As long as it is the same year and engine it will work fine and you wont need to reflash it. If nothing else compare the numbers on the pcm to make sure they match so you know for sure.
|
As long as it is the same year and engine it will work fine and you wont need to reflash it. If nothing else compare the numbers on the pcm to make sure they match so you know for sure.
I got to bring this old thread back up and ask if anyone knows if the PCM did the trick? I have the exact same problems on a 00 Grand Prix and I'm debating on wether or not to try the PCM.I'm assuming the PCM fixed the problem since StockTA never responded for more help.
Just thought it was worth a shot to ask.
Thanks,
James
Im sorry about not updating the status of the PCM fixing my trans problem, I honestly was thinking about that a week or so ago. I actualy went to the salvage yard (LKQ) and picked up two PCM's just incase the one I brought home was dead out of the box. I had this pulled out of the same exact car (year, motor and trans and SE options) I was working on and the PCM bar code#'s matched up so in theory it should have plugged in and fired right up as I was told. Well that did not work, both PCM's I brought home would not start the car so YOU DEFINITLY HAVE TO RE-FLASH the code from your old PCM to your new replacement ($75-$90 for dealer to reflash).
I actually ended up taking apart my PCM and checking the internal circuit board and saw that it was definitly commanding the shift selonoids. That had me digging into the wireing harness once again scratching my head at this problem. I put the car up on a lift and LOL I felt pretty blondeafter I saw a entire other section of burned harness, duh.
The entire time it was the harness section that runs under the ac acumlator where I could not see it from above the motor. This must of been a ground that I missed because I retraced the wiring from pcm all the way into the pass-through connector going into the actual valve body to the shift noids. The pass through connector connections checked out good so if you guys have this problem check that other side of the harness so you dont end up chasing your tail. The only thing is my lock up torqe convertor is not kicking in at overdrive so I need to dig into her and figure out what I missed but It will probably get sold for my best friends GTP. I ended up taking those PCM's back and the 186,000 mile GP S.E. is still getting us to work as of now.
I want to thank trannyman
You saved me on what I thought was a mechanical problem and pointed me in the right direction to solve this. Cost me my time and your knowledge of these so thank you again and everyone on here have a great new year!!!!!!!!!
Josh
OK - Now I've fallen victim to this too... Same Check Engine codes and symptoms.
I was going to start with the fuse, but what fuse and where?
I just turned the heat on in the garage, and will be checking the harness next.
**SOLVED**
Years back when I bought my intercooler from ZZPerformance - they recommended using a 'pink' wire under the fuse box as the power source.
A few months ago; I replaced the crappy bilge pump with a BOSCH unit.
Well.... the Harness ZZP includes was NOT weather sealed. (no rubber grommet) This caused road salt / spray to corrode the connection, and effectively short out / burn off the pump terminals, and blow the TCC fuse.
I disconnected what was left of the pump harness, and replaced the fuse. All is well. Well - except for the IC pump![]()
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |