I haven't been here in a while but let me break it down to you.
We've already built two of these !(Well we're talking one around 500whp and another in the 600whp range, I'm going to give you the 600whp break down)
First thing is first :
Use as STOCK L26 with low miles,
Why stock l26? And what cars can I find an L26 in?? I figured you would say l32 becuase of the stronger rods. But then again as I understand it no one has ever broke any 3800 rod in any build.
Next, the stattama turbo kit is okay, BUT and this is a big but ! The 2.5" charge tubing is going to be holding you back, not because it's a huge restriction, but because the way your MAF is going to read. It's easier and IMO better to tune with 3" IC piping, and espeically at boost levels you're going to need (18 PSI on an L26, not sure on an 8.0:1 but most likely in the 22-25 range)
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So you're saying about 18psi will net me around 500-600 hp?I am very suprised that the i/c kit comes with 2.5'' piping. I was thinking at least 3.5''. I have a place that can custon manderal bend up to like 5'' I belive. I plan on having It set up with a passengerside throttle body in hopes to make the install a little cleaner and make things a little easier to work on. I plan on doing this with the stattama l67 sheet metal intake.almost 800.00 dollars is rediculas for intercooling piping.I can do it for a 1/3 of that max. Would you recomend going with the full size from stattama or Is there a better one else where?
I would order everything but the charge piping and IC and have it made custom and 3". I'm sure if you E-mailed Matt M he could hook that up for you anyway. Personally I think going to a bigger ball bearing turbo is a better idea than the T67, because it does spool so well there are driveability issues on the street (Especially highway pulls ! Yay car jumping 3 lanes !!!)
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I'll consider that. Wouldnt the bigger turbo and ball bearing be about the same as a non ball bearing t67?
That stage 4 Intense Cam is actually pretty good IMO, IS3 blower camshaft actually works VERY well with a turbo set up on lots of boost as well, but Tim king Proves that IS4TC is very good indeed ! !
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Awesome
THE HEADS ! I CAN NOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH !!!!! "extremely aggresive does not mean GOOD Just because your intake and exhaust ports are large doesn't meant that they're any more efficent. Let someone experience deal with the heads, ALSO get them you port your L36/L26 LIM (which you'll also be using) to match up to the inlet on the heads. Not sure what head gaskets you plan on running but people like the Fel-Pro's here. Although I'm the only one using them I like MLS myself !
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I planned on the mls also. You say most people are using stock thickness felpro's?
I personalyl recomend Canadian Cylinder head tech.
Canadian Cylinder Head
They have done amazing stuff on our heads, and all the fastest cars here use them.
Forget that fuel system. Get a Racetronix pump, re-wire and 66# Disc injectors. Our cars DO NOT like the siemens 60's even though everyone uses them. The Disc injector is superior in every way for our application. PRJ can get you all of that.
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Ok cool
Transmission let's break it down here :
You need a GM racing chain
Zpack clutchs etc.. etc..
You'll also need a billet Flexplate and a good converter.(Cracking a flexplate everytime you tune a car is very annoying !)
Although no one here is running one, I strongly suggest an LSD just to help with the retarded amount of torque steer you're going to have !!!
Get a 3K stall, anything higer is annoying on the street IMO.
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Please explain why our flex plates crake this often?? 3000 stall is what I was planning on.And the flex plate is in order also
The problem now becomes that even with a shift kit that the transmission isn't holding enough pressure and will tend to pop out of 3rd gear. You need to drill out the passages in the vavle body just like a GM racing transmission, and get rid of a shift kit and just let the tranny use as much pressure as possible.
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My tranny already has all of the above.I was talking to Dave and he mentioned this problem that occasionally happens. He is in the process of doing something with the 3rd clutches to fix this problem without maxing out pressure by doing valve body madifications.He says an eta is a cupple of weeks. Way before this build will be done.
PS. 22 PSi on stock L26 is fine as long as you're running Meth. I wouldn't go past 18psi without meth. Remeber for the cost of building 1 3800, you can buy 3-5 blocks, and by then you should have the damn tune figured out
Actually you shouldn't blow if the tune is good.
Oh also ditch the oil pressure kit, it doesn't really do anything helpful.
EDIT: You don't have suspention listed ? and tires ?
With all that HP on the street you'll want a nice light rim so you're not stressing your inputshaft/chain and axles, and something with decent sized tires on it. Tire choice is up to you, but pick wisely or else the car is just going to spinn everywhere... even at 75mph
traction bars - buy them. Do not argue.
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I planned on a custom traction bar setup that is hidden by the license plate while driving on the street,I planned on the biggest widest tire I could fit.I didnt realize there was TOO much a lighter tire on the market.I already have the 5 star aluminum.Would some prostars be a better choice or some draglites?
Originally Posted by Street Wolf
