Thread: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine

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  1. #1 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    SE Level Member LouF's Avatar
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    Nice post. Have been planning on doing this, but haven't been quite motivated. I just noticed some surging, so yea, I probably should get to this...sometime...soon..dammit. LOL Thanks again.
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  2. #2 Re: How to Flush/Change Power Steering Fluid on the 3800/3.8L Engine 
    SE Level Member LouF's Avatar
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    I want to follow up on my P/S fluid change: '05 GTP, 119,000 mi., fluid level was not low.

    Short story: The job is relatively easy. I did notice an improvement. The steering is tighter and smoother (would never have believed that would happen with a fluid change), and the slight whining is gone. Even play is gone, which I had written off as worn linkage . It was worth the effort.


    Details and comment:

    I must have got air in in because I had trouble getting it clear. I thought I cracked the hose or the hose was stretched/worn at the connection; neither turned out to be the case. It was foamy, and I did use very short run times; apparently not good enough, or the cap needs to be on ?? Anyway, I did notice that bubbles came up into the reservoir when the wheels were turned to the RIGHT. The purging began to happen quickly after doing this. About 5 minutes are needed between runs to let the bubbles pop when it's foamy.

    Since 1 qt. was ~$6.xx and a gallon was ~16.xx, I got the gallon and used it all. I could have did it with less, but I made the job thorough at that point. It cost me about $30 to do the job after getting some hose and a barbed hose unions (Dorman). The hose and union ended up not being used to extend the return line because the ret. line I.D. was too big. I used some clear tubing that I had. I shoved it up the line, and it did not blast out while running.

    I thought it REALLY made the steering easier, but that was because it was still jacked up. No, I wasn't all jacked up. lol.

    You need to move the engine coolant reservoir. You can do it without disconnecting it, and just set it up front. Tilt it to get the air out of that before putting it back in. Put your thumb over the overflow outlet when tilting.

    Draining the reservoir at the beginning is helpful, but there is still quite a bit that will come out. I save soap/hand lotion pumps to use for pumping out brake master cylinders (otherwise you can just soak it up with a paper towel after a few times). The pump worked well here too (with a tubing extender) and a salsa jar.

    I plug hoses with glue/caulk caps.

    Slide the spring clamp back and twist the return line with a full grip before trying to pull it off P/S pump.


    OK, I'll stop there. Thanks for the comprehensive write-up and photos.
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