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Do you have individual readouts for the tire pressure on the DIC? If you do then you will need the stems that can do TPMS and yes programming it to the car, if you really have to have it, otherwise you can just ride with the warning light on. If you don't have the readouts on the DIC, then it is detected by hub and you don't need the special valve stems and you don't need programming.Quote:
Originally Posted by stocker
Cooper st/2's have been my favorite Tested and proven. Worked much better then directional pattern snows.
look at this tread
http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/w...-studdable.jpg
Just ordered steelies with General Altimax Arctic rubber. According to tirerack.com, service installers cannot install tires without working TPMS sensors in place (National Highway Traffic Safety Administration).
I had to pay $130 for 4 new sensors but install was free - not to peeved since the sensors run about that much on rockauto.
The setup should be ready to install and reprogram when it shows up on my doorstep :)
That's just an excuse to sell more product. If you take the wheels into them they don't know what car it is going on so they won't know if your car has a TPMS readout.
I was buying a tire and wheel combo (mounted and balanced) for a car that has TPMS as a standard feature. The only way I could avoid the TPMS install was to specify that a local installer would be doing that work. In that case, I doubt the tires would have been mounted and balanced for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by stealthee
Even if I was able to avoid the TPMS this time around, any visit to a shop would be a headache trying to dodge the fact that they are supposed to be installed. I also have no second vehicle to be carting around car tires and rims.
Personally I'd be fine without the TPMS altogether but having them installed will hopefully avoid a headache in the future.
I would suggest either Goodyear Blizzaks, Michelin X-Ice or Nokian Hakapeliita.
Studded tires are useless unless you live somewhere where only ice is present, studs will slide on dry pavement and makes no difference on snow.
I'm already driving on snow here. Using my X-Ice on their last winter.
but studded snows do a spark show when you spin the tires at night lol
Not sure why anyone would buy steelies for a Grand Prix when much better looking stock rims can be had cheaper for your snows...
"Best winter only tires" not best rims
although I do question OP choice of tires after posting such a title ;)
Take it to a "mom n pop" shop. I have a friend that has a shop that wouldn't care if the rims had TPMS or not. There are plenty of other local shops that would be the same way.Quote:
Originally Posted by stocker
You can put the rims and tires in the Grand Prix too. They will fit, trust me.
I've never seen stock alloys go for $60 bucks in my area. Even if they were going for that price, I didn't want the hassle of going to a junkyard and trying to match up and inspect a set of 4 rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by 231FUN
Steelies give that "zero f*cks given" look and go well with mupflaps. Steel can take more of a beating (e.g. curbs) than stock rims too.
I threadjacked the OP - he got blizzaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyguy03
Quote:
Originally Posted by crazyguy03
ouch
Those Coopers look nice. Where did you get them and how much.
I can't seem to find that tire online.
Okay maybe the Generals aren't the "best" but I am sure they are pretty good.
Not much was available for snows in July.
Just a friendly nudge
i live in buffalo, known for snow and pot holes
My cars ran hankook w409 i-pike, directionals, which were nice but had trouble "digging" out
I tried the firestone winter tires , wore out way too fast but tread was chunky and performed well
Blizzaks were pricey and performed as well the coopers , so I stuck with the coopers.
Its really a personal preference. You can't always go off what others say.
Well no snow yet and two days of driving them.(General Altima Artic)
I can't remember who had mentioned the soft sidewalls, but yep.
Ride is smooth with the stock 225/55/17s, response is ....well weird. My first time with strictly snows.
Yesterday I almost got side swiped by some dumbass who was going to take an off ramp but decided to slide back over last minute.
No blinkers before the attempt or the change of mind. By then I was almost nose to nose in the lane he had been in.
I had to swerve into the left lane at 55. Tires didn't like it, they let out a squeal and bobbled and bounced like a boat.
My car doesn't usually handle like that. So I just have to watch out for people with the DUH look on their face.
That dude gave me the look like 'what was that all about'.
so far and no snow
Pro---no noise, smooth ride.
Cons--soft sidewall
What PSI do you guys air up your tires at?
I know recommended is 32, I have been doing 35. The line is easier to see lol
35 is better in my eyes, they will become less soft as the temps drop. Anything above 35-40ยบ outside and they wear quickly and don't do there job as good, they excel in cold temps.
As for that stocker guy, we have tons of people come in with different rims they want thrown on the car for winter and most never have sensors. My work is not a corp. store, so being a private owner has it's perks and we just don't care and leave it all in the customers hands for checking pressures etc etc.
I've had good luck with the General Altimax, Bridgestone Blizzaks, and Michelin X-Ice. I just installed a set of the Goodyear snow tires for a friend, and it's too early to have results yet. My brother uses the Firestones, and they work great but he complains about the noise. For most cases I recommend the Altimax for the budget conscious and the Blizzaks in most other cases.
For tire pressure, it depends on how you use the car. If you do a lot of highway, I like to go 2-4 PSI over factory recommendation. For cars which are "locally driven", I will stick to factory recommended pressure (with the caveat that I will also compensate for dropping temperatures - the rule of thumb is that you drop 1 PSI for every ten degrees F.)
-Bob C.