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11-28-2011
Well..it's not just 90. You clean the threads. The teflon paste the heck outta the arp bolts and bottom them out. Don't follow the turn til they stop instructions if you want the exhaust to fit. lol (I learned the hard way).
Then once the teflon has a little time..I copper sprayed the new gaskets on both sides a good thick couple layers, put them on, head on and then 40...50...60...70...75...80..85..90 ft lb torqued them down.
11-28-2011
What tool is used to put the ARP studs in? Do they have square heads on them?
11-29-2011
Allen key
11-29-2011
Just out of curiosity, what would you do,I've got new heads, going to pull the block as I explained, 150k on it, what smart things should I do with the bottom end while i have it out?
11-29-2011
Nothing beyond gaskets.
Well.. I'd toss in an oil pressure increase kit. Ensure the timing chain is good or new.
11-29-2011
Just thought i would ask you, you seem to be the man around here! You have some awsome write ups, is the LIM mod worth it, and the needle bearings in the SC how do you know when they need to be replaced?
11-29-2011
You'll hear them at idle if they are bad.
LIM mods depend on your goals. If you swap SC's or want to take it off w/o draining coolant.. plugging is worthwhile. Want to keep the rear head cooler? the turn around opening is worthwhile. Smoothing the runners a bit won't ever hurt.
11-29-2011
what is your input on EGR delete?
11-29-2011
ohh, pulling the block, the bottom motor mount, do you unbolt it and pull it out with the block or do you have to leave the mount and unbolt from the block itself?
11-29-2011
I don't block EGR's until an IC goes on, typically.
To pull a motor.. crawl under the car, look at where the motor mount sits in the subframe from underneath. Remove the two 15mm nuts. The mount and bracket will come with the motor.
12-01-2011
Hey Bill! Ive been talking numbers with my local machine shop that did my heads and like i was saying before that my car got hot and cracked my heads! Do you think that I should have them do rings,bearings,cleaning, seals,polishish crank, basically a short block! they quoted 500 plus parts!
12-01-2011
with my stock internals
12-01-2011
I don't know...I've never seen a 3800 get hot enough to crack heads
12-01-2011
1400 fully rebuilt longblock! Parts included! does that seem reasonable?
12-01-2011
Sure..especially considering a used L32 about that much.
12-01-2011
As long as my cam is good, pistons, and dont have to bore!
12-09-2011
Back to the topic on hand, my brother and I pulled the tranny out of his 99 GTP last night, took about 4 hours to get it out once we realized that we had to pull the subframe out, i just now noticed that it was mentioned in the write-up. I think a picture should be added of it, just to help the next poor sucker out that doesn't like to read notes and looks at pictures instead. Hey, a picture is worth a 1000 words, right?
All in all it wasn't to hard of a job, we'll see how the new install goes first though.
12-10-2011
12-12-2011
Reading helps, I even listed socket size.
12-12-2011
I know it does, I really appreciate the work that you did for the right up, especially the picture of where the back tranny bolt was located which was fairly easy to get to with a 3 foot extension.Originally Posted by BillBoost37
We had the tranny loose and ready to drop, that's when we realized that we had to remove the subframe, not to big of a deal. It was harder to get the subframe back in and everthing aligned than anything else. It took us about 4.5 hours to get it out and 6.5 to get it all put back together start to finish.
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