbolting the torque converter can actually make it noisier or quieter

Definitely the flexplate. I guess it could be worse, but it could be better, lol. Engine coming out in the next few days.

www.06gt.com/GrandPrix/Flexplate.jpg

www.06gt.com/GrandPrix/Flexplate2.jpg