Thread: Projector General Info (Aiming, PL flash, High/Low, Pics, etc.)

Two weeks left on group buy pricing (ends this month). I have received my black projectors and they are very high quality. I have not installed them yet as I want to mod mine, but I have to get the balls to try to remove the outer lens first. Anyways, contact info first.

John Lee
SpyderAuto.com
881 South Azusa Ave
City of Industry, CA 91748
(626)934-8884 ext 185

Projectors are available for ordering NOW

Black and Chrome are in stock.
9005 and H1 halogen bulbs are included

Black & Chrome Group Buy Pricing: $350 ($450 with 8000k H1 HIDs) shipped in the USA / $370 Canada. / Elsewhere, contact me first.

Payments accepted: PayPal (preferred!!) and Credit Card.

PayPal address: John@Spyderauto.com
-Please provide shipping address and Color Projector.

Credit Card:

Fax info to (626)934.8885 / Call Mon-Fri 930am-530pm pst 626-934-8884 xt 185

-Need following information:

Full name
Billing & Shipping Adresses
Credit Card Number, Expiration Date, & Cvc Code
Phone Number
Color Projector You want.

I am by no means an expert when it comes to Projectors, wiring, etc. I will answer the best I can with others info I have picked up here and CGP. I personally plan to run H1 HIDs and 9005 Halogens, halos will be wired into the PL, low beams will stay on with high beams, alarm flash will be parking lights no headlights.

Here goes, I will try to credit the members originally posting this info.

Parking Light Flash
Parking lights alarm flash, for those with HIDs: (BackInBlack)

Modification to re-route the acknowledgement headlamp flashes from the theft deterrant relay to the parking lights...

This should do it: (Disconnect battery before performing surgery on the car!)

1) Find the theft deterrant relay in the driver's side kick panel. It will have 1 or 2 orange wires, a white wire, and a YELLOW wire in the harness.

2) Cut the yellow wire, and splice it into the BROWN wire at the headlamp switch. (See diagram below)

3) Tape up the YELLOW wire that runs back into the body harness. When the headlights are on, this wire will become live, and we don't want it shorting out and causing a fire. Also be sure your splice is insulated as well.

The YELLOW wire is located on the connector in the driver's kick panel for the theft deterrant relay. (I can't show you pics, because I do not have this relay in my car.)

The BROWN wire is at the headlamp switch connector, pin R.

Do not cut any yellow wires in the headlamp switch harness.

That should do it! Since the parking lights are isolated by the relay contacts, no isolation diodes are necessary.

Updated 1997-1999


2001-2003

Cut the WHITE wire at pin D11 on the BCM. Insulate the car side. Tie the BCM side of the wire to one side of a standard 30A 12v automotive relay coil. Tie the other side of the coil to the NO contact of the relay AND the ORANGE wire at pin O on the headlamp switch. Tie the common (COM) of the relay contact to the BROWN wire at pin R on the headlamp switch. Bridge across the relay coil with a 1N4004 diode to protect the BCM output. The stripe side of the diode is oriented towards the ORANGE headlamp wire.


Updated 2001-2003

This modification modifies your cars wiring to reroute the stock keyless entry headlamp flash to the parking lamps instead. This will help save your HID ballasts as well. Parts required: 30A 12vdc automotive cube relay 1N4004 Diode Wire Disconnect negative battery terminal. Locate the white wire at location C11 in the BCM harness. Cut it and insulate the vehicle side. Tie this wire to pin 86 of a generic 12v automotive cube relay. Bridge pins 85 and 86 with a suppression diode to protect the BCM. Tie pin 30 to the brown wire R in the headlamp switch harness. Tie pins 85 and 87 together and tap them into the orange wire O in the headlamp switch harness.

Highs/Lows On At The Same Time
Highs(9005)/Lows(HIDs) On Simultaneously (Chunkee)

No pictures for now, just some wiring insight

For those who choose to do HID lows and HID highs, very simple

Run one set of ballasts for low beams with a wiring (relay) harness connected to the OEM headlight connector so DRL's will work (this allows the correct voltage to get to the headlights without killing the ballasts with low voltage). Use one side (passenger or driver) for this. I am using Bi-Xenon wiring harness for lows (more on that in a sec)

Run second set of ballasts for high beams off the OEM headlight connector (on the other side not used for low beams) by swapping the wires in the wiring harness (on mine it goes red, black, blue. Swap the red and blue around so low is high and high is low)

By using the bi-xenon wiring harness you can have both lows and highs on at the same time

Also, using the bi-xenon wiring harness allows for both low and high HID lights to be on at the same time because that is the way the Bi-Xenons work...all it does is trigger the magnet part to move, unhook that connector for the magnet and low or high position results in lows always being on. Wire in another harness for just the highs and low = low and high = low and highs at same time, just remember to swap the low and high beam wires in the high beam OEM adapter or low = low and highs and high = low

Harness: Ebay:
hid wiring harness, Parts Accessories, Car Electronics items on eBay.com

I guess you could always just use both the low and the high beam wires off the OEM adapter (green and oarnge-brown) for the lows that way the turn-on signal the wiring harness gets will shift from low to high when highs are turned on. I just do not know if the bulbs will turn off then on again in that scenario (like if you were to hold the high beams on, there is a pause sometimes when switching between low and high) then use just the high beam wire for the high beam HIDs.

(Mike Levy) If you don't run the harness to feed the lights from the battery, you are going to have times when one doesn't ignite or stay lit. The factory wiring isn't thick enough to provide the power needed to light and keep them both on, unless conditions are perfect.

(Chunkee) Plus when your DRL's are on, that is a lower voltage and will destroy a ballast before you know it.

Always use harnesses

High(9005)/Low(HIDs) on Simultaneously (99 Black GT)

this is a VERY basic drawing. You would need a relay for each headlight (technically you could get away with only using one, but i wouldn't) It's best to pick up a relay socket, and put an electrically conductive grease on it so it doesn't corrode. And then i run NEW wires, from the fuse block, to make sure i get full voltage to the HID's (much like the SUV harnesses)

on the relay it'self, the connections would be as follows

85:: Ground
86:: Diode isolated Low + High wires together
30:: To the HID ballast
87:: From the fused +12 you get from your fuse box

relays are cheap, the diodes wouldn't have to be any more than a 1 amp rectifier diode (cheap) and enough wire for new grounds and getting power from the fuse box. The new harness could probably be done for under $15 for the pair of headlights. Or less if you're a good shopper.



Another Possibility
High/Low, flash to pass. (BackInBlack)

The diagram below is for use with underhood relay harness only, or the HID low/ halogen high 9007-2 setup. Forest fires may result from using this mod with halogen bulbs installed on stock wiring.

9007-1: Single HID burner.
9007-2: Single HID burner w/ halogen high.
9007-3: Single HID burner w/ tilt or retracting action for high mode.
9007-4: DUAL HID burner (Bi-Xenon) one for low, one for high.

There is a solution that will turn the lows and highs on at the same time, but also make it so the 'flash to pass' will only turn on the highs. Just follow this wiring diagram by BackInBlack.


How are the new projector housings wired? Are there SEPARATE ground wires for the highs and lows? If there is only one ground, you should NOT have the high beams and low beams on at the same time unless the ground wire is 10AWG or better and the connections are rated for such.

**Again, I can not vouch for the above info. Provided info is for use with H1 HIDs in projectors.**

Alignment of Projectors

8mm Bolt, height adjustment


Left/Right adjustment (Preotic)


To align the projectors correctly first you need to:

1) Measure from the ground to little dot on the lens in front of projector.
2) Subtract 2.5 inches off that measurement, then make a mark on the wall. That you're going to be aligning your headlights with.
3) Put your car 25 feet away from the wall trying to get as perpendicular to wall as possible and on level ground.
4) Adjust the headlight so that the _______/ of the cut-off is level with your mark on the wall. And thats it for the height

For the width you measure from the middle of one projector to the other side. Take that measurement and get the step up on the cut-off 3-4 foot away from the other.

I could only get mine 2.5 feet away from each other before the gap between the center of the car and the corner of the headlight became too big.

USE DIAGRAM C


Revised showing measuring points


Another Diagram


Another Aiming Source
http://www.coolbulbs.com/HID-VISUAL-...-PROCEDURE.pdf

A more indepth website for adjusting your headlights.
Automotive lighting FAQ - Headlamp aiming

**The design of our headlights were not meant for projectors so some of the measurements and alignment may be slightly off and is just a guidline. Adjust to your content.**

General Info:

1) Before installing let temperature equalize. Install in as dry and warm of a location as possible to avoid moisture in the projectors.

2) Make sure you have both tabs on the back of the headlights inserted properly in the slots.

3) Make sure metal supports on your car are evenly space. At least one member found his were uneven.



4) These are intended to be used with halogen bulbs, not HIDs. Use of them immediately voids manufacturers warranty.

5) It is possible not all H1 HID kits will fit without minor modification.

6) If you have an existing kit you can just buy an H1 HID bulb to replace the 9007 HID bulb. W-body Store, etc. specifically is selling just bulbs for this reason now.

7) If you don't like the Egg Yolk stock turn/PL bulbs you can replace them with the stealth bulbs or my preferrence of LED switchbacks.
LED switchbacks for turn signal
3157 Tail Light Brake Light Turn Signal LED Bulbs

8) Stock low beam H1 and high beam 9005 halogen bulbs are included.

9) Make sure all mounts, brackets, etc. are tight before install. It is possible to get bounce out of these if not. May anyways, as with stock. Try re-installing, adjusting, assisst if necessary.

10) GTS and Auto Ventshade headlight covers do not fit on these lights due to the "bubble". I will be trying to remedy this on my own set.

11) I am in no way associated with SpyderAuto, other than as a customer and helping John when I can.

12) I will add any additional thoughts/info as it becomes available.

If any member who's GP is pictured would like it removed let me know.

amazing post. very informative! thanks jason... this helps alot! rep!

I did some updated drawings in the "upgrades" tab at clubgp. You might want to use those diagrams instead of my showing off my ms-paint skills, or lack thereof...

amazing post. very informative! thanks jason... this helps alot! rep!

Thanks! Glad I could help.

I did some updated drawings in the "upgrades" tab at clubgp. You might want to use those diagrams instead of my showing off my ms-paint skills, or lack thereof...

I was hoping you would jump in. You have been my main source of info throughout the years when it comes to things like this.

I added the updated info above instead of deleting it as some may find one diagram easier over another. Thanks for letting me know.

Originally Posted by rocket69GTP

Does anyone have a thorough write up on how to do the halo's for the projectors? Just want to get this right the first time and not screw anything up. Thanks!!!

Halos are a personalized choice. All it is is a positive and negative. At least half a dozen ways to hook them up. Depends on how you want them to work. With PL, fogs, DRLs, blinkers, etc. I'd use connectors that can be unhooked so you can easily remove the headlights.

necropost... anyway, weather stripping underneath housing works