Thread: DIY Polishing??

Anyone ever polish there S/C case thenselves? If so, what tools did you use, how long did it take? Thanks...

Yeah, its definitely going to need mechanical sanding. Ive done small things before and its time consuming by hand. So you would need air tools I would think and some different grades of sand paper or rolls, etc.

Then you will need the polishing stuff. Lowes does sell a fairly good selection of polishing stuff. The pads and so forth for a bench grinder and the polishing compounds as well.

A long time ago I worked as an electronics tech for a shop that specialized in boat propellers. I did all the electrical wiring and electronics repair, trolling motor repair etc. Well when it was slow Id volunteer to help polish the stainless steel propellers after they had been repaired. They had a bench grinder on a stand with some rather large polishing and buffing wheels and while you could get a very beautiful shine on those things there was the danger of the prop being pulled out of your hand and slicing you or re-damaging the prop.

But even with that equipment, I would say it still took a good 30 - 45 to do a stainless steel prop.

I would say that with a blower you are easily looking at days of work. With your schedule I can imagine it being a lot longer.

Yeah, it ain't gonna be easy. If I had time, i'd send off the S/C to polish, I just don't want the car down for 3 weeks (thats just counting w/o the S/C, not counting having the time to reinstall it), I like driving it when I can.

Even if you had all day from the time you got up to the time you went to bed, I dont see it being able to be done in that time even with power tools. I really think, based on my attempts at polishing stuff, that if you wanted to do it right you could be looking at a couple of days easy if not longer.

Tools used:

Hand, air drill.
Sand paper drums, depending on the project what grit to start at.

Start with a rough grit, and work your way to the finest grit you can get. You spend enough time on the sanding, polishing is easy. BUT, if you miss some spots, or mess up sanding, the polishing will show any and all flaws you leave behind.

BIG buffer for the parts it can reach. Were talking like a 12" pad, and a VERY high RPM buffer, 12K RPM's about. What ever that cant reach, then you do with the hand air drill, and the mini pad buffers, and lots and lots of rubbing compound.

Professionally done, your looking at 18 - 20 odd some hours start to finish for a M90.

I get many in, where they started the DIY project, then gave up and sent it on in. Some had a good start, others looked like they were drug down a gravel road. But I make them all shine like chrome, no matter how bad, or how screwed up. Though I am not the fastest at turn around time, I make up for it in quality. But I have access to a shop that can do it, but not very well, for sure in less than a few weeks, but do you really want to spend $1,100.00 on a B+ finish? Thats why I use the shop I use.

~F~

Without a doubt, you and greenbastard does the best polishing work. I'm very impessed with the quailty.

Dumb question, how much does it cost to ship a complete M90? That can't be cheap, i'm thinking $75?

Also, on the polished piece, what kind of upkeep is needed? Do they ever dull needing repolishing?

To ship a complete M90 insured for full replacement value, its right around $65.00 never more. I insure it for full replacement value when ever I ship them. They always arrive safe and sound, and when they see the claim value, they tend to treat them much-much nicer. I always try to ship UPS, as FedEx tends to F-up more than anybody persionally.

Upkeep, With the ones I do slim to none. Reason being, is if I am doing the disassembly and reassembly, the cleaner I created/developed I use after its been polished to remove any and all polishing compound, and buffing pad material actually SEALS the aluminum. So good in fact, it beads water if it ever gets wet.

I give my personal M90 on my car a quick 5 minute touch up before a show. Thats about it.

The GF's M90 is on a daily driver 24/7. Currently right now her engine bay is filthy with road salt, and crud from the winter months we have been having. In fact, she has the little white specks of mineral/corrosion build up on her under hood aluminum parts that are exposed right now. Those parts that I have treated wash off with soap and water. Such as her M90. The others, transmission, alternator for example take a little more work to get them clean again.

Road tested in real life, so I have true to the story R&D done to my blowers, and their finish. I do this so the facts I say are indeed facts, and not just claims.

I buy a lot of my sanding and buffing bits from Enco - Guaranteed Lowest Prices on Machinery, Tools and Shop Supplies

~F~