Broken plug, threads only - remove head or pull engine?

**fearnot** · 10-31-2011

1998 grandprix 3.8 no supercharger

Dad broke a plug off in the rear bank, only the threads remain.

My plan was to remove the rear head and repair it on the bench. I've heard a few people say that it's easier and cheaper to pull the engine to gain access to work on the plug hole.

If it turns out to be easier / cheaper to lift the engine we'd fill the cylinder with cotton, wax and grease so that we can drill and tap the hole while the head is still on the engine. I can scope the cylinder when done to make sure that it's clean.

I'd have to hoist the engine. I don't have a lift, so I can't drop the front end out the bottom.

Thanks

**whiney** · 10-31-2011

How to remove a broken spark plug embedded deep down in the engine block
If you follow the drill bit size that you need you just give the extractor a good smack into the hole and you will be surprised how much turning force you can put on it before it slips. Also heat up the remains of the spark plug, the plug will contract once it is cool so it will break the rust seal on it. Or at least we hope haha

**fearnot** · 10-31-2011

Originally Posted by whiney

How to remove a broken spark plug embedded deep down in the engine block
If you follow the drill bit size that you need you just give the extractor a good smack into the hole and you will be surprised how much turning force you can put on it before it slips. Also heat up the remains of the spark plug, the plug will contract once it is cool so it will break the rust seal on it. Or at least we hope haha

Thank you for the input. I'm familiar with removing broken plugs. The challenge is that it is on the rear bank against the fire wall. so the question was weather it was easier to pull the head off of the back or hoist the engine to work on it.

**FordMan77** · 10-31-2011

Disconnect both front dogbone mounts and put a ratchet strap somewhere on the back of the motor (at factory there is a hook somewhere near the alt) and connect the other end to the rad. support. Then just pull the motor forward thus rocking the backside away from the firewall. Keep in mind your downpipe is still attached and you may hit the tunnel if you pull it too far.