Tb = throttle body
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Tb = throttle body
we got that here too. lots of them to deal with. http://www.grandprixforums.net/common-acronyms-682.html
TB= throttle body.
home depot, or lowes tool sets run 30 bucks, have the deep and shallow sockets, spark plug socket, all in a nice case. its all you'll ever need for the most part.
buy the odd ball stuff as you need it. if you got a harbor freight near you, they sell all sorts of cheap tools, not all that good to be used daily in a professional shop, but for your own use they work just fine.
We have a family farm and home (rural king, big r, Etc type store) that sells things as cheap or cheaper than the big places...the only thing we use ace for is wasting money lol. They sell 1ft sections of PVC for $2...what a ripoff. Ok nevermind there is a good reason to go there...they have really cute dogs!
I just went to Kmart and bought a craftsman mechanic tool kit on sale. They have the same one at Home Depot but the gas is roughly equal so I just bought it local to save some time.
It came with everything I need minus a torque wrench. At least for now.
I was wondering this:
If the rubber seal on the gas cap is slightly loosing its seal would this cause the starting issue I have?
I'm just trying to rule out everything before I get down and dirty. Besides I plan on getting a locking gas cap anyhow.
gas cap, if its leaking would cause a evap code. the cap also has a vent in it, they check it at inspection here. dont think its enough to keep it from running tho.
It runs smoothly. Its the initial start only that I have to give a little gas.
If not it turns over, starts and then by the time the revs make it to idle speed it shuts down. Right before then is when I tap the gas and it revs up and stays running. Drives wonderfully as soon as it starts. "Once its started it stays," Lloyd Christmas
that could be the fuel pressure regulator going bad if that has not been brought up before. no codes will pop up for that one. most complain of a first start of the day, it will start and then stall out, then fire up and be ok the rest of the day.
its in the fuel rail, (the round part) not sure if you can test it. iirc they run around 20 to 30 bucks.
not sure after just surfing around if the 04 has one due to its a return less fuel system. only one fuel line to the rail. not 2 like the older 97-03.
I have this same problem, with the same 0455 code as well.. I noticed when I remote started my car this morning for work, it just kept turning over... It eventually started, and like everyday I park on an incline ( for me its the front of the car Higher than the back ) it runs fine after the initial cold start..
For me the last thing Ill buy is a gas cap as it has not fixed the issue on either of my prior 3800s..
As I see it there is only a few things led to that code
- Vapor canister purge valve ( GM-ACDelco p/n - 2141105 )
- Vapor canister vent solenoid ( assuming this is the purge solonoid )
- EGR
- Vacuum leak
Now the vapor canister vent solenoid , I believe is what goes bad, the one under the rear drivers fenderwell
Comatoast. (Like the name btw) the locking gas cap was more than an attempt at fixing the code problem. I planned on buying one anyways to prevent the local moped gangs from siphoning me like they did in the old cars. Just wait till they roll up! I'll get some pics. In the meantime...
I'm plannin on digging in today or tomorrow.
I just bought a 94 piece took set so I good there
Is there anything else I should have on hand when checking the solenoids and lines?
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