Strawberry milkshake coolent

[QUICKSILVER462]

They are correct, an auxillary cooler should not be used as a stand alone cooler for the transmission. A couple of The reasons are:
1) the transmission is designed to operate at a certian temperature, and so is the fluid, the quicker the fluid gets to operating temperature, the longer the transmission will last. Cooler is not always better, there is such a thing as too cold. Oil bearing clearences are designed to match the viscosity of the fluid at temperature.
2) sitting in a traffic jam on the interstate, or heavy city traffic could cause the fluid to get too hot as there is very little airflow over the cooler, unless a fan is installed. This is were the factory cooler would take over the job of keeping the fluid cool while sitting still. Alot of heat is generated when not moving, and the converter spining the fluid creates friction, this heat needs to be removed, and a stand alone cooler without airflow is usless.
Installing a new radiator is the best way to go, I say this because if the old one has developed a crack for the transmission fluid cooler, you have to ask yourself the question just how much longer is the rest of the radiator going to last.

[SnowDrift]

I've had mine for 2 summers and it gets hot in SC. Other than a zzp trans pan for cooling and dex 6. I have had no probs and my last flush showed no sign of damage.

What temperatures do you see in the pan?

[gtpinsc]

No clue. My fluid is just as red as it was coming out of the bottle. And I had no shavings in my pan. But when my trans dies ill let yall know. Its already taken 2 hot ass summer pulling 20 inch rims for one of those summers

[matt5112]

dont have a scan gauge?

[gtpinsc]

There's one next door at my friends shop. I've been meaning to scan for kr for lower octane gas on stock pulley. Ill check out temps driving around town and on hihghway while I'm at it.

[SnowDrift]

With all due respect, I don't believe it makes sense to make the claims you're making if you don't even know what temperatures your transmission has been seeing (both before and after the change). The ambient air temperature of your state doesn't tell anyone anything about what is happening inside the transmission. Running 20" rims alone, also, doesn't tell anyone what is happening inside the transmission.

[gtpinsc]

With all due respect, I don't believe it makes sense to make the claims you're making if you don't even know what temperatures your transmission has been seeing (both before and after the change). The ambient air temperature of your state doesn't tell anyone anything about what is happening inside the transmission. Running 20" rims alone, also, doesn't tell anyone what is happening inside the transmission.

I'm stating visual inspection of fluids and lack of metal in trans before and after flush. And also performance. Ill get temps today when I get off work. I'm sayin that running a stand alone cooler for 2 years hasn't hurt me yet

[gtpinsc]

Ok so its 98 degrees outside. I used a matco determinator scanner. I scanned after an hour of driving. Idle trans temps were 192 degrees, driving temps on highway were 194. WOT run til 100 MPH were at 198 after road scans I let it sit for about 5 minutes and it slowly started dropping. Stock thermo is 195 so I'd say that's normal operating temps. My KR however was 6 degrees at 100 mph on 87 octane a lot which I think is false cuz I have some vibration in sway bar. Don't believe me? Try it urself and see.

[matt5112]

87 octane son...

Though i'm running 89 knock free to the top of second. (havnt gone past that)

[gtpinsc]

Mine went from 0 to 4 and spiked at 6 in third gear. I'm gonna scan 93 tomorrow and see if that knock is false. I think I proved my point on trans cooler however. With it tied into radiator its still gonna be pumping through 200 degree coolant as opposed to just a big ass cooler. Seems it woulkd be hotter with rad and cooler opposed to just cooler

[SnowDrift]

Don't believe me? Try it urself and see.

This isn't personal. Calm down.

My point was that before this post, the only real facts you gave was that you did the bypass and haven't seen problems for 2 years. You hadn't backed it with any temperatures we could see, so we could determine if it's running warm or not. A fluid analysis would give a true reading of what is happening to the ATF.

Two things come to mind, here. 1) Approaching 200 deg. F. is quite high if you're driving down the highway, especially if you're not towing anything. I suspect slippage or inadequate cooling. Is the torque convertor locking up? Shearing fluid builds heat quickly. I'd be comfortable with 140-170 deg. F. at highway speeds, but if you're not coming down more than a few degrees on the open road, there's something not quite right. 2) I'd have been curious to see what the temperatures would have been before the bypass was done.

You might want to try adding Lube-Guard to see if that helps. It's a friction modifier.

Best to you.

[matt5112]

I was at 188 on my last long distance trip but that was with a stock car and stock t-stat so engine temps were roughly 195 the whole time.

With that in mind, how is 200 high if they share the same rad?

[gtpinsc]

I'm calm just sayin I figured someone would call bs. Keep in mind I was at WOT on the highway for a good part of test scanning for KR. trans is working when being driven. Not so much at idle. And like matt said stock thermo is 195 so I feel temps are fine. My trans doesn't lock up until just after 160 so with the temps snowdrift stated I would never be in lockup. Ill continue using cooler by itself from what scan said and from the performance of the car. Its fine.

[SnowDrift]

Asking you to give some facts to back up what you're saying isn't "calling bs" - it's just asking for more information so everyone can understand and make an informed decision.

I'd feel more comfortable with a temperature between 140-170 is what I'm saying. Cooler fluid means longer life on the high temp. side. I also believe, though, that it needs to be up to a certain temperature for the proper viscosity levels, as someone pointed out earlier. It doesn't appear you're having a problem with generating heat, though. I don't know how long it takes to reach that temperature, though. I don't know what mine in the GP sees because I haven't put a gauge in the pan yet. Maybe dropping off the additional 30-60 deg. or so can only occur through an additional external cooler? That would make sense to me.

There's an interesting point here, though. With what Matt has pointed out on temperatures and what gtpinsc has pointed out on temperatures, it doesn't appear the bypassing has had much affect.

I'd be interested to see if anyone has results by putting on an additional stacked plate cooler (not just a by-pass).

Here's a chart I came across. It's only one, and I'd guess some oil manufacturers or transmission builders out there may have similar ones. Kind of interesting, though.

Transmission temperature/failure chart.

[matt5112]

The most accurate tranny temp reading is the one your cars computer has.

You need a scan gauge to have an accurate reading of your tranny temp.

[SnowDrift]

Where is the sensor for that located? Personally, I like to see the hottest temperature possible, for worst case scenario, but don't like the idea of cutting the output line to do so. The pan is my next choice.

[gtpinsc]

Each car is different but I don't go innto lockup until shortly after 160 so going below that with trans temp is beyond me. I'm not nice to my car and my trans runs perfectly how it is. Its just a matter of opinion I guess.