Thread: Wheel stud

Results 1 to 18 of 18
  1. #1 Wheel stud 
    GTP Level Member Ultra440's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    570
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    I apparently put a lug nut on crooked and stripped out one of my studs. Never had this happen before... does the whole hub need replaced to replace the single stud?
    2003 Park Avenue Ultra- 15% tint, 12" audiobahns, dynamatted trunk and doors, tinted tails, LEDs all around, HID headlights, f body brakes, sd headers, 3.5 pulley and supporting mods
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/my-03...tml#post824292
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #2 Re: Wheel stud 
    Turbo is the way to go. Fivefingerdeathpunch's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Rogers, MN
    Posts
    21,022
    Thanks (Received)
    21
    Likes (Received)
    45
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Should be able to just pound the stud out and pound a new one in.

    SMGPFC Member #1
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #3 Re: Wheel stud 
    GTX Level Member industrialfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Toledo, OH
    Posts
    1,251
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Since you can buy single OEM studs, and longer aftermarket studs I'm willing to bet they are replaceable. But for god sake don't actually pound it in or out! The hub is held on with three bolts, you can take it off and press the the stud in and out, or if you do not have access to a press, use a large C clamp with a socket on the backside of the hub.
    2005 GTP - Graystone Metallic|SPO grills&spoiler/SE lip/Carbon Fiber INFERNO hood
    7"
    Spectre|3.4 MPS|42lb Blue Giants+E85+Walbro 450lph pump
    SpeedDaddys|AL605|Vogtlands on FE3s|Vinnie's Spacers on solid lowers|Intense poly uppers|
    Dorman + Addco sway bars|Drilled/slotted rotors|Plasti-dip 17" QP2 at +27 offset
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #4 Re: Wheel stud 
    Moderator dsmuts's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Coldwater, OH
    Posts
    15,758
    Thanks (Received)
    1
    Likes (Received)
    1
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    They pound in and out just fine no need to remove the bearing
    98 GTP modded 1.9's, sd headers, 3.4", zzp 1.0 230K miles scrapped.
    04 Comp G zzp stb's, UMI ta's, Speedbuilt sways, bully flo heads, XP, zzp headers, fsic, thrasher shift kit, 60#, 2.6" corsa 2.5", Inferno hood
    01 gt z7 turbo tep trans zzp motor
    08 g8 gt cam exhaust 11.87@118
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #5 Re: Wheel stud 
    GTX Level Member industrialfish's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Toledo, OH
    Posts
    1,251
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by dsmuts View Post
    They pound in and out just fine no need to remove the bearing
    I still advise against pounding on them, in either direction but especially when putting them in. You can use the C-clamp without hub removal. At least use an open ended lugnut and just tighten it to press them in.
    2005 GTP - Graystone Metallic|SPO grills&spoiler/SE lip/Carbon Fiber INFERNO hood
    7"
    Spectre|3.4 MPS|42lb Blue Giants+E85+Walbro 450lph pump
    SpeedDaddys|AL605|Vogtlands on FE3s|Vinnie's Spacers on solid lowers|Intense poly uppers|
    Dorman + Addco sway bars|Drilled/slotted rotors|Plasti-dip 17" QP2 at +27 offset
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #6 Re: Wheel stud 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,929
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    you cant pound them back in, so you'll need to slide the new stud in then pull it in with a open lug nut on backwards, you may have to cut one side of the back flat part of the new stud to get it in behind the hub ring.

    it maybe be best to cut the old one short then pound it out so it comes out from behind the ring.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #7 Re: Wheel stud 
    GTX Level Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Location
    troll land
    Posts
    1,018
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    If its on the rear no need to cut it to knock it out, had to replace two on the rear when I bought the car cause some @#$/head hammered the lugs on
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #8 Re: Wheel stud 
    GTP Level Member Ultra440's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2012
    Location
    Ohio
    Posts
    570
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Thanks guys. Yep, on the back.
    2003 Park Avenue Ultra- 15% tint, 12" audiobahns, dynamatted trunk and doors, tinted tails, LEDs all around, HID headlights, f body brakes, sd headers, 3.5 pulley and supporting mods
    http://www.grandprixforums.net/my-03...tml#post824292
    Reply With Quote  
     

  9. #9 Re: Wheel stud 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,929
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    true that, much more room on a rear hub. fronts are a tight fit tho.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  10. #10 Re: Wheel stud 
    SE Level Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    was anyone able to get a front stud in on an 07 grand prix without removing the hub? if so please advise,thanks
    Reply With Quote  
     

  11. #11 Re: Wheel stud 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,929
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    Quote Originally Posted by chuckfromcanada View Post
    was anyone able to get a front stud in on an 07 grand prix without removing the hub? if so please advise,thanks

    yup,

    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    you cant pound them back in, so you'll need to slide the new stud in then pull it in with a open lug nut on backwards, you may have to cut one side of the back flat part of the new stud to get it in behind the hub ring.

    it maybe be best to cut the old one short then pound it out so it comes out from behind the ring.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  12. #12 Re: Wheel stud 
    SE Level Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Wheel I got the broken one off no problem but the replacement wont clear the hole to get a nut on it..i have it positioned to the right of the strut , where did you line up yours? Was the stud as long as the others?
    Reply With Quote  
     

  13. #13 Re: Wheel stud 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,929
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    best spot to re install is where the caliper was. caliper, bracket and rotor need to come off.

    if you cant get the stud to go in clear. you cut one side of the backing part of the stud off. it should clear and slide in the hole.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  14. #14 Re: Wheel stud 
    SE Level Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Geez what a rotten job cant get it lined up anywhere 2 days on a wheel for a brake change is a joke, broken studs rusted on rotors ...
    Reply With Quote  
     

  15. #15 Re: Wheel stud 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,929
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    you can always take the hub off and pound the stud in.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  16. #16 Re: Wheel stud 
    SE Level Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    with the amount of rust on the shaft I don't see it being a good idea...lol thanks for the help
    Reply With Quote  
     

  17. #17 Re: Wheel stud 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    new jersey
    Posts
    39,929
    Thanks (Received)
    63
    Likes (Received)
    166
    Dislikes (Received)
    5
    you put the spare tire on, then lower it to the ground, then take the axle nut off with a breaker bar and a pipe. that nut will come off. theres 2 size nuts, 34 and 36 mm 36 socket will work on a 34 mm nut. ive done it.

    sooner or later it will need to come off anyways, cause that hub or axle will fail one day.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
    Reply With Quote  
     

  18. #18 Re: Wheel stud 
    SE Level Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Canada
    Posts
    8
    Thanks (Received)
    0
    Likes (Received)
    0
    Dislikes (Received)
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by Scottydoggs View Post
    you put the spare tire on, then lower it to the ground, then take the axle nut off with a breaker bar and a pipe. that nut will come off. theres 2 size nuts, 34 and 36 mm 36 socket will work on a 34 mm nut. ive done it.

    sooner or later it will need to come off anyways, cause that hub or axle will fail one day.
    Thanks for the help! Really appreciated!
    Reply With Quote  
     

Similar Threads

  1. Changing a wheel stud?
    By Z28 in forum General Tech Discussion
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 04-13-2011, 03:30 PM
  2. Easy way to install a new wheel stud?
    By Deezul_AwT in forum Tires & Wheels
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 08-12-2010, 05:44 PM
  3. How to fix broken wheel stud?
    By ryangtp89 in forum Brakes/Suspension/Chassis
    Replies: 12
    Last Post: 10-08-2008, 10:59 PM
  4. &#@$ing Wheel Stud
    By Abrasive in forum The Rant Forum
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 04-01-2008, 05:44 PM
  5. rear wheel stud-how to get it out and new installed?
    By fst in forum Brakes/Suspension/Chassis
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 03-03-2008, 03:47 PM
Bookmarks
Bookmarks
Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •