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Yeah, 48% up to 3200, then it drops. I never crushed the accelerator during that log, only rolled into it. And I just noticed the base PE A/F is messed up in that bin. That's not the values that were originally there, I messed with them for some reason and forgot I did. I changed them back 11.7 over 40 Celsius.Quote:
Originally Posted by 99GT2dr
That reminds me, is there a way to convert everything in DHP to Fahrenheit instead of Celsius? I can't think in Celsius.
I believe it's in the scantool options.
options, editor options, then units. check english.
noobslap. Sheesh, I bet I looked for 10 minutes. Feel dumb, but elated at the same time....Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
dont feel bad. someone had to tell me how to change it too. and i also thought i clicked it all lol
Paying it forward :) Thanks. Hey, you have a wideband hooked up to dhp? I have an AEM and wired it up right, ground to same as gauge, but for some reason it will stop reporting in DHP after 3 minutes. I kinda wonder if it's not reporting too fast. I changed it to slow, but it updates the same while scanning. And I have 2 exe's to open DHP. I thought one was to be used only for scanning, for some reason. But the only on that gives me an option to select my analog inputs is the "non scanning" version?Quote:
Originally Posted by Scottydoggs
I would highly suggest the use of UVScanner instead of the dhp scanner. the dhp scanners is less effective, loses data, doesn't collect as much data, and in your case fails when you try to use your wideband. when you install the uvscanner software, I think you need to make sure you have only one version downloaded, and I have had the most luck with the newest version of the uvscanner. I have a wideband O2 sensor as well, and couldn't get it to to work with dhp software, when I started using uvscanner it just worked.
I am using UV now, thanks! I could only get one version to work, but I see no way of adjusting my wideband sensor analog input. It reads the voltage fine, but I can't find a way to adjust the formula. Looks like different versions are supported, but not my AEM wideband. I found UV scanner v3 online just now. It has a different interface, but on my windows 8 it acts goofy. When the windows are expanded, the top half is missing and I can't move them.Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
try deleting all the uv scanner software you have and download this version. I think it is the one I'm using, and if it is, it is the newest one I have seen.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/g884dg0a6e...canII.zip?dl=0
I'll try it out, thanks! I was finally able to get wideband logged. I just did the egr wire method. Thanks to reptile and 99GT I can now say I'm knock free :)Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
Just have some issues with high ltft at idle and decel. I just replaced the vacuum lines. Here is a log I took today before new vac lines. What really helped was using TT to zero out the "AFR Spark" table. I seen that suggested by dark horizon. I think that table adds up to 6° of spark as the commanded AFR goes down. Now I need to add in some spark to the good fuel tables. Car feels OK, just a little flat.
Is 7lbs boost what I should be seeing with my mods? I've bypassed the boost selenoid (which I went through the trouble of wiring in) because with it hooked up my boost won't go above 3.5 for some reason. I've tried two different selenoids.
you dont want a lot of boost. more boost equals more pressure in the engine/intake manifold, and more pressure equals more heat, so I would think that 7 lbs is pretty reasonable considering a stock m90 makes 6-8 lbs. my xp cam, ported heads, intercooled car only makes 9 lbs. I wouldn't bother messing with the boost bypass valve solenoid, it only cuts boost in low traction situations and when the car is in reverse. you dont need the BBV solenoid.
Yeah, was just kinda getting an idea if I was in the ballpark. I know ideally you want the best flow through the engine, resulting in less boost vs stock.Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
I got back from some country romps. I bumped the timing a bit and the car feels a lot better. I had 2-3 blips of 2 degree KR. I think I'm good now to follow the logs for maf/ve tuning. Found a small vac leak in the vac tree on top of the blower. Should have not tried to use the lines i pulled from the yard. My idle ltft is a little better. The bbv solenoid was an attempt to keep it a factory as possible. When I put new vac lines in I just left it out. Oh well.
What I still cant understand is how to relate a scan log to the tables in DHP. I'm trying to find the points to adjust timing. In DHP "good spark" table, the table is in mg/cylinder, from 80 to 680. In UVscanner, I am logging MAF frequency and MAF(g/s). So for instance this is a line I have:
How do I find the exact place in the "good spark" table to edit timing?Code:Count Inj PW MAF(g/s) MAF ECT AFR Wideband O2 IAT KR LTFT STFT MAP(kPa) Spark RPM TP % MPH Gear PE MPC
2307 11.18 65.82 6347.17 213.8 11.8 13.96 794.22 132.8 0.703125 5.47 0.00 112 10.5 1689.25 89.0 42.26 2 1 779.28
2308 14.83 98.35 7372.56 213.8 11.8 12.58 898.38 132.8 1.93359375 0.00 0.00 147 12 2685.5 100.0 42.88 2 1 732.45
One more thing, anyone had the "service traction system" and "trac off" popup when going WOT? It has happened a couple times. Car feels the same, and the lights don't come back when I restart. Car never did this stock, is there something in the tune that could be triggering this?
There are a couple applications to load the scan log data into and then to make adjustments to. Table modifier scan data thing works pretty good.
When your TCS comes in its probably because of wheel spin or slip. When you are going to be driving aggressively try turning your TCS off
edit: more information. you can use table modifier to do maf adjustments and ve adjustments, add or remove timing and create a new mean best torque spark table, and I'm sure there are other things it will do that aren't coming to mind.
Not unless I am getting wheel spin at 80mph, lol. I can dream...Quote:
Originally Posted by SgtMarshal
Its not just traction control though, I get "service traction system" in my dic and the "trac off" light comes on and stays on till I restart. Went to Advance and pulled code c1276 from history. Won't lose any sleep over it, but I just spent 200 for new front hubs. They were toast, grinding and squeeling, thought for sure that would resolve the warnings though.
Is your ABS light on too?
Could be an abs module or wire problem too
No abs light.Quote:
Originally Posted by JoRoW99
Yeah, a little searching showed its kinda common for the front wires to get corroded or pulled. There is a tsb and they have an extended harness that is less likely to snag when suspension travels. It did just start after I had the front on jack stands for several days. Could have pulled something. I'll check that next. Thanks.
I usually go to the dealership for a diagnoses because they can usually say exactly what is wrong