bearings, and rotors, and pads, oh my

[tdm571]

Well, I went out today to change the front bearings on my 97SE. I've only had it a couple of months and with the $h1tty weather we've been having, I haven't had a chance to work on it much. So, I get the wheels and I notice that the rotors are worn enough that there is a lip around the outer edge and I can't get the calipers off. So I now know I need to order me some rotors. So I figure I should be able to leave the caliper on the rotor and just take the rotor off. Low and behold the rotor is rusted solid to the hub. . Banged on it for a little bit with a rubber mallet and it didn't budge. So, I guess I'll just wait until my rotors get here to do the job.

[TheOtherNick]

Compress the caliper and it will come right off.

[dpzelenak]

yes^
open the bleeder screw and pry the caliper with a screw driver and it should pop right off,

[tdm571]

I'll do that when my new rotors come in. I have a spare vehicle for my wife to drive. No need to rip everything apart twice.

[PurpleGuy]

A rubber mallet? lol...I use a 3 pound hammer. But ya, you can compress the caliper and it will come off. You'll have to compress the caliper again when you put the new parts in. Be a beast and do it by hand..lol.

[tdm571]

Who needs hands? I'll just use my teeth! Grrrrrrr

[PurpleGuy]

i'll have to try that next time...i thought it was hard by hand...damn never thought of teeth lol

[neel2008]

no need to pop the bleeder, thats just a good way to get air in the system, all you need is a c clamp and your brain...

[PurpleGuy]

kinda hard to put a c-clamp on when its still on the car...unless your gonna compress the rotor too lol

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

umm, or just take the cap off the brake fluid container on the master cylinder

[tdm571]

Working on the back first. Can't get the d--n hubs off. Rotors came off just fine.

[OH4CompG]

The rears are harder. You're gonna need to get an air chisel in there between the bearing and the knuckle and hope for the best.

[tdm571]

The rears are harder. You're gonna need to get an air chisel in there between the bearing and the knuckle and hope for the best.

Thanks for the uplifting response. LOL. Just how I wanted to spend my Saturday. Beating the h--l out of my car to get the hubs out.

[tdm571]

OK, I'm at the point where I've removed the rear knuckle. I have sprayed penetrating oil and beat the living h--l out of the hub to remove it. That sucker just won't come out. I thought about just replacing the knuckle, but no one seems to sell it. Not even rockauto.com. At this point, I'm open to suggestions.

[dpzelenak]

have you tried heating it up then beating it?

[tdm571]

After all the penitrating fluid, I didn't feel like burning down my garage. I might give it a try tomorrow.

[dpzelenak]

i feel ya....as long as its not dripping wet..it wont catch fire, it'll just smoke and smell bad

[tdm571]

Heat did the trick. Woo Hoo. Now I just have to scrape clean the knuckle. Any reason why I shouldn't put anti-seize on the mating surfaces?

[blueguy]

You won't need it...that stuff was just neglected...or buy zinc plated slotted rotors and love more stopping power and no rust EVAH

[tdm571]

What does zinc plated rotors have to do with the hub mating surfaces?