Battery 2004 Grand Prix GT

[theclarks1]

I have been wondering about this for a while, but I didnt know for sure. I have noticed that the car seems to be a little sluggish when it starts. I think that it has the origional battery in it, so im looking to replace it. I have heard that if you dont use a certian kind, it will affect the electronics. Im either going with one of two brands, east penn mfg (DEKA) or the interstate. I know that both are reliable, what should the specs be on it? Anyone had any issues just using the standard 34/78 series? Im also looking at struts, and I need to fix the HUD. The spring is broken. I think that its also going to need motor mounts (dogbones), they look to be letting the engine move. I was also wondering about the mounts on the bottom, and did find some on that too.

[PALMCASTER GT1]

Not sure if the brand would make ANY difference but I know you gotta get the right cold cracken amps , any automotive shop will do fine. As for the starting problem , can you give more info ?? Might be helpful.

[Fivefingerdeathpunch]

I would get the interstate if I was you, with about 700-800 CCA's.

Excessive motor movement is normally the lower engine mounts, I would look at that those 2 first. If they are factory I bet they very worn and could use replacment.

[PALMCASTER GT1]

Opps , cold cranking amps

[NegativeOne13]

Also it probably wouldn't hurt to clean out your throttle body and your MAF. Might help with your cold startups. Easy 15 min job, few bucks on carb cleaner and electronic cleaner.

[dsmuts]

Search for flipping your dogbones it might help you out with the engine movement.

[cerick08GP]

A battery is a battery; GPs will run pretty much any 12V automotive battery that will fit. (and in general most batteries fit) Keeping in mind the CCA rating and it having the right posts are key.

I just replaced my battery a couple months ago using a standard size 34 (top posts) with 690 CCA. Now if I’m correct the size 78s have side posts. I know my 02 GP had side posts, but my 08 GP has top posts. Anyway, just make sure you have the right post configuration is what I’m getting at. And capacity wise I’d aim for about 650-700 CCA, any more would be a waste unless your running huge amps or something.

Be aware that when I bought my battery they had my replacement battery designated as a fancy gel battery for some reason. Which btw is twice the cost of a regular battery, more over my car didn’t even come stock with a gel battery. Lol

Also, when you replace the battery it is the perfect time to check the fender well ground. They are in a really bad place and tend to corrode on GPs. The other grounds usually are fine unless they get damaged or something. Just unbolt it with the battery out and clean up the connections with some sand paper or wire brush.

[theclarks1]

Just as an fyi, all batteries aren't created equal. I worked for a manufacturer, I can tell you that for sure. The 34/78 is a top side combination. Its more of a common fit all with more cca's. It stated in the application manual, if replaced with other than thespecial battery could damage the electrical. I was trying to find out if anyone else had seen this issue.

[cerick08GP]

Um huh…

You’re some kind of battery guru and you come here looking for information?

And you are concerned the “application manual” warning of electrical damage, did it ever run through your mind why the warning is so vague? Heck my manual says I’ll get cancer if I touch my battery, but only if I live in California!?! Hey but who knows maybe the years spent as an electrician I missed a day or two of class on special lead acid batteries. In a round about way I was trying to give you a little practical information that I have picked up over last 11 years maintaining my GPs. But hey just bring it to the dealer; I’m sure they will put a non-damaging battery in. lmao

[PALMCASTER GT1]

@cerick08gp , that's not cool bro , I live in california : )

[theclarks1]

Um huh…

You’re some kind of battery guru and you come here looking for information?

And you are concerned the “application manual” warning of electrical damage, did it ever run through your mind why the warning is so vague? Heck my manual says I’ll get cancer if I touch my battery, but only if I live in California!?! Hey but who knows maybe the years spent as an electrician I missed a day or two of class on special lead acid batteries. In a round about way I was trying to give you a little practical information that I have picked up over last 11 years maintaining my GPs. But hey just bring it to the dealer; I’m sure they will put a non-damaging battery in. lmao

What I came here for was maybe a similar expirence, or if someone else maybe has had the same issue. As most of us know about these cars the electrical is very fragile, sorry to make a comment that offended you. I was just trying to get more information and see if anyone else had a similar issue.

[theclarks1]

I thought that the throttle body may have need cleaning, I did that earlier in the year, but I didnt check the MAF. I also dont know that the pcv valve has been changed either, but with some reading last night between oil changes on the 3.8 it seems to use up that 1qt. I will have a look at how to clean the MAF as well. I believe that its on top of the throttle body...