Thread: Need a workaround

Hey people, Its been a while but I'm still struggling with my dead cylinder #4 issue. Its been about a year since I originally posted about this issue with numerous attempts to solve it. I finally gave up and took it to a "reputable" repair shop. According to them I have a "floating valve." Of course the recommended fix is engine replacement. This is what he said:

"Misfire Cylinder #4, runs very rough. Has good spark, getting fuel, good compression (150 psi). There is a mechanical tapping noise coming from the same cylinder head as misfire.

"Very low oil pressure at the valve train, valve springs are weak from lack of lubrication. Allows valve to float at times. Lower end oil pressure is slightly low as well, spec 60 psi at 1850 rpm, actually 35 psi at 1850 rpm. Recommend engine assembly."

Sooooo, is this that serious? I know its a problem but its a problem that I've had for over a year. The car runs and runs fairly well (relatively speaking) especially if its not cold.

Anyone have any suggestions for a DIY work around? Its now become a matter of principle. I refuse to let this car beat me.

I looked at it at the shop. I have no idea what I was looking at tho. I'm still wondering how we got all the way to engine replacement.

If you pull the valve cover to see what's going on, and find out you do need a new engine, might as well keep running it until it dies since you've been driving it for a year knowing about the issue, anyways. I also wouldn't trust their diagnosis, valve springs are floating because of being weakened by lack of lubrication? Wat? Pull the valve cover, fire the car up, and make sure that cylinders valves/springs are operating like the ones next to it. A broken spring, sunk lifter, etc will be easily noticeable.

Okay, new issue. My fan won't blow and I've replaced the J Fuse and it immediately blew again. Soooo, no heat in the winter. I think the blower motor may be fried but I wanted to know if it could be anything else.

That's why you my guy Scotty, you always come with the most work right away. If I change the resistor, should I do the blower motor as well?

I saw a vid on YT showing the change of the heater core. I'll sell the car first. LOL

I'm thinking they were noobs cause it HAS to be an easier way.

Luckily when I bought the car it didn't have a glove box so all that's clear. (never got around to replacing it, who wears gloves in Texas?) So it should be right there. This car is throwing everything it can at me. I still have to solve the bad cylinder issue. Ever since I got it back its been running especially rough. Warm days not so bad. Cold days, huffs and puffs like a two pack a day smoker. smh, I don't know what the issue really is. LOL

I was thinking the same thing. The issue seems to be limited to that one cylinder. Its an 11 year old car so I know that there are going to be other nagging little things, but when that cylinder is not misfiring, the car has good power, mileage and is quiet. My first thought was to go straight to either a bad lifter, spring or something electrical. In any event, I always thought it was something imminently fixable not a whole engine replacement. Then the replacement cost for them to do it was $5700. Needless to say, I didn't pay it. LOL The mech never said anything about needing the heads rehabilitated or anything. So I'm like, can't you just fix the spring issue or the low oil pressure issue?

Okay, Texas winter lasts two weeks so I'm back to having time to get back to this. I haven't been driving the car as I've not been anywhere. I checked the power on the harnesses and all was good to the resistor but at the connection beneath the hood out of four I had two dead (grounds?) one strong light and one weak light. Basic one lead circuit tester. I want to say I checked the connector to the motor itself but I'm not sure. I'll go check it in a few. Should I spend the money on the resistor or continue to chase the electrical?

Okay, new wrinkle. I banged on the dash beside the ignition and a trickle of heat came out the vents. I've read that this issue could be cause by a bad ignition switch. I got a alert from GM telling me to take it in for the ignition to be repaired but I haven't had time. What do you guys think?