Lurking Regal owner

[glendayle]

I realized at 6am today. Figured it was likely me, the steroids the doc has me on this week or that it was simply early.

You also commented on the backwards bolt. Which I can take out with 12" extention and leaving the wheel on the car. I know you don't want to hear things like...my motor was out in 1.5 hours or less.

Yeah, I was thinking that there was a way to hit that bolt, but I was having trouble getting to the snout bracket bolts anyways. I don't really have a time crunch so I'm not attempting to break any speed records. Sat was dedicated to slowly getting everything taken off the front end. Yesterday I was planning on getting the motor to the motor stand. I only spent about an hour, and I wasn't in the mood to move everything, jack the car, do the flexplate, let it down, and then pull the motor and mount it. It was getting late in the day. I still need to go to the hardware store to find the correct bolts to mount the motor to my stand. I really wish I had a pressure washer. I want to clean up my bay.

If you have any mounting pics/suggestions for a Frozenboost style 101 I'd be open to it. I had planned on putting at least one fan in front, but I just don't think there is going to be space. I almost wish I had gotten the style 118 or just the ZZP one for easier mounting.

[BillBoost37]

I find a hose and purple power can do wonders w/o high pressure.

The trick there is .. pull the alternator. Pull it's bracket/tensioner assembly. Then look down. It's perfect and if you rock the motor forward in the next mount hold (pass side) it's super easy to get your diff to engine bolts. then you put your socket on the extension and with the power steering pump lowered.. you sneak that guy under the exhaust manifold. Grab the bolt and poof.. easy as pie.

[glendayle]

I find a hose and purple power can do wonders w/o high pressure.

The trick there is .. pull the alternator. Pull it's bracket/tensioner assembly. Then look down. It's perfect and if you rock the motor forward in the next mount hold (pass side) it's super easy to get your diff to engine bolts. then you put your socket on the extension and with the power steering pump lowered.. you sneak that guy under the exhaust manifold. Grab the bolt and poof.. easy as pie.

I'll have to try that next time(if there is one). I have a harder time hitting the snout bracket bolts. They are just in a wonky place. I need a special gumby arm. The ***** bolt actually isn't too bad now that I know how/where to find it. When I did my trans swap I spent a lot of stupid time trying to figure out where it was and how to hit it. Unfortunately I won't have a chance to do anything today. After work I've got a reception to go to and then I'm playing hockey so I won't be back to my house until about 11pm. Because I've got so much stuff I'm doing to this car, I'm trying to do something, even if it's small or easy, every day. I may remove my trunk carpet and lining or remove the passenger seat.

[glendayle]

If any of you are reading this, I'm looking for some help with mounting my FMHE.

If you have any mounting pics/suggestions for a Frozenboost style 101 I'd be open to it. I had planned on putting at least one fan in front, but I just don't think there is going to be space. I almost wish I had gotten the style 118 or just the ZZP one for easier mounting.

I've done some searches and haven't come up with anything, but if you know of or have a link to a thread around this, please post as well.

Thanks in advance.

[BillBoost37]

I like to drill the bottom holes into the lower radiator support. Put a body clip on it and use a 10mm bolt to hold the FMHE to the lower. Then take a piece of metal stock and go across the top to support it from flopping.

In my pb, look at Len Red Ripper under modding visits.

[glendayle]

Thanks Bill. I found the thread. For the metal stock, what size did you use? Something like 1"x1/4"?

[BillBoost37]

I went way thicker than I had to. About 1 or so inches high, yes. 1/8" thick is probably more than needed.

[glendayle]

I'll probably go thicker rather than thinner. Last thing I need is the FMHE hitting the condenser.

[1ATony]

welcome to the site

[glendayle]

Thanks Tony

[glendayle]

Also, I guess I need to figure out location of the different parts. I was planning on using a 97/98 coolant bottle as the fill reservoir. I need to figure out order of parts, and orientation/location.

I guess from a physics standpoint, I'd think I need to have the pump between the overflow/fill reservoir.

FMHE------->Coolant Reservoir----------->Bosch Pump------------>IC Core--\
^--------------------------------------------------------------------------/

Is that correct?

[glendayle]

Well, messed around today long enough to pull this. Could get the PS reservoir off, so I just disconnected the fitting from the line on the backside. Hopefully that was a bad thing to do. Also forgot to unplug the rear knock sensor so I now have a wire hanging. Don't think either of those issues are too big of a deal. My motor/engine bay are filthy.

[BillBoost37]

Rear knock sensor wire...it's a pain. You want to hop on getting a good one now.
PS pump wouldn't come off the block? It's two 13mm bolts, through the pulley. 12 and 6 for positioning. At least it's not a pain to bleed.

[glendayle]

Rear knock sensor wire...it's a pain. You want to hop on getting a good one now.
PS pump wouldn't come off the block? It's two 13mm bolts, through the pulley. 12 and 6 for positioning. At least it's not a pain to bleed.

Bill, this is why you should be my next door neighbor. You would save me a ton of time and energy!!! I couldn't get the pulley off. I didn't have the correct size allen. In my mind it's a solid pulley, but I'll take a look when I go back out there. I didn't think to try to access the mounting bolts through it.

[BillBoost37]

There are a few holes in the pulley. You insert a deep socket into a hole and it should work well.

[Scottydoggs]

the p/s pump pulley is also press on / off.

your engine is out, that's what matters.

[glendayle]

No one has bolts long enough to use with my stand. I had to special order them from fastenal, but they won't be here until next week. Anything wrong with the"tire stand" method?

This is pretty frustrating. I was really hoping to bang out some progress over the labor day weekend. I'll spend the next day or so formulating a new plan. Obviously I can do things like mount the FMHE. I guess I still have my entire interior to remove as well.

[glendayle]

the p/s pump pulley is also press on / off.

your engine is out, that's what matters.

Yeah. This is the first time I've pulled a motor so I'm not too worried about making some mistakes. I'm trying to be careful, so hopefully what mistakes i make won't be that big of a deal.

Sent from my SPH-D710 using Tapatalk 2

[BillBoost37]

FWIW I have a decent write up here for engine removal. I believe those couple hiccups are included. Overall though, if that's the worst..you have it made.

I would put the pump back in the engine bay before the motor. It will be super easy to hook up w/o motor in place.
If you don't have something supporting the diff (passenger) end of the trans. Do so. You don't want it holding itself up by the axle and seal etc.
You can definately work on it on the ground. I would suggest putting something on either side to keep if from wanting to tip. However have worked w/o anything and just grabbed it when it tried to fall.
PS..leave the PS bolts in the PS pump when you remove it from the engine. Those bolts can be a pain to put back in place blindly. It's easier ...much much easier.

[glendayle]

Thank Bill. I guess I need to put some blocks under the trans snout. I'll go look for your thread.