Thread: running open speed daddy headers to the shop

Alright so I've been having a dilemma for the past 3 days or so. I've gotten my front exhaust manifold out, the crossover pipe, and I've been working at the rear ones for 2 days now. I've pb blasted them for the last 2 days, letting it soak in over night, tapping, etc. My 2 ft breaker bar doesn't fit at the right angle to reach the nuts, even with the engine pulled forward. Wrench doesn't have enough torque and I'm not the strongest guy. I can't get the old front manifold and crossover back on, due to some issues with it, and so I'm just wondering if I can put the front speed daddy portion on and drive to an exhaust shop with open front headers. I've read up on the forums talking about valve warping and such, but half say it's a myth. I'm more worried about melting any wiring or something while driving to the shop. Also, if I miraculously get the back manifold nuts and such off, the dp bolts are just as rusted. Will just days of pb soaking cut it or am I left with going to a shop like I stated above? Dunno, it's just a weird angle to go at the downpipe.

I would think running any open header is not going to work well seeing how hot the exhaust gases are coming right off the manifold. You would likely melt everything in it's way.

Can you get to the downpipe bolts from underneath? I can't remember how it's setup but I recall using my super long ext. to get one of them off. Might have been on my Bonne though. I would just keep soaking them with PB and maybe hit the nuts with a little heat and see if they break loose. Get yourself a swivel for the breaker bar as it should get in there at the correct angle.

FYI, there are better penetrating oils than pb blaster.

Liquid wrench works quite a bit better. A 1:1 mix of acetone and tranny fluid is awesome, but it will remove paint.