KR

[kissmyss]

I've been driving the Imp for the last 3 days and at full throttle I've been getting up to 7.0 of kr until the transmission shift. I don't get any during normal driving, Before installing the crossover, plog and 104's at .55 gap the most I would get was 3.7 at full throttle. I thought after installing the aforementioned mods I wouldn't get any kr. Does the computer need time to relearn or could it be something else.
Btw, I also had my Lim replaced

[Bio248]

get it tuned and i bet youll have 0 KR.

[blueguy]

X2 ^^^

[TDCRacing]

Agreed.

[Bio248]

just to let you know what is up, the exhaust opened up and now youre running leaner.

[kissmyss]

just to let you know what is up, the exhaust opened up and now youre running leaner.

Thanks, Sabrewings said the same thing. I just won't do any Wot pulls until I get the pcm reflashed by Overkill. That'll be when I install the Nstar Tb, later in the year.

[kissmyss]

My 02 voltage fluctuates, does that mean I need a new o2 sensor. I don't have any codes, I re-gapped to .50 as per Overkill. I haven't checked for vacuum leaks, I need to by a propane torch.
At idle;
stft = 1.5 to 3.2
ltft = -3.2
maf = 0.80 freq =2600
Iac = 10093
map psi = 19.1 kpa = 33
ign adv = 20.0
pw = 2.4
cmd a/f = 14.70
o2 flutuate between 30 and 900
no kr

At 2000 rpm
ltft = 3.9
maf = 1.61 freq = 3660
Iac = 15957
map psi =20.6 kpa = 28
ign adv = 34.5
pw = 2.2 to 2.4
cmd a/f = 14.70
o2 flutuate between 30 and 900
no kr

This was from the aeroforce, while parked. I'll do the cruising and wot stats tomorrow and I'll especially watch the kr at wot.

[FuglyGTP]

i suggest starter fluid instead of propane

[Sabrewings]

My 02 voltage fluctuates, does that mean I need a new o2 sensor. I don't have any codes, I re-gapped to .50 as per Overkill. I haven't checked for vacuum leaks, I need to by a propane torch.

See my response on NAIOA.

[Bio248]

that o2 level seems low.

[kissmyss]

Cruising @ 55
stft = 3.1
ltft = 7.8
maf = 2.75 freq =4570
Iac = 18788
map psi = 10.1 kpa = 60
ign adv = 29.5
pw = 4.0
cmd a/f = 14.70
o2 flutuate between 30 and 900
no kr

Wot
stft = 0.0
ltft = 0.0
kpa = 173
pw = 2.4
cmd a/f = 10.20
o2 960
kr = 6.1 until tranny shifts

This was all I could get at wot, it's kind of hard watching the aeroforce and driving at the same time.

[Bio248]

the o2 is never going to stay the same. it always moves around. that is why it is pretty important to get a wideband AFR gauge after a certain point in modding. id suggest looking into it.

[kissmyss]

I used starting fluid and sprayed it around the hoses and top of the engine. I didn't have any engine rpm changes, I'm going to spray a soapy solution and look for air being inhaled. I used my mechanics stethoscope and found the supercharger tensioner to be knocking. It's more pronounced when the rpm increases, when you move the tensioner bolt you can hear and feel it. Could this be the knock that the sensor is picking up, hence a false knock condition? I'll see if I can record it using my camera.

[Bio248]

possibly. anything hitting or grinding around the engine and exhaust can cause false knock.

[kissmyss]

I disconnected the Egr connecter at the valve based on the paperwork that came with The Overkill pcm. I followed the instruction and cleaned the intake, I also found this info concerning the Egr and kr.

1. Loss of Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR): EGR keeps combustion temperatures down, reducing the tendency to detonate. If the EGR valve is inoperative or someone has disconnected or plugged its vacuum hose, higher combustion temperatures can cause pinging.

2. Check for loss of EGR. The Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) system is one of the engine's primary emission controls. Its purpose is to reduce oxides of nitrogen (NOX) pollution in the exhaust. It does this by "leaking" (recirculating) small amounts of exhaust into the intake manifold through the EGR valve. Though the gases are hot, they actually have a cooling effect on combustion temperatures by diluting the air/fuel mixture slightly. Lowering the combustion temperature reduces the formation of NOX as well as the octane requirements of the engine.
If the EGR valve is not opening, either because the valve itself is defective or because its vacuum supply is blocked (loose, plugged or misrouted vacuum hose connections, or a defective vacuum control valve or solenoid), the cooling effect is lost. The result will be higher combustion temperatures under load and an increased chance of detonation.

Since I've tried most of the advice I received from various forums except sending the pcm back to Will and nothing has worked I'm going to plug the egr back in. I'll check for knock, if it's still there I'll gap the 104's to 45 check and then re-install the Iridium's. If the above doesn't bring the kr to below 3, which is what I was getting prior to to plog/crossover and a/l 104 install I'll just never do wot runs. since the the only time I get kr is stopped wot runs and rolling wot runs. During normal aggressive driving everything's fine

[Bio248]

your EGR doesnt do anything when youre WOT. it only is active when youre cruising.

[blueguy]

EGR? What is that? Ain't got that on my car

.45 seems a bit close for a gap on plugs though...I had mine gapped around .050 or .055. Another thought would be just to grab a new o2 and see if that changes anything if you haven't done that yet. If your 02's are reading all crazy like then I would think that a bad o2 would lead to KR since that is the motor's way of reading the exhaust gases right? And if it isn't reading then it might cause some issues. Just my 2 cents worth...might not be right idk. I would grab a new o2 sensor, regap the plugs to .050", delete the EGR, and tune, tune, tune.

[kissmyss]

Update: I only use BP premium in my vehicles and I may sometimes use Mobile. I usually go to the same stations, due to lower prices and I've had problems with bad gas at other stations. My truck has a flashed pcm which requires premium, so I don't make mistakes on gas. I just got my c/c bill and it say's on at least two occassions I put 89 octance in the truck and the last tank in the Imp was 89 octane. I'm sure I put premium in the vehicle, but since the bill has 89 I guess that's what's in there. I just filled the Imp with Mobile premium, Because I wanted to rule out the gas before I made any mechanical changes. I've driven the Imp for the last 2 days and I did notice a difference in the ltft's, at idle they lock from 0.0 to 0.7 and a few times at 2.3. At part throttle it goes to 7.9, if the press the peddle to speed up or pass someone it locks at 0.0 until I let off the gas. Before it didn't do this, I had to be at wot to get 0.0. I tried a wot run and the kr was lower, it spiked at 5.5. So maybe it is the gas, I'm going to take it easy for the next two tanks and make sure it's premium going into the vehicles. I noticed the vacuum hoses had little cracks in them, but weren't leaking so I'm going to replace them anyway. I'm going to get the kit from the dealer and some hoses from the parts store. I hope this solves my problem, thanks for all the advice.

Btw I was experiencing power issues with the truck also, I didn't connect the two until I got my bill.

[kissmyss]

Update; I cleaned the tb pics are in a separate post, check all the hoses and replaced some that seemed suspect. I checked the coils, plugs, wires and everything checked out ok. The ltft's are tamed, The kr is lower and I still have to use up all the gas. That may be awhile, I don't drive the Imp in the rain or snow for that matter. There's some good news though, my factory boost gauge goes a little past 10 when I punch it.