Thread: Top swapped L26 goes BOOM :D

Exaggeration, but not sure what happened yet. Its a top swapped L26 with a 3.4 pulley/ 42.5lb injectors/ TOGS+ full exhaust/ ZZP fuel rail and pcm.

I was pulling out of taco bell after getting some food, I floored it to get up to speed. When I got to around 4k in 2nd gear, the car bogged and I let off immediately. (First time its ever done that).

I get to the light to come back to school, and its running on the rough side- nothing too crazy. The boost started fluttering up to 3-5psi at idle. I limped it back to campus and now theres a metallic clinking coming from the top end, it sounds like the screws in the M90 ran dry of oil and are just clunking together.

I had a buddy come help me diagnose it, as soon as he touched my engine- the SES light came on LOL.

I guess now I'm just hoping I can make it the 40 miles back home without it exploding, and looking for supercharger oil. If its not a lube issue, I guess its onto another charger. I don't know what gens can bolt on to which engine, so maybe theres a write up on that.

Is there anything else I might be overlooking from the symptoms I'm describing to you guys? Its definitely not knocking, it doesn't sound like a valvetrain issue either.

I was thinking about that right when it happened, but I'm not exactly what to do because the PO didn't set this car up like it typically is from the pics I've seen. Everything is hooked up to one belt. Check it out:

http://www.grandprixforums.net/new-g...aha-58223.html

Nothing but good news

Sigh, this sucks. What would the symptoms be if I did chip a piston? I haven't scanned for KR since I bought the car so it could be a possibility.

I was just youtubing cars running with chipped pistons, and this clicking/ clunking is much more quiet than all the videos make it out to be. You can just hear it faintly over the exhaust as I drive (the exhaust is very loud though..).

My tensioner rocks back and forth like crazy now, engine also vibrates a lot more.

What if I pulled the belt off the pulley, do you think the tensioner would take up the slack? I get out of class in an hour so I guess I'll find out.

Well I limped it back home keeping the rpm under 2200, these cars having such tall gearing made it easier.

I'm wondering what could've made my boost spike like that at idle, the car behaved normally on the drive home apart from the SES light staying on and the persistent clanking noise. I'll check the oil reservoir on the charger tomorrow, as well as take the belt off the pulley to diagnose exactly whats going on.

If it turns out that the needle bearings in the charger are gone, or the issue is something apart from the coupler that isn't feasible to repair- I'm not sure what I'll do. I'd be inclined to just spend the cash and go turbo.

Originally Posted by slick2500

Get and Aeroforce Interceptor Scan gauge from zzp or else were before you buy anything else. As someones sig says not scanning your car when you mod is like having sex with hookers without a condom and just hoping you dont get an std.

I have dual scan gauges, but completely forgot about them.

As far as it being an L26, I honestly can't be certain. I bought the car in Feb and am just going by what the PO told me. The fact that it has an SSM90 setup from zzp would indicate that it was an NA engine.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Unhook the belt with teh car cold and try turning the pulley. How's that feel?
Try starting it up w/o the belt and let it run for 15-20 seconds, any noise?

If the noise is still there, pull the plugs and look at each as you pull them. Any bashed up?

Did that and still makes noise, charger spins freely and has oil so thats out. I didn't get to pull the plugs, I guess this thing is toast though.

Tell me about it. I will admit that I haven't changed the oil since I bought it (I was anticipating replacing my oil pan gasket soon)- so long shot, but just maybe it might do something.

Its a shame though, the engine ran very strong and put a lot of higher end cars to shame around here. Theres a guy selling a rebuilt L67 and 4t65e-hd locally for $1400, but with the amount of rust on this car if the issue does turn out me having to rebuild or swap- I'll just part it out.

pull the spark plugs out and see if any of them are smashed or broken, is there a check engine light on?