put the 3.4 pulley on and bring it to Tune Time, problem solved
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timing and boost go hand in hand, but some people like the feeling of different setups. i am a fan of high boost and i always will be. timing is the cheap and easy way to make more power. that being said, i think you should drop to the 3.5 and tune the crap out of your car and im sure youll fall in love all over again. until the next time you think you want to drop a pulley and you have that **** eating grin on your face again. i wouldnt run much more than 18* of timing WOT for a car on the street because with that much timing youll be very lucky to survive a decent knock event, but the same would go for boost as well. you have to tune conservatively for a car you want to run for a long time. just run it a little fat (rich) with a decent amount of timing and then put whatever pulley you can run on the car without it knocking.
that is my two cents.
a smaller pulley aint cheap and easy power????
a 3.5 is one size smaller than the 3.6. he already has the 3.6. the boost difference is barely going to be noticeable if any.
if anything, take a few different pullies with you when you go get it tuned. see what works the best...
hell, if you really wanted to feel what the 3.6 feels like run some race gas in it and see whats up. but then you gotta press the 3.8 back on if its a press on.....
NO the older models are lighter. Actually about every 5 years they get heavier and bigger. An 85 CRX weighs about 1900 lbs. I have a 1991 Honda CRX full interior with me in the car weighs 2100. My friends ek hatchback (96-00) weighs in at around 2300. An eg coupe is at around 2400lbs. They cars all vary in weight, but none older than 00 are guranteed to be around the 3's sorry, and all the blocks d, b, k, and h series are all aluminum blocks. I would assume and ek coupe (2000 Civic SI) with a k swap would be around 2500 lbs. By the way a miata maybe smaller than a civic, but a miata is a convertible and it reinforced with alot stuff to stiffen the chasis of the car. Either way this is getting away from the point of this race.
no i didnt. i had an L67 block, but running a certain amount of boost shouldnt matter. so long as you dont let it detonate then youre money. thats why you either run a conservative tune and have your car last forever, or you run a borderline crack addicted tune and your car is faster than **** until one day with cold weather where you get a knock spike and blow a bank of pistons away. its all in the tune.
you have headers, rockers and an intake a 3.4 pulley is all you need with Matts tune. jeffs car runs a 3.4, my old L36 ran a 3.4 and i went 13.0 and trapped 104mph all day at the track rental. you really think a 3.6 with 2 extra degrees of timing is going to matter? man up, buy a used 3.4 pulley from zzp and come down to the shop
all these cars need is a good tune and a good 60 foot time. i laugh at all the fools on clubgp spending money on AFC's and ICCU's and flux capacitors...rockers, plog, pulley tune and DP and i was almost in the 12's on a street tire, you dont even see cammed cars running that on the forums
the short stack's pump stopped working at the track, so i unplugged it pulled 2 degrees of timing and ran the car. the meth was just installed this year. any other questions pasquale?
the meth was installed 2010 but yet you talked about it early last year how the short stack sucked and the meth was so much better....
your story sure does contridict itself alot....
im just saying.
you aint gotta lie to kick it.
the short stack did suck, the pumps were unreliable and because it wasnt cut straight from ZZP it caused me to blow cylinder 4. the meth kit was just installed this past fall and tuned and i put 300 wtq down, what does your car do? you really want to turn this thread into trash?
the meth was installed this past fall, but you said it was installed this year...................
contridicting yourself again...........
again, you aint gotta lie to kick it
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