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GT Level Member
01-29-2018
Is it okay to put 5w-30 in my 2001 grand prix gtp
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01-29-2018
yup. good for winter use, or the 10 w. dont really matter.

98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails
L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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01-29-2018
I second that. Easier start ups when It's down in the negatives.
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Turbo is the way to go.
01-29-2018

SMGPFC Member #1
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GT Level Member
01-29-2018
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GT Level Member
01-29-2018

Originally Posted by
wstefan20
I second that. Easier start ups when It's down in the negatives.
Good to know needs that
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Donating Users
01-29-2018

Originally Posted by
Fivefingerdeathpunch
Actual combustion chamber image.
Chris B
2009 CX-9
** SOLD ** 2002 GT
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GTX Level Member
01-29-2018
I go with 5w30 all the time up until 100,000 miles. Then 10w30 in summer, 5w30 in winter. I live in New England. If it needs topping off... then I just use what's handy. Keeping it clean and full is most important.
For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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GT Level Member
01-29-2018

Originally Posted by
cheatah faheatah
I go with 5w30 all the time up until 100,000 miles. Then 10w30 in summer, 5w30 in winter. I live in New England. If it needs topping off... then I just use what's handy. Keeping it clean and full is most important.
Just wondering, why the switch to heavier after 100k?
2006 Grand Prix GT - 3" Downpipe | DIY Intake
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#10
Re: Oil type question
01-29-2018
its a bit thicker, helps with oil burning to some degree. i used run 3 qts of 40 and 2 of 30 in my old ass 230,000 l67, it also kept the lifter tick down at cold start up as well.

98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails
L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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#11
Re: Oil type question
GTX Level Member
01-29-2018

Originally Posted by
Pursell1911
Just wondering, why the switch to heavier after 100k?
I figure there has got to be more clearance at bearings, etc. because of wear, so thicker oil will be better. IMHO...lol.
For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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#12
Re: Oil type question
01-29-2018
I've been running 5W in the winter in both the Bonne and GPGT and 10W in the summer. So far so good. The bonne is at 291K and the GT is around 359K. A bit of lifter tick in the Bonne but it goes away quick after startup and the GT has none. I just use Wix filters and actually change my oil around 3500 miles with good ol Valvoline. They both leak/burn about 3/4 of a quart between changes.
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#13
Re: Oil type question
01-29-2018
I went with ...close enough and cheaper. LOL A 3800 is either going to run, run or blow. As long as you aren't doing oil changes every 7K, you should be fine.
I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.
2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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#14
Re: Oil type question
LaBarge Supercharged
01-29-2018

My 2 cents!
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#15
Re: Oil type question
GTP Level Member
01-30-2018

Originally Posted by
BillBoost37
I went with ...close enough and cheaper. LOL A 3800 is either going to run, run or blow. As long as you aren't doing oil changes every 7K, you should be fine.
?? I drive mine 3000 miles a month and change with mobil 1 and a good filter every 7500 miles and have never had a problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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#16
Re: Oil type question
GTX Level Member
01-31-2018

Originally Posted by
markpa
?? I drive mine 3000 miles a month and change with mobil 1 and a good filter every 7500 miles and have never had a problem.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
High miles with low hours should be fine, 7500 miles over a year with city driving and a thousand cold starts / heat cycles is no Bueno.
For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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#17
Re: Oil type question
GT Level Member
02-01-2018

Originally Posted by
Scottydoggs
yup. good for winter use, or the 10 w. dont really matter.
conventional or synthetic
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#18
Re: Oil type question
02-01-2018
those #'s mean the same thing for both, so what ever you like to use if up to you.
the 5 is for colder temps, the 10 is for summer, but if you look at the oil cap it should say in it what they recommend you use, could be 5w all year. or 10w. once again, it really dont matter in the end.

98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails
L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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#19
Re: Oil type question
GTX Level Member
02-01-2018
Keep it clean, but most of all.....FULL ! It's the EASIEST thing you can do to prolong engine life / prevent problems.
For the record : I am NOT a naked meth-head who shoves rocks up my butt.
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#20
Re: Oil type question
02-01-2018
for MarkPA
If you pull the oil cap and see black down on the valve train/head, then I'd suggest more frequent oil changes. If everything looks a happy golden color, then it's clean.
I bought a 97 Bonneville with 130K on it. Did LIM's and it wasn't dirty.. but there was a light build up. Changed with syn oil every 3k miles... at 180 I pulled the motor and opened it up again, the light build up was gone and it was a beautifully clean motor. Build up is not what I like to see, it can clog pushrods etc and reduce the amount of oil to an area of the motor. It's easy to tell by pulling the oil cap and taking a look and choosing if you might want to do more frequent changes.
Syn oil is good for keeping it's properties, it still will get some small dirt in it that get past the filter.
I drink..so consider that when reading my posts.
2010 Audi A6 Dual IC's
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