04+ Cluster Bulb Swap & (abandoned) DIC Project

[SaukRapids]

I got a gauge to play around positioning without A pillar. It's got a BA9s bayonet style bulb.

What size are the bulbs behind the cluster? I can try to order whole set then ..without having to take apart my dash right now. I searched and found all interior bulb sizes, but those. Lol

Cheers

[SaukRapids]

Talking about this after dinner reminded me that they're LED's. So, I just took it apart and looked.

If you've done the HUD fix, this is what you'll see after opening the cluster case.



I marked the gauges quick (small arrow). The holes are for some alignment tool if you want different colored backgrounds (large arrow). Those gauge faces are expensive, imo. Probably more worth a second look after this mod.



The leds are all over. The problem at this time is that my ABS computer's bad. I'd probably have trouble telling which leds are for illumination only. (Solved)



Measured.



I took a few minutes remembering things from soldering days. I didn't have the time to measure voltage, but I'd guess it's 12v. These are SMD leds that are approximately 3mm square. It took about a half hour, but I think I came up with what they are. Now, replacing them is another story. I have the skill, but I only have one cluster on hand.

Search for SMD 1210 or 3528. You can try googling "1210 (color choice)", but here is a direct link to the LEDs I used. You'll want the ones maked "PLCC-2." The four pad ones marked "PLCC-4" are incorrect. http://lighthouseleds.com/catalogsea...imit=15&q=1210

[J57ltr]

LED's aren't usually 12V there is a current limiting resistor that is already built onto that board and the traces that supply power to the LED. Just find out what the package size is and use one (want to say it's a 1210). The problem is going to be matching the color. They are measured in nM wavelength, though they may have a color assigned to them as well. It's kind of like a Daylight or warm color florescent bulb, there are subtle differences in color. If you are changing color then just pick the one you want. Remember that they are diodes so if you connect them backwards they will not work unless you buy bidirectional ones which have 2 LED's built in.

Jeff

[SaukRapids]

Thanks Jeff. I was looking at the specs on the leds and noticing the difference in light output and angle. 12v is wrong. 1210 with the two pad package are 3.0-3.6v typically. I'm not sure how to measure the applied voltage to the diode. I don't think I'm able to with a multimeter unless ..maybe a resistor?

Either way, what I'm thinking about doing is finding a JY cluster and replacing a single led to see if it illuminates. I'm fairly certain it will, but one is easy to swap back. I'll update once time and money allow.

Any other tips are appreciated. Especially, if anyone's done a GP before. Thanks.

[spazzz]

Planeboy from gpona r.i.p. did some. I had asked him about doing mine in blue.
He knows his stuff

Well damn I forgot he is a member here Planeboy 18

[J57ltr]

Thanks Jeff. I was looking at the specs on the leds and noticing the difference in light output and angle. 12v is wrong. 1210 with the two pad package are 3.0-3.6v typically. I'm not sure how to measure the applied voltage to the diode. I don't think I'm able to with a multimeter unless ..maybe a resistor?

Either way, what I'm thinking about doing is finding a JY cluster and replacing a single led to see if it illuminates. I'm fairly certain it will, but one is easy to swap back. I'll update once time and money allow.

Any other tips are appreciated. Especially, if anyone's done a GP before. Thanks.

you don't need to measure the applied voltage just replace them the drive components are already in the cluster. LEDs just need a current limiting resistor. We make a power supply that has 4 LED's on the front panel indicating +5V, +24V, -24V all DC and 120VAC to indicate that the fuse is good. The only difference between the LED's is the colors Red, Yellow, Green and another Red that correspond to the voltages mentioned above. So the 5VDC and the 120VAC LED's are the same the 5V has a 360 ohm resistor and the 120VAC has a 10K resistor in series with the LED's. This equates to 13 milliamps and 12 milliamps through the LED.

Jeff

[SaukRapids]

Yeah, I saw it was down a while ago. I just never checked back. Well, that sucks. All that stuff...

Thanks for this -

So the 5VDC and the 120VAC LED's are the same the 5V has a 360 ohm resistor and the 120VAC has a 10K resistor in series with the LED's. This equates to 13 milliamps and 12 milliamps through the LED. - Jeff

I knew there was math involved, but like you mentioned, I was deciding that the correct voltage would be applied. The resistor for the led is already in place. Your reiteration helped me decide the way to go -

JY cluster and replacing a single led to see if it illuminates. I'm fairly certain it will - SaukRapids

Now I have to find one, lol.

[J57ltr]

Yeah it's just simple ohms law calculation doesn't resistor, just look at the milliamp rating and you can use just about any LED just keep it below the maximum current.

[SaukRapids]

Well, there's cluster at the JY to get this weekend. I ordered blue and green leds to maybe kinda get a Cyan light? I'm not too sure about that, so I'm getting enough to do all one color if it looks like poo.

If it works and looks good, I'll do a write up.

[J57ltr]

Sounds good. Is there A diffuser behind the panel?

[SaukRapids]

Is there A diffuser behind the panel?

Kinda from what I saw. Those clear plastic ends sit over LEDs in the top pic.

I'm possibly going to start mapping the LEDs tonight. It seems like tedious work, and I'm less than thrilled about this particular part of it. Lol

[SaukRapids]

I need to wait for the car to be here, but I'm fairly certain this is right. LEDs showed up earlier. I obviously got too many, so the actual cost should be a bit lower.

Yellow are indicator LEDs. Pretty sure the blue are illumination. (Edit: Here is the correctly marked picture. I missed two more illumination LEDs marked in red.)





I'm anxious to get going, but I'm not %100 on the solder tip I have on hand. Might be a late night.

[J57ltr]

Lol well if you feel not up to it let me know I'm professional when it comes to soldering all types of solder from 60/40, HMP, Silver, LMP and lead free.

Jeff

[SaukRapids]

It's now official WIP. This is kinda fun. My anxiety's coming through a bit on my hand though. That Weller WPS18MP does a good job. The wal-mart solder sucks.

Complete with "mad" style workstation.



Making sure the position of the indicator leds. If you'll notice, I missed marking an illumination LED directly above the speedometer.



Replaced



Testing. Looks alright even blurry. Solder joint looks a little crappy, I'm rusty.



Did I mention I'm enjoying this?

[SaukRapids]

Progress! This is about where I'm stopping for the night. Once that ABS lamp is off, should look good.







Questions and comments are welcome. Thanks

[WarStryker13]

Idk if the green is working the way you were wanting...but the blue is gorgeous. Lol I think the red needles are keeping it from showing properly.

They are also much brighter than stock, which is something I like a lot. Good work so far, keep it up!

[SaukRapids]

Yeah, I agree. First glance, I'm still not too sure. I'm going to do around the speedometer in the same blue outer/green inner pattern. See how that looks. Those stupid lights from my ABS thing are getting covered, but the orange needle ya know? I guess we'll see tomorrow.

I like how the blue alone is looking too. The dimmer was on the brightest before I unplugged it.

Thanks for the feedback.

[J57ltr]

Looking good! I like that color.

If you are using the iso alcohol for cleaning all the flux up after soldering, try an old tooth brush works a lot better at getting at the joints than cotton swabs. You can even heat the head of the tooth brush so that you can bend it back so you aren't scrapping your knuckles. We use a water soluble flux solder and flux pens. It allows you to wash your boards with warm water and remove all of the flux. Then use an air compressor to blow the water off. Just use common sense when getting components wet like motors. We actually wash all of our boards that we build in house with water and dry them in this manner.

Flux pen: Kester 2331-ZX part number:8310972331

Water soluble solder: Kester 331 (.031" 63/37) Part number: 40500461

We are now using Locktite solder. Part number: SN633C 0.56mMR HX3C (250 gram) (I think this used to be Multicore brand)



Jeff

[SaukRapids]

Thanks for the reminder on no-clean solder/flux. I should have acetone and a proper aluminum handled brush. Can't remember what it was about rosin core that needed to be cleaned. Does it cause corrosion? I know it's derived from tree sap, odd fact. The old board is surprisingly durable. I thought for sure I lifted a pad removing one, but it stayed.

Here is the area around the speedometer that was a little tight. The pads are tinned, but not cleaned. The leds aren't sitting perfectly flat, but that's not a big deal. SMT stuff isn't meant to be hand soldered. It doesn't look perfect after connecting a new LED. The heat started soaking a pad on a nearby component (black square thing). Bear in mind those pads are a couple millimeters big. Too much heat and a new LED was damaged and replaced. Quick touches and a steady hand.



The center LEDs are swapped. Those yellow ABS lights are leaking light onto the the edge surround. They're masked now. Time to test here in a bit. More pics later!

[J57ltr]

Instead of tinning the pads just pad them with solder then use a solder sucker to remove it and it will sit flat. That way when you go to solder instead of just melting the existing solder you have on the pad use the solder on the roll to add so that the flux spreads properly and allows a good joint. The rosin core isn't bad, it's Acid core you don't want to use, but it's meant for soldering copper pipe and metals together. Acetone will work, but it may wash off the silk screening. SMD parts really aren't that hard to solder by hand. I am not in practice but built a prototype card a couple of weeks ago and here's the result: