Thread: Current Project- Lots O' pics

Originally Posted by BlackGS

Nice work! Is that the ZZP SFI balancer painted black, or something else? When you installed the oil neck spacer, did you use a gasket on each side? Just curious as I'm trying to put together my parts list.

thanks- that is the oversized balancer from zzp- just painted black like you said. Also, we just used one gasket for the spacer :
ZZ Performance

Originally Posted by TDCRacing

Looks almost like an H-body ballancer.


What kind of cam you got going in there? What timing chain and springs did you and up doing?

I kept the VS cam in there from my supercharged setup- since it is somewhere between the ST1 and ST2 cams. I have a new stock chain with crow cam 105# springs from intense.

Is there any reason you did not go with a bigger cam? The reason I ask is because i'm trying to do go with a bigger cam because of my heads. But I'm kind of held back with the issues that are going on with the double rollers. Was thinking of going with a ST3 cam with 105 springs but was not sure of the valve float issues that i may have.I had an XP with 105's and did not have any issues that I know of. But was not sure if being that I am turbo it would matter.

Originally Posted by TDCRacing

Is there any reason you did not go with a bigger cam? The reason I ask is because i'm trying to do go with a bigger cam because of my heads. But I'm kind of held back with the issues that are going on with the double rollers. Was thinking of going with a ST3 cam with 105 springs but was not sure of the valve float issues that i may have.I had an XP with 105's and did not have any issues that I know of. But was not sure if being that I am turbo it would matter.

absolutely!
This is my DD, I didn't want to disable the balance shaft because it makes for a slightly rougher idle. Bigger cams require stiffer springs- like the 150lb springs. Remember, the turbo does most of the work. We have lots of guys running 1.9 rockers and 90lb springs and making it into the low 12's and high 11's. An ST3 cam though, would require some stiffer springs since you will be shifting well north of 6000 rpm. 150lb springs would do you much better.

VERY CLEAN!!!!!!!!!! you could eat off that motor!!! well done!

Pimp, what paint did you use on everything? Was that just good ole high temp engine paint or did you have things powder coated?

Originally Posted by TDCRacing

Thanks for you're input.


If you don't mind me taking over you're thread for another second I would appreciate it lol.


What is you're opinion on the Rollmaster's if the Chamfer is set up properly? Becuase that is the only option I have right now. With the issues with the jp's I would personally not feel comfortable going with them. I would like to go with 130 or 150's but this is my only dellima. I don't have a problem taking the gear off for the ballance shaft. This will be my DD but I realy don't care about a rough idle or anything else for that matter.


BTW did you get a GMR chain for you're tranny? What's you're goals with the build. Almost running yet?

I am pretty sure the newer rollmasters are okay. If you dont want to run a super stiff spring.....comp is releasing a new 125lb spring for the LS1- which fits our cars. I am getting a built transmission from 3EP and will get nothing less than a 1" chain. My goals for the car is to ET 11.5 and to trap 125 while still maintaining daily drivability.

On to a more sour note: I tried starting the car up last night and it would start, but cut off 3 seconds later. The security light would flash while this would happen. My buddy pulled a code from the PCM- something to do with the crank position sensor. The car was idling really high for the little time that it ran. Fuel pressure looked fine and oil pressure looks fine as well. Security relearn? anyone have any ideas? I have one more pic from last night- I was too dejected to shoot away.

Originally Posted by SyntheticShield

Pimp, what paint did you use on everything? Was that just good ole high temp engine paint or did you have things powder coated?

It is some good ol' high temp paint on the block. The blower and valve covers have high temp paint and high temp ceramic. The blower's lines were grinded in the case using a flapper wheel!

this is the last pics i'll post until I get this car running. If anyone has any ideas (see above post) please say so...
I know I need new wire separators!

What more do you need to get it running? It looks like its all together to me.

What made you decide not to go intercooler?

It may be me or the angle but that upper radiator hose looks awful close to thing that get really hot. Might be worth protecting it with something.

Heres what I have on the security relearn. Dont ask me how accurate it is or anything like that as I have not had to use it.




Powertrain Control Module Security Relearn Procedure

On some vehicles (Bonneville, Regal, Impala SS, Monte Carlo SS, and 2004+ Grand Prix) it will be necessary to perform this Security Relearn Procedure before the car can be started. No tools are required to complete this procedure and it can be accomplished 30 to 45 minutes after the PCM is initially installed. You must complete the procedure without opening any of the vehicle doors or trunk. It's best to open the drivers window and reach inside the vehicle to complete the learn procedure.

For Bonneville, Regal, Impala, and Monte Carlo vehicles 1997-2004 and Cobalt, ION 2004-2006:

1. Set the parking brake to disable the daytime running lights system to avoid draining the vehicles battery.
2. Try to start the vehicle by turning the key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key). Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale on the dashboard or driver information center. After approximately ten minutes it should turn off for the first time.
4. Turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
5. Try to start the vehicle by turning the key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key). Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
6. Observe the SECURITY telltale on the dashboard or driver information center. After approximately ten minutes it should turn off for the first time.
7. Turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
8. Try to start the vehicle by turning the key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key). Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
9. Observe the SECURITY telltale on the dashboard or driver information center. After approximately ten minutes it should turn off for the first time.
10. Turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
11. Start the vehicle.

For 2004 Grand Prix only:

1. Set the parking brake to disable the daytime running lights system to avoid draining the vehicles battery.
2. Try to start the vehicle by turning key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key).
3. Observe the SECURITY telltale on the driver information center. Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
4. After no less than fifteen minutes turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
5. Try to start the vehicle by turning key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key).
6. Observe the SECURITY telltale on the driver information center. Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
7. After no less than fifteen minutes turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
8. Try to start the vehicle by turning key to the START position (using a Master Pass-Key key, not a Valet key).
9. Observe the SECURITY telltale on the driver information center. Allow the key to fall back into the ON position. DO NOT TURN THE KEY TO THE OFF POSITION.
10. After no less than fifteen minutes turn OFF the ignition and wait for ten seconds.
11. Start the vehicle.

Crap, I just ready about the problem you had starting it. Are you sure it is a case learn problem?

Could it be the crank position sensor itself?

Thanks for all the responses guys. I need as much input as I can get. The radiator hose is fine- the angle of the pic makes it look much closer than it is. The car will be intercooled. I have the TR10 radiator and the mild steel piping. We just need to mount everything. We really just wanted to get the car started first. The more I read- the more it sounds like it could be a security relearn issue. Im not sure about the high idle though. Perhaps after the car runs for a while it will settle down. My car is at my buddies house, but he is out with the flu. I told him to rest and not touch the car. Health first. In the meantime, I'm trying to get as much feedback as possible.

It could need a case learn- but it didn't throw a code for that. It threw a code for the crank position sensor, the boost bypass valve, and the egr.

dam nice real nice

Check your IAC count when you start it, and tell us what it is.

Ok- i'll check it out as soon as he is able to work on the car.