could a bad battery or bad connection cause guage and driveabiliy problema? the power loss comes and goes and is smooth like like extra load on engine.
|
could a bad battery or bad connection cause guage and driveabiliy problema? the power loss comes and goes and is smooth like like extra load on engine.
I've seen gauges fail because of a loose connection to the PCM. Grounding is a concern, possibly the ignition control module, or camshaft position sensor. For what it's worth, I'd recommend cleaning the throttlebody, maf sensor, checking the intake air filter, and scanning for codes.
How many miles on the car? Recent maintenance? When throttle response decreases, are the RPMs still increasing?
100,000 miles, new 605 gapped .058 fwi 180tstat. Watch the scan gauge today power cuts off at 3500rpms boost fluctuates about 2 - 4psi. get 8.9 psi at 6000 rpms. Still has some get up when wot. -21 psi of vacuum at idle. Maf was reading max about 240 GPS. Any thoughts still experiencing this loss at 3500 rpms. Also have occasional 2 misfires max on cyl 3 4 2 during a rapid deaccell. They go away immediately. And yes rpms still increase when throttle responds decreases.
Checked the gauge again this morning on the way to work I had 9.9 psi boost and no power loss. Was a short sample time but engine was at 180*. What would cause 1 psi difference in boost. Maybe heat is effecting something. Boost didnt fluctuate either at 3500.
Found gauge problem bad ground connection at battery. With only 100,000 miles on the car do you think the tb would really be that dirty? The loss of throttle responce is definitely related to heat but we havnt had weather hottter then 75*. Does heat reduce boost?? Does someone know an article to help me understand what might be going on. I have also relocated the I at to where my intake sucks in air rather then at maf. Would this be incorrect? Having tranny flushed on the 3rd can a transmission cause problems like this with original tran fld?
I have the gauge problem, it is either a bad connection like you said, or in my case and some others, a bad and/or corroded ignition switch. Ignore it unless it becomes consistent.
Never flush a transmission. Some people will say there are exceptions, but even if there are, the safest thing to do is to drop the tranny pan which will drain almost half of the old fluid out, replace the filter, and refill with clean fluid. 97-03 should use a Dexron III equivalent, 04+ either Dex III or VI if you'd like to try it at your own risk. The Dex VI actually lowered my 05's tranny temps a bit.
Get a Transgo shift kit if it slams between gears. It's a bandaid fix, but it will prolong the life of the transmission either way and will usually get rid of violent gear shifts. The usual culprit is the PCS solenoid, but it's located behind the side cover and costs a lot in labor. Only worth it as a DIY project.
I also have the occasional power loss. A restart fixes it every time. I'm almost certain at this point that it's transmission related, as in that stupid PCS solenoid.
« Previous Thread | Next Thread » |
Tags for this Thread |