Thread: How to change fuel filter in 2000 model

Take off the quick connect side and put a line wrench on the line and use a big pair of channel locks and spin the fuel filter off.

It's very simple, release the quick disconnect (squeeze and pull) and then wrench the nut off.
Usually they are rusted pretty badly, so you might need to get some PB Blaster and a heat source (please dont use a torch, fuel + fire = bad) and soak the nut until it will break free.

#8 Fuel Filter - GM# 25121293 / ACDelco #GF578

Middle of the car on the driver side, need to jack up and support properly before you get under.
Quick connect on one side, bolt on the other side. Need to unbolt the bracket that holds the filter to get it loose enough to slide the old one out and the new one in, or unbolt completely and put back onto new one prior to installation.

Warning, keep face out from underneath it unless you like the flavor of gas, you will spill some during this process.

Also - DO NOT SMOKE WHILE CHANGING THE FILTER!!!!

All in all it should only take a few minutes to change one the car is supported. Its easy, just unbolt one side with 2 wrenches, once its loose, use your fingers or pliers to push the tabs in on the quick connect side and remove. reverse to install new one.

One of a few possibilities. Could be plugs n wires, bad coils, vacumm leak,clogged cat, one of the TB sensors could be dirty or bad. But start with fuel filter, its cheapest.

Could very easily be a very clogged filter. Start there, if that doesn't fix it then:

Check your plug wires, make sure they dont have any frays, cuts, tears, or rust on the inside of the boots.
Check your plugs. Check for cracks in the porcelain, and see if they are properly gapped, and not fouled.
Check your coil packs for rust on the terminals, or any cracks/splits in the coils themselves.

If it feels like your hitting a wall during acceleration (doesnt want to go over 4000rpm or so) then it's most likely the catalytic converter.

If you're still lost, get the OBDII codes pulled, and see which cylinders it is misfiring on, and go from there. If it comes back as a "Multiple Cyl. Misfire" it more than likely a bad coil pack.

^ This

Start with the fuel filter.

If it still drives funny, I would suggest going to a local parts store and buying "MAF Cleaner Spray". You will want to use it to spray the MAF and make sure its clean and not dirty and causing a bad signal... never touch the sensor, just spray it and let it dry.

Second would be to get some Injector cleaner spray and spray the connector points on the vacuum lines, doing this will let you know if there is a leak. If there is a leak (spray each connecter while engine is idling) when you spray that point it will cause the engine to surge up and the rpms will rise. Go slow, so you know exactly which point has a leak.

Change plugs and wires with good quality parts, most use Autolight 606s and w/e wires have a life-time warranty for stock use. Or buy AcDelco replacements
Plugs GM# 12568387 (ACDelco #41-101) (IRIDIUM)
Wires GM# 19171849 (ACDelco #726RR)

Make sure if you replace the wires, you clean the contacts on the coils, and you replace wire for wire 1 at a time so you don't wire them up wrong. That would just cause more problems lol.

Good luck, let us know how things go.

I was gonna do my ff, then chickened out when i seen how rusted the lines were. Thought if id try and break the nut free id possibly snap the line, then id have a whole nother project on my hands, and prob a pricey one too. Lol

Thanks for repeating what i said machinegun but in detailed fashion. My line was rusted to the nut so after nearly 30min of me strugglin i asked my handyman neighbor and he got it undone in like 5 min. It can be broken free just gotta keep at it or use PB blaster.

Or don't worry about breaking the nut free and just spin the filter

You have a rev limiter when in park so you dont over rev the engine. That's normal

To know for sure you really need to put a load on the engine, DSMUTS is right, under 15mph the computer will keep the engine from going over a certain RPM to keep you from endangering the motor. Get out on a safe area/highway on-ramp and WOT (Wide Open Throttle) to the speed limit (we don't condone speeding/careless driving ) If this is when it is cutting out you have a problem. If it cuts out at higher RPMS it could be fuel or spark related, if it starts chugging and wont even get to higher RPMS when you floor it, then most likely a clogged converter.

In that case, it's probably not the cat, during acceleration you will feel the car bog, and feel starved for power.

Change the fuel filter, it's cheap, and is a good preventative maintenance.

New spark plugs and plug wires, again, cheap and easy to fix, and good preventative maintenance.

Do those, and I bet you'll be golden.

Vacuum leak