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Great tip, I'll be headed down to my hardware store to look for those. I've been following along with this thread, minus the TCC PWM solenoid since that was already done. http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...in-the-Vehicle
So short of the shaft itself, vasoline (I have it already), fluid, and the headless bolts, this should do it, right?
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps76703509.jpg
Right.. if you can find bolts..just cut the heads off. I literally use old trans bolts that are cut.
Might also see the thread by me, I think Navy mentions it in his. Never too much reading to ensure you are comfy. If a buddy has another jack.. it's good to have a second on hand.
Yep, I have another jack, some blocks of wood, extra jack stands, cinder blocks, all kinds of things to support\lift vehicles, lol. I just did the TCC PWM solenoid last weekend so I figure I should do this stuff while it's all fresh in my head. I'll be reading more and more on the job (I've been reading on it since Saturday night), I just wanted to get the parts ordered so they'll get here in time. I live in a small town so we have no transmission shops. I'm going to make sure the parts store has an axle and side cover gasket in stock, just in case I can't reuse the stock stuff again.
are you putting in one of these? http://shop.tripleedgeperformance.co...-84754-43K.htm
make sure your harness is in good shape too , Someone told me the harnesses inside the tranny can have issues. But I decided mine looked alright and I was only in there to do the 4th hub anyways. I only changed the tcc and pcs as a precautionary measure.
oh yeah I forgot to mention when you go to put in the 4th hub make sure to pull up on the output shaft while your trying to seat the hub into the sun gear. It wont quite want to go in until I pulled up on the output shaft to center it. you can see it sag a bit because its not connected to the axle. Mine did not slide in but I could feel the splines begin to interlock I ended up having to use a piece of wood and lightly tapping it until I got it seated. Also make sure the thickest clutch plate goes on first. The other two plates are thinner and do not matter which one goes next. If your not planning on pulling the valve body apart and dealing with the check balls etc you can remove specific bolts to allow you to keep the valvebody /channel plate together. I put up a diagram you can use as reference.
if you have access to a small pump. buy some 20ft small clear tubing from home depot. I forgot what size I bought Just make sure it will fit in the tranny dipstick hole. I was able to get out most of the brand new ATF I had just put in because i realized I forgot to reinstall the oil dam and had to take it apart again.
Becareful when you try to get the oil dam out I had a hard time with it.
There is two thrust washers on the channel plate but I think theres also a piece that goes between the 4th hub and the sprocket so don't forget that either.
No, I really hope I can get one of those kits up in Springfield, I have a 4 day weekend this weekend so I have to get it done then. Damn, I wish I saw that before. Thanks for the tips, I really appreciate them and I'll use every one of them! To check the harness I can just check continuity on the wires, right?
I don't mind the new fluid, it'll help flush the transmission.
Yes just find pins to Toccata and check foe continuity. Wiggle harness a little while you do it just in case its intermittant. Dont forget the PC's and shift solenoid on top left of valvebody have to come out to get to two bolts behind them.
Toccata = tcc
Good news, they have a Sonnax TCC valve in stock, so I'll be buying one of them tomorrow. Since I'll have everything off, I'm going to swap in an aluminum oil pan (for the engine) and an aluminum cradle. On a side note, they said that they have a clean valve body they'd sell to me for $30. I'm seriously considering doing it, but I think it'll fall into the "If the PCS doesn't fix the TCC problem, then the next thing I'm going to do is:" category.
I can't remember (cause I've never done it) if the TCC valve needs the VB off the channel to be done. Most of the valves have clips that retain them. It's all a question of which side the clip is on.
The TCC PWM solenoid clip, or is there a clip on the valve itself? It seemed like it'd come right out with my handy magnet on stick.
From what I remember 2000's had a retaining clip so it wouldn't come out on it's own. An 06 I recently was into.. something..probably tcc fell out once the soleniod was removed.
Hmm, I'll have to ask the guys at the transmission shop, they seem to know these rather well. I might just pick up a valve body gasket just in case. On my Ford AOD a few guys recommend running with no valve body gasket, you have any input on that? Being vertical, I'd assume it'd need one.
I've never tried to run w/o it. There's technically two gaskets with a spacer plate.
That's how the AOD is as well, I think I left the top one off, it's been awhile so I can't remember. I'll be using new ones if I need to take the VB off to get tot he valve.
Soooo where's that clip? lol
I'll find out on Saturday for sure, but lemme look through this manual...
I thought it was the boost valve that needed it disassembled?
First round of parts got here, still waiting on the 4th shaft. It looks like they sent 2 different kinds of frictions. A Raybestos and something else. Kinda irritating because it's the same part number, I just had a quantity of 2. Can I still use them even though they are different?
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psfa28e3a3.jpg
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...psc1d2480b.jpg
Steels:
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a3...ps6de9d9ef.jpg
yes you can... to a degree a friction is a friction.
Were you getting a code for the TCC? Is that why you pulled the pin?