Thread: Spark Plugs

Hey gp heads!! Im probably going to ask the noobest question on the site but........can someone please show me how to change these spark plugs on a 97 gp se!! If you can send any pics showing it that would be much appreciated. I had the car for a year and i havent even checked the plugs smh. Thanks

First off, get yourself a new set of wires as well as they are likely to break/separate when you remove them thus rendering them junk.

Also, twist the boot on the plug before removing them as it will break the boot loose from the ceramic and make removal easier. Watch your hands on the front 3 as when they pop off the back of your hand/wrist has a nice way of finding the fan shroud which is sharp

ONLY DO 1 WIRE and 1 PLUG AT A TIME. This will reduce the risk of crossing wires. Trust me it happens all the time, even when you swear 3 times over that you didn't.

Get some dielectric grease. A small tube will do.

The front 3 are straight forward. Just grab a spark plug socket and a 3' extension and go to town. Put some dielectric grease on the inside of the boot where it connects to the plug and on the other where it attahces to the coil. Reuse the stock heat sheilds on the plug end if yours has them.

As for getting to the back 3, since you're new at this your best bet is to remove BOTH front dogbone mounts and then attach a ratchet strap to the hook on the motor and the other end to the rad. support. Then just rock the motor forward a bit using the strap to hold it. It will only rotate a few inches but with the worn motor and trans. mounts your car probabaly has it may move a bit further. Just be aware that the front exhaust manifold may hit things up front, and that the rear exhaust can only flex so far.

From there its just follow the wire. The rear plug closest to the drivers side is almost in line w/ the O2 sensor, so be careful. Same as front use dielectric grease and heat sheilds.

Make sure you get a nice "click" as you connect the new wires to the spark plug. If not, then double-check that it is on securely.

Once you get all the rear wires in place make sure NONE of them are touching the manifold or the 02 sensor as it will burn the wires and cause issues. Use zip ties if you must to keep them out of the way. There will be some slack in the rear 3 as most replacements are longer than needed.

I personally would just go w/ stock Delco wires and a good copper plug. I run NGK TR55 V-power coppers in my 00 GT and it runs just fine. Check the gap on the new plugs and make sure its set properly (should be .55 IIRC).

Fire it up and enjoy a nice smooth running vehicle

FML, lol... Yes, I meant 3" extension. Although I'd bet with enough u-joints it would work

Originally Posted by FordMan77

First off, get yourself a new set of wires as well as they are likely to break/separate when you remove them thus rendering them junk.

Also, twist the boot on the plug before removing them as it will break the boot loose from the ceramic and make removal easier. Watch your hands on the front 3 as when they pop off the back of your hand/wrist has a nice way of finding the fan shroud which is sharp

ONLY DO 1 WIRE and 1 PLUG AT A TIME. This will reduce the risk of crossing wires. Trust me it happens all the time, even when you swear 3 times over that you didn't.

Get some dielectric grease. A small tube will do.

The front 3 are straight forward. Just grab a spark plug socket and a 3' extension and go to town. Put some dielectric grease on the inside of the boot where it connects to the plug and on the other where it attahces to the coil. Reuse the stock heat sheilds on the plug end if yours has them.

As for getting to the back 3, since you're new at this your best bet is to remove BOTH front dogbone mounts and then attach a ratchet strap to the hook on the motor and the other end to the rad. support. Then just rock the motor forward a bit using the strap to hold it. It will only rotate a few inches but with the worn motor and trans. mounts your car probabaly has it may move a bit further. Just be aware that the front exhaust manifold may hit things up front, and that the rear exhaust can only flex so far.

From there its just follow the wire. The rear plug closest to the drivers side is almost in line w/ the O2 sensor, so be careful. Same as front use dielectric grease and heat sheilds.

Make sure you get a nice "click" as you connect the new wires to the spark plug. If not, then double-check that it is on securely.

Once you get all the rear wires in place make sure NONE of them are touching the manifold or the 02 sensor as it will burn the wires and cause issues. Use zip ties if you must to keep them out of the way. There will be some slack in the rear 3 as most replacements are longer than needed.

I personally would just go w/ stock Delco wires and a good copper plug. I run NGK TR55 V-power coppers in my 00 GT and it runs just fine. Check the gap on the new plugs and make sure its set properly (should be .55 IIRC).

Fire it up and enjoy a nice smooth running vehicle

Ok that sounds pretty straightforward. I wasnt aware that the heat shields can be removable. Are they the grey piece in the middle of the plugs??

This....




And blue, would it help that I'm double-jointed at the elbows

"Whatever your Wacky Waving Inflatable Arm Flailing Tube Man needs are. So come on down to Wacky Waving Inflatable Arm Flailing Tube Man emporium and warehouse. Route 2 in Weekapaug."

Careful, I pulled the boot with the heatshield on it too hard and cut up my hands pretty bad from them flingy back. I find that taking the springs out of the heatshields easier (one they're off of course), as they're really not needed.... Also around this time, after you take the spark plugs out of the engine, grab a small rag or vaccum hose , and suck out all the dirt/rust particles near the spark plug holes... That way when you screwing in the new plugs, you dont have rust/dirt in the engine. Also if you have the a N/A 04+ engine, I find that taking off coolant reserve helps with the reaching part. You will also have to remove 3 bolts for the heatshield on the exhaust like the guy said above.