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Right that's the correct tool, usually they're needed with smaller sizes since they're easier to strip. As they get larger (15mm+) it takes a bit more abuse with a standard wrench to actually strip them. So you can usually get away with a standard wrench in the larger fittings. I don't know the size off hand for the transmission cooler fittings.
According to the trans shop there is no leaking going on here :th_scratchhead:. I'm thinking the non leak is coming from the axle seal.....any opinions?
Alright so the adapter kit was bust. Looks like imma learn how to use a flare tool on this job. Any pointers? Just a double flare and a clamp at each connection?
Pretty much. It will take a bit to get a full flare in a hose but it can be done.
Why did the adapter idea not go through? I know that means running more line than they supply you with.
The threads were not right. Already bought more hose too. Oh well its never that easy right? BTW is it really necessary to double clamp each connection like I keep reading, or is a single clamp enough with the double flare? You've got the 403 right? Did you ever post any pics of your install?
id use 2 clamps and make sure your using reinforced hose.
truth is id try to avoid the hose clamp method if at all possible. seen a few failures, none turned out good. one car burnt in my driveway. FD was called lol
I see what you are saying, but the cooler only has clamped connections so I'm already having to use some. With a flared end I just can't possibly see the hose pulling off with the clamp but stranger things have happened I'm sure. I bought 3/8 id trans oil hose to use and it looks reinforced (I can see imbedded cord on the ends).
What pisses me off is that leak I posted pics of that the trans shop just can't seem to find when they have it but its plain as day to me.
I highly doubt the hose will ever slip off of a full double flare. Two clamps behind that is pretty much a guarantee it's not coming off, but other things can happen like hoses being torn or damaged.
Sooo using a double flare tool without a work bench and vise is a pita.
You'll be fine lol
http://imageshack.us/a/img713/9306/c95o.jpg
If not use some black rtv on the metal slide the line over it and use fuel injection clamps and you will be fine
Got the flares done last night and the input side to the cooler on and snugged. I need to buy more clamps to finish. I'll take some pics of the setup when I am done which should be this evening. First tool I rented from AZ just pushed the pipe out the back when I was cranking to form the mushroom. Took it back and made them give me a brand new one. The flares were not super straight, but not bad for my first time. I took the line out of the car to work with it because attempting to do it on my back under the car got me covered in ATF. A workbench with a vice would have been nice to hold the tool while I was cranking on it to flare the pipe, but my knee also worked, just a bit more painful.
Hey guys, when I put in my 403, I spliced into the rubber return line and simply used a 3/8" male-to-male brass air line coupler rated for 200psi or something. Each male end had like 3 or 4 barbs on it and I used a hose clamp on each side to secure. Is this a bad idea? Seemed secure and I have been checking for an leaks. The fitting looked like this but had the male, multi flared end on each side (not threaded).
Parker 6-6 B2HF-B Brass Barbed Connector To Male Pipe 3/8" Hose Barb 3/8" Male NPT: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
The napa guy said the fitting it would be fine (which I put maybe 50% faith in), but the packaging said or air use only. Is this thing going to blow apart on me?
It should be fine, that is one of a few options when adding in an aftermarket cooler. Just go back and re-tighten them a few times in the next few months.
Definitely not **** that's what ive had since I bought the Gxp no issuesQuote:
Originally Posted by stocker
I found both ways of splicing it in when I researched and for some reason feel safer with the hose having to pull off over a flare if its going to at all. Probably no difference in reality just my personal preference.
Here are a few pics of the completed installation on my GP. The only thing I ran into when putting back together was the lower air dam. I needed to modify (cut off) part of one of the inner ridges so it would not pinch the lines.
Front off. My five year old came out and asked me why I made my car not look like a car anymore.
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...807_202555.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...807_202654.jpg
Out of the radiator (laying under the car looking up)
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...807_202747.jpg
http://i491.photobucket.com/albums/r...807_202643.jpg
Looks pretty good. I'd wrap those hoses in a sleeve or something to make sure that years of rubbing don't cause a leak. I just wrapped mine in elec. tape for now, I gotta find some of that stuff. There's a bit on the stock return line hose section, as an example.
If you look close I covered the areas that I thought would rub and wrapped the with pieces of the leftover hose that I slit down the middle.
Took it for a drive tonight. Whereas normally it would top out at about 220 it did not break 200. Also the temp would actually go back down which never happened before. All in all I think its worth it.
Next two items on the list are a transgo kit and replacing the turn signal switch because the brights flash on and off over bumps and when I set the cruise control.
Alright update on the shifting issue...one of three things seemed to help. Either it was the battery being disconnected for a week which would have cleared the adapt shift data, or it was the 8oz of Lubegard Red that I added in after I got the car back together, or it was cleaning the throttle body. Gears are holding a little longer and shifts are smooth and quick. Also kicking down a gear seems to require much less throttle input. Trans fluid temps today held under 195 and the ambient temp was 90+, before the aux cooler I have no question I would have seen fluid temps topping out around 220.
Thanks for all the pointers Scotty and Blue. BTW Im on this site alot and so far Parkave your avatar really takes the cake.
Add an option 4, the cooler. The cooler my trans is, the better it performs. That goes for before and after my shift kit install.
When my car was stock, by 200° my shifts were so sloppy it was crazy, max adapt wasn't far away in that scenario.
After just a shift kit install, at 200°, the trans was performing ok, max adapt would never come back I'm sure, but the shifts would still get a bit slow by 215°.
Then after a shift kit and cooler, it wouldn't go above 200°, keeping my trans performing well. If it stayed around 180 which is a typical aftermaket cooler temp, with those two trans mods it always shifts perfect. So, problem solved with those two mods.