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10-06-2014
Is it not correct for me to take my average data and then multiply % by half to get them in check?
I have supplied a compare file of what/how much it would change vs my trims average. It appears it wants to add more fuel in the upper hz than take away in the lower..
10-07-2014
Why
10-07-2014
Needs maf cal thats why. I did not do it "this way" i made an alternative value per trims and getting them closer.
10-08-2014
But why change the maf cal to change these numbers? The end result is the same if you change this crap or not. If you put a broken maf curve on there then when you do need to rely on fuel trims it will no longer be accurate.
10-08-2014
U suggest using a stock maf chart ?
10-08-2014
If you have a stock maf why would the calibration of it be wrong?
10-08-2014
I dunno. I was trying to suggest to OP
wonder why 90% of "tuning" guides and eddies table modifiers etc all focus on calibrating the maf
10-08-2014
I guess people have to feel good about buying a $700 hptuners somehow.Originally Posted by crazyguy03
10-08-2014
A stock maf cal would be correct if the intake is still stock, if that's case then youre issue lies else where
10-08-2014
If you put a cam into an engine your drawing in tons more air. Your trims will tell you that besides logic. Thus you need to fix it or you set a cel for a lean condition. In my case I am not cammed yet but am on a lq4 maf I forgot to add but on a stock maf table. But the table has been modified by myself and the last owner to get the wot afr's in check. Everything below say 6000hz is untouched. Numbers like -12-9 need to be fixed. I am starting to get them down by touching the maf table. I still have yet to find the "correct" way to do so. Some say one thing some say another. Darkhorizon seems to know his **** but never comes out and just tells you. Just hints and your getting warmer.
What is the best way to get my trims in check then? Play with the injectors?
For example going off the guides of tuning is bull****. Get your afr's at 11.5 and go from there. No thanks..been there tried that. My mods at 11.5 afr I can only run 11* of timing. If I drop it to 10.6-10.8ish I can run 16* and noticeably faster.
To back that statement up the car ran a best of 13.4@103 on the "richer tune" how I got it. When I messed with it I ran a 13.9@99.
10-08-2014
If your engine is drawing in tons more air, the MAF reads the additional air, which is why the hz values go up...
10-08-2014
the AMOUNT of air coming into your engine is measured by the maf sensor. If you increase or decrease that amount the sensor SENSES it... You are not changing the way the sensor reads that air so if it was right before the cam it will be right after the cam.
For the most part, your o2 sensor starts to suck at reading stuff when you put a cam in. It is finely tuned to ignore the amount of "fresh air" that runs through your exhaust naturally so if you increase or decrease that amount then you will throw off the switch points and ultimately create rich or lean conditions with the narrowband... its not the maf sensors fault at that point.
The problem with changing your maf table is that if you change the slope of it in the lower end then you can defeat any ability for your PCM to use the narrowband correctly as your "locking trims" will be incorrect.
If you have a signfiicant problem with LTFT's and your settings in the PCM are correct, then you most likely have a mechanical issue. if you have installed aftermarket injectors then there is a chance that the injectors are just off a bit, so you should adjust your injector table to bring the LTFT in an acceptable range.
The key to tuning your car once then forgetting about it is either learning how to work with the narrowband or just disable it all together. Adjusting the maf table to compensate for mechanical issues (like the o2 sensor fresh air pulses, fuel pressure issues, etc) is a sure fire way to make working with the narrowband a very difficult task.
10-08-2014
Follow the Russ k guide http://www.hptuners.com/forum/showth...oop-Maf-Tuning but instead of unplugging your upstream you can simply now set your closed loop to enable at a much higher temp like say 200*. You can follow this to set your fuel trims perfectly and then you can just adjust the 7500+ hz manually by adding fuel ( multiply cells by say .95 -.99) or pull fuel by multiplying 1.01-1.05 depending how far off you are at that hz/rpm in your scanner. Try to do steady pulls in 2nd gear.
10-08-2014
^not a good idea for reasons described above. Luckily we've learned more now in the last 7 years.
10-08-2014
But if you change your intake as stated above then your maf calibration is going to be thrown off from stock.
10-08-2014
The problem we have is no "correct" injector value just oh its close enough for 42.5's etc. The car just does work and does it fine for the most part and most don't care. For some knowing and fine tuning is the way to be.
Injector table wise it only goes to 100 kpa in the file but in reality the scan hits 160 at wot. What does someone do then? Is there a trick??
Now for idle/part throttle trims as seen in the scan....
At idle is states 36kpa. Would I modify the 30-40kpa table then? Or closer to 0-10kpa? Do I up the value a tad to lessen fuel?? This is where I get lost if the wot scan goes to 160+ but have no data to change for this area I the tune. Then for the part throttle do I adjust from 40-60ish kpa? Do you see where im coming from?
10-08-2014
You have accounted for your maf upgrade right?
10-08-2014
It is a stock maf table that has been modified by the previous owner.
10-08-2014
Then I don't understand how a stock maf table works on a LQ4 maf
10-08-2014
Beats me but the car has been running this way for 5+ years when he had it. Now I have it. Like I said the maf table has been manipulated by him.
His quote just now was "0 out VE, maf error histogram, copy paste special, rinse repeat may times" This is jogging his memory from 5+ years ago.
Last edited by PWNED; 10-08-2014 at 08:35 PM.
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