Hey guys,
Having Andrew Schnicke build my trans.
What Parts, and clutches should he be putting into my trans, im over 400whp
I burned out 3rd and 4th. Not news to anyone.
Last time i bought the 300m, and 3.29 7/8 gears. So im fairly set there.
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Hey guys,
Having Andrew Schnicke build my trans.
What Parts, and clutches should he be putting into my trans, im over 400whp
I burned out 3rd and 4th. Not news to anyone.
Last time i bought the 300m, and 3.29 7/8 gears. So im fairly set there.
Here is what I'm going to be using for 3rd gear. Provides 50% more clamping force and helps prevent the clutches from burning up. There are other options out there for 3rd gear. Dave @ TEP has a 12 clutch stackup for 3rd gear that does extremely well under the high HP applications. For the very simple modifications I'd sugges modifying 3rd feed hole in the spacer plate, upgraded boost valve in the valve body, and thightening up the tolerance in the clutch stack itself. Take an outer lugged old friction and sand off all the clutch material and put it at the bottom of the stackup as an extra backing plate, and it will really tighten up the 3rd gear clutches.
For my build I'm going with Oversized Boost Valve, Upgraded Booost Valve Assembly, Modified spacer plate, Dave @ TEP's thicker backing plate, Billet 3rd housing and apply piston. Edit: I'll also be running Borg Warner High Energy frictions
As for 4th gear that is all in the tune. There is very little material in that stackup. It doesn't take much to toast them no matter what you do so I would suggest having the car downshift at a much lower load to prevent toasting them.
How much Extra for the the stuff you listed?
Gotta pay to play......$275 would be my ball park guess. But in the grand scheme of a fully built trans it's well worth it IMO. I want the trans to last over a long period of time. Built it right the first time, more expensive up front but pays off big time down the road.
Last edited by GMR Badass; 05-01-2013 at 03:27 PM.
Ive got 3 clutches in my 4th stack-up, also 7 in 2nd, 5 for the inputs, and 12 in 3rd. No waved plates, and Raybestos blues everywhere possible. Plus .080 oil holes and a roller bearing on the melty low thrust washer...
If you've been running on that 7/8ths chain for very long I would just have a new one ready, they stretch in that whp range. Depending on how much you use it and how much weight you dropped, it may need changed yearly.
I agree if you used that chain setup much you might wanna replace the chain do to stretch. Also contact Dave at tep for his valve body upgrades and clutch upgrades.
Best thing is to keep looking for a 1"gmr chain and gear set. When if ever you see one for sale buy it. Same with a torsen diff.
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