Thread: HELP with LSD

I wouldnt use one, and I wont warranty any of my rebuilt transmissions with one being used either. The ONLY way I would recommend one is if it was a limited use weekend/strip car that didnt get many miles put on it. The problem with the LSD diffs as that they are just modified stock HD differentials but have a lot of side loading/wear behind the side gears in the diff. There are clutches added behind the gears and there is a spring pack in the center of the diff to preload the side gears into the clutches. During normal every day driving any time you turn the steering wheel one wheel will turn at a different speed than the other and this causes wear on the clutches. In a rear wheel drive car the differentials are designed with multiple clutch plates and also have at least 80/90 weight gear lube, auto transmissions have ATF with roughly 7 weight fluid that doesnt stay on the parts like a heavier bodied fluid so this is also working against them. The GM/Torsen style diff would be the best LSD to go with but are very expensive and hard to get. Any of the clutch type modified stock type differentials are just not the best route to go. Also from the wear on the side gears, cross pin, and clutches it will add more debris in the trans fluid. My advise is to use the stock diff or take out a small loan for a GM racing unit lol.

Originally Posted by Trannyman95

I wouldnt use one, and I wont warranty any of my rebuilt transmissions with one being used either. The ONLY way I would recommend one is if it was a limited use weekend/strip car that didnt get many miles put on it. The problem with the LSD diffs as that they are just modified stock HD differentials but have a lot of side loading/wear behind the side gears in the diff. There are clutches added behind the gears and there is a spring pack in the center of the diff to preload the side gears into the clutches. During normal every day driving any time you turn the steering wheel one wheel will turn at a different speed than the other and this causes wear on the clutches. In a rear wheel drive car the differentials are designed with multiple clutch plates and also have at least 80/90 weight gear lube, auto transmissions have ATF with roughly 7 weight fluid that doesnt stay on the parts like a heavier bodied fluid so this is also working against them. The GM/Torsen style diff would be the best LSD to go with but are very expensive and hard to get. Any of the clutch type modified stock type differentials are just not the best route to go. Also from the wear on the side gears, cross pin, and clutches it will add more debris in the trans fluid. My advise is to use the stock diff or take out a small loan for a GM racing unit lol.

amen.

This man speaks the truth. Just stick with stock...its a sure deal. You start playing with them...it winds up costing you much more in the long run. I agree with your quote above 100%.

As for the "diff. squirter" its just really installed as a way to keep pressurized fluid volume on the diff. while spinning during a burn out...but it stays on all the time, which is a nice thing too, keeps parts cooler if a "one wheel Charlie" decides to happen.

What I don't like about the way ZZP went with their design of the squirter. Installed it internally, which is nice, avoids some problems, but how they plumbed in the squirter's main feed line to a stock hard line...being brazed on like that...I don't feel comfortable with that myself.

I would do mine externally, running the line from the pressure test port on the top of the transmission, where we all connect our temperature gauge sender, running the line down the back side of the tranny, and tapping into the back side of the diff. cover. Of course it would all be high pressure AN lines and fittings used no question about that.

Thats just me though.

~F~