Thread: cat removed new problem

Originally Posted by matt5112

This wont cause kr.

So your telling me my Aeroforce gauge is telling me false KR? Even when im running rich? With my mods you would think so but why would it show KR under light throttle and before certain shifts? I'll go up a ramp and with light throttle around (35-45mph) under load it'll show KR like it has and ill let off the throttle and gently get back into it to drop the KR and it'll go away. Never even touching boost also if I do it'll show KR. Let alone my ltft's never stay constant running rich +, some days they'll fluctuate and lean into the -. When i crank it in the morning sometimes it'll not start the first time try it again and its fine for the rest of the day. Like its forgot or the start up tables are wrong, etc. But those morning runs I'll cruise and its smoother like it should be, I can hear the intake the ltft will be around 0-.7 to 1.5 or 2.5 which is when it seems best. Though cruising the ltft should not be 0, example: if im using less then 20-25% throttle and I see 0 on the ltft thats not good because correct me if im wrong you wanna hit 0 or around there for running WOT. After its up to operating temperature 195+ the ltft will usually go + around 3.9 to 5 or 6.8 even 7+ thats casual to heavy stop and go this is way to rich, that cat diagnostics test keeps making it dump fuel to test the cat and im just drowning cylinders with fuel, if I have to stop abruptly and go the car will actually stall or it feels like jumping out of gear. After its warmed up I dont hear the intake anymore I use to hear that filter whine,whistle,whoosh,etc all the time under all acceleration, why not now? If I do a 2 gear 30mph WOT it'll pull nice showed no misfires but the car would hold back then break loose and go harder. Its like 10mph roll, WOT pulls hard, then jumps and pulls even harder like it should like the car was before just WOT and it went until you let off the throttle. Make any sense? I think its the dp along with the rear o2 emulator ****ing with the stock tune. Im running a new M90 Gen3 with stock pulley, so boost has not changed at all. Is it my plugs running AL606@ .60, thought you didn't change those until you drop supercharger pulleys, etc or could it be the ZZP Stg2 P&P heads? Does anyone else aftermarket heads?

mods
Plog,crossover, rear pen, 3"catless dp with O2 delete,rear o2 emulator, ZZP Stg2 P&P heads, 4" fwi, Al606 @ .60, solid engine/trans mounts, zzp stiffer oil pressure volume spring, ARP bottom to top, etc

Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch

Seeing as you car is newer than most, it runs a different cat check/rear o2 fueling that the older cars.

Not having a cat and being not tuned for it are going to make the car act all sorts of funny and you'll seee that blakc out the tail pipe and terrible gas mileage.

So if I get a tune for my catless dp everything will be fine? How will they delete the cat diagnostics test? If they dont it'll dump full all the time to keep checking for a cat on top of a tune which would not be a good tune since you wouldn't have a locked in afr or even consistent ltft & stft tables. So tuning is not the key it'll help but the cat diagnostics test is what we need to eliminate before we can even rule anything out tune or etc

So drill/tap my dp & weld a bung for a rear o2. Or order a do with a bung etc.

Originally Posted by Overboost101

Nope never heard, but if I order another dp with cat it'll always be better then factory cat. So wouldn't the hi Flo catted dp do the same thing, even if I got the dp with the bung for my o2 wouldn't the car still read my rear o2 again and still give me the same problem because the signals between the o2's and pcm would be off, and the pcm would notice the different cat and still give me the same problem of running rich and causes my ltft's to go crazy and stay +.

If you're running rich your LTFT's will be in the negative(-) NOT in the postive(+) You got that backwards!
If your LTFT's are staying positive you likely have a vac leak.

Damn so days it fluctuates and goes negative and stays negative for awhile the vacuum leaks not there? Notice my car will stall or jump out of gear on tight left turns so I dont turn the wheel all the way just enough. The throttles not as sensitive as it use to be especially with boost, boost just seems off like i have to really force the throttle percentage to boost.

My mods are AL606 gapped at .60, factory SC pulley, ZZP STG2 P&P heads 105lbs springs etc, Comp Cam pushrods factory length, factory cam, 4" FWI, PLOG, rear PEM, crossover, 3" catless dp, rear O2 delete with O2 emulator along with proper DTC`s via HPTuners.

So I'm about to order another dp from ZZP, what one should I order with my mods. My current exhaust setup is plog, crossover, rear pem, mates to a 3" catless dp exits at 2.5 with a rear o2 delete" mates to the factory 2.25" catback exhaust. I want a cat but I do wanna go turbo later with a rear plog setup, and would love to run catless but, I'm not sure if that would give me problems, also I don't even know. If the ZZP dp would work with the turbo setup etc. But I need to know which dp to order from ZZP, size wise to match my mods and possibly my future turbo setup. Like I've stated before future turbo setup if the dp will not work that's not a problem. I'll manage and build a turbo setup another way. My main concern is to order a dp as soon as possible, that's best matched for my mods. I know the catback is fine but, dunno when it becomes restriction believe it's around 350whp? either way I need help with dp matching with my mods. Any help please it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

There is a post about 2001 and newer cars and the rich issue. It's a cat diagnostic. You need to run the rear o2. Plus you don't want a wideband that far back.

On the P0171, did you check for vacuum leaks and things?

So bill could you help me out?

My mods are AL606 gapped at .60, factory SC pulley, ZZP STG2 P&P heads 105lbs springs etc, Comp Cam pushrods factory length, factory cam, 4" FWI, PLOG, rear PEM, crossover, 3" catless dp, rear O2 delete with O2 emulator along with proper DTC`s via HPTuners.

So I'm about to order another dp from ZZP, what one should I order with my mods. My current exhaust setup is plog, crossover, rear pem, mates to a 3" catless dp exits at 2.5 with a rear o2 delete(no bung)" mates to the factory 2.25" catback exhaust. I want a cat but I do wanna go turbo later with a rear plog setup, and would love to run catless but, I'm not sure if that would give me problems, also I don't even know. If the ZZP dp would work with the turbo setup etc. But I need to know which dp to order from ZZP, size wise to match my mods and possibly my future turbo setup. Like I've stated before future turbo setup if the dp will not work that's not a problem. I'll manage and build a turbo setup another way. My main concern is to order a dp as soon as possible, that's best matched for my mods. I know the catback is fine but, dunno when it becomes restriction believe it's around 350whp? either way I need help with dp matching with my mods. Any help please it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

Originally Posted by KeithGTP03

I talked with the tuners around here (reputable), and there was nothing they could do.

thanks for the heads up

Getting a catted dp with a bung to fix my problem.
Thanks for all the help everyone.

Ryan

Originally Posted by 99PGPGT

Any downpipe you buy from zzp isn't gonna work with a turbo. If anything, buy a plog so you get rid of the front manifold restriction

I've got a plog and the supporting none tubeless header manifolds, (crossover, rear pem) lol only because its fine, I'd never wanna drop no smaller then a 3.5 pulley. Also I could still use the front plog for a turbo setup, just didn't know about the dp turbo setup compatibly so thanks for the help.

Ryan

ZZP downpipe is going to have the a high flow cat which isn't going to do its job well. It will throw a P0420.

What you need is a cat like this: Magnaflow 446009_Universal CALIFORNIA OBDII CONVERTERS

Its pricey, but it works quite well.

Why do you have this spread over multiple threads?

You say you're getting a new DP here, but don't mention which one.

In the other thread you mention its a ZZP, it's going to throw a P0420 unless you use a defouler.

Keep your issues confined to one thread so people can follow the entire story.

Originally Posted by matt5112

Why do you have this spread over multiple threads?

You say you're getting a new DP here, but don't mention which one.

In the other thread you mention its a ZZP, it's going to throw a P0420 unless you use a defouler.

Keep your issues confined to one thread so people can follow the entire story.

Sorry about that it'll never happen, I just need to solve my ltft's from staying pos. I was going to order another 3" dp, with a welded in bung so I can put my rear o2 back in there and remove that o2 sum. So I was looking at the zzp 3" catted welded bung dp, to fix my issue. I don't think I've got a vacuum leak, I've checked with break cleaner and im knowledgeable of the vacuum system. Just rebuilt the engine everything's new, I know the 3800 top to bottom and the mechanic that helped was family. He could roll oversized bearings into a engine with rod knock, very smart, experienced, etc. I think its that my current dp with the 05pcm, along with a rear o2 delete giving me my problems. Also what's a defouler? O2 extension? If so where to get one for are setups, or they're all the same?

Sorry for the thread hopping.
Thanks for all the help.

Ryan

Matt I can't just order a cat or catless 3"dp with a bung for my rear o2? That will not fix my problem of my ltft's fluctuating with a mind of there own, they've never gone past 10 pos+ or neg-. So what do you recommend? Anybody else have a answer? I can do a scan for everyone, via HPTuners what would y'all want me to log, so everyone can understand. parameters, histograms, etc.