Thread: Spyder Projector Lights

For bouncing issues, put a strip of weather stripping underneath each headlight.

When it comes to light output, just get a set of HIDs from VVME. Go with 4300 or 5k as those will be the brightest. Dont worry about getting high beams with HIDs, the single beam will be plenty bright.

The majority of people on this forum run either VVME or DDM. Both are good HIDs but the issue with DDM, is the shipping is horrendous - takes forever. A lot of people also run Ebay HIDs such as Xentec, but those are hit or miss. Some people have good luck with those, while me, on the other hand, have gone through 3 sets and finally gave up. I currently have VVME 6k headlights on my Spyder projectors and foglights and they are very bright with no issues. No light output issues either. Well worth the money. I've always stuck with 35w HIDs as those are plenty bright and I believe 55w is overkill. I've had both single beam and high beam headlights. Don't even bother with the high beam HIDs - not worth it. Just buy the normal 12v 35w single beam HIDs from VVME and you'll thank me later.

Keep in mind, the lower the Kelvin number the brighter they are. (Besides 3K as those are yellow). 4300k will be the brightest while 10k+ makes it look like you're driving underwater. Get some where inbetween 4300k and 6k for color temperature.

As I stated earlier about the weather stripping under each headlight. It will obviously changed the projector angle (upwards), just a bit, so keep that mind. And it won't totally cure the bouncy issue but it will make a huge difference.

I use to own these and ended up going back to stock. They were ok in terms of functionality. The highs can not be adjusted separately. Adjust them for the lows and be done with it. Don't even try to adjust for the beams crossing. If you do, you will end up with gaps. I found the high beams to be worthless and did not even bother with them. If you want to take advantage of the light output of these, get some 5000K HIDs. There are many ways to limit the bouncing. I never got rid of mine after all of the mods to it. Be sure to not over tighten the bracket. They are not the same as the stock bracket.

Same^^ I had some spyders for about 3 weeks before I took them out. I couldnt run HID in them without "hotspot" and my cutoffs were at like a 20* angle which made them worthless at night. I put my stock back in and I'm now running 55w 8000k HID.

But that kills the lifespan of your ballasts. Because you can't keep your highs in all the time to keep the bulbs warm. So they always have to re warm up when you turn them off for a passing car. Also flashing high beams would be useless. I have vvmes and had to replace a ballast because salt spray go in it and shorted it out. If I did it again I would got with DD or TRS if I ever get projectors which probably wont happen.

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