Loose steering after replacing intermediate steering shaft on 06 GP GT

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

I had a clunking noise coming from the column in my new to me GP GT. I was told it was the intermediate steering shaft. I replaced it with the Dohrman brand (PN 425-155) $87.11 this afternoon via instructions from another forum. I was being careful not to turn the steering wheel while performing the replacement and had a bungee cord attached to the steering wheel and brake pedal. After I put everything back together, I noticed the steering has about an inch of rotational play before engaging the steering. Any clue what would cause this? Will an alignment fix the issue or should I worry something else is wrong?

**Scottydoggs** · 06-01-2015

your rack may of been the issue to start with. i had a rack with internal slop in it. got a reman one.

or your tie rods are shot to hell, but a shop should have caught that if it was the case.

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

Thanks scottydoggs.

I just bought the car Saturday 111K miles and the steering seemed to be ok other than the wheel was slightly rotated to the left roughly 10 degrees/ 11'oclock position. I have an alignment scheduled in 2 days to get it checked.

While replacing the I-shaft, I noticed the DS outer tie rod end boot was cracked and looks like they are original.

Should I replace the tie rod ends before the alignment to see if that fixes it?

Moog outer tie rod ends
ES3459
$60.99 each at advance auto (TRT41 will cut $40 off $100)
$32.00 each Amazon prime

Is it safe to drive for a couple days until I get it checked?

**Scottydoggs** · 06-01-2015

change parts, then get it aligned.

jack the wheel up, push and pull at 3 o clock on the wheel, if you feel it move or click the tie rod is bad.

mine i had to lock my steering wheel put both wheels in the air and i had a friend push one wheel on the steering lock, while i pulled and pushed. all was tight till we pushed both wheels back and fourth , they moved a good inch and the steering wheel didnt even come close to moving.

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

I noticed my steering didn't lock when changing the I-shaft. Is this a sign of anything?

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

What's an indicator/test that the rack is bad?

**Scottydoggs** · 06-01-2015

o6 may not lock. iirc there was a thread a ways back about it. 04 up i think the wheel dont lock.

if you got some help id have some one hold the wheel firmly. then wheels off the ground see if you can move the wheels with out the steering wheel moving.

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

Just purchased 2 Moog tie rod ends and a couple sway bar links for $79 using discount code WD5222 at advance auto using Retailmenot.com $50 off $125. Had to throw in $5 worth of something to get the discount.

My dad has an 07 GP GT and is checked his to see if his locks. No lock.

**stealthee** · 06-01-2015

06 doesn't lock

I changed my ISS, due to a "binding."

As soon as I replaced it I noticed slop in the steering. I replaced my rack and tie rod ends after that and it cured everything.

**HighOctaneRacing** · 06-01-2015

My 06 doesn't lock. Also I hate to break it to you but Dorman's ISS are crappy. I would've personally just got the grease kit from the dealer and re-greased the OEM one despite the fact that Dorman has a sealed unit design. GM has also made a sealed unit one for our cars too but some are hit or miss when it comes to longevity. There is a mush higher chance of success re-lubing the orignal one that came with your car.

Also check the inner tie rods for play. The easiest way is to unbolt the outer tie rod but leave it on the inner tie rod and then move it up and let it go. If it falls really fast, your inners are worn.

**stealthee** · 06-01-2015

Pretty sure Dorman redesigned their ISS. Mine out of the box looked built better than the OEM one I removed.

**stealthee** · 06-01-2015

Also, GM no longer recommends the relube. Newer TSB says to replace.

**HighOctaneRacing** · 06-01-2015

Originally Posted by stealthee

Pretty sure Dorman redesigned their ISS. Mine out of the box looked built better than the OEM one I removed.

Unfortunetly they didn't redesign it. It will look better than OE considering it's a sealed unit vs the non-sealed one.

Originally Posted by stealthee

Also, GM no longer recommends the relube. Newer TSB says to replace.

GM owes money... why recommend a $5-$10 fix when you can get much more by selling the whole unit?

if you do find out that your inner tie rods are shot, this'll help. I've done this twice on 4 w-bodies. gets easier each time lol

**stealthee** · 06-01-2015

The only reason GM recommended the relube at first is because they couldn't supply all the new ISS's.

With the way mine felt I don't think a relube would have cured it.

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

I tried to check the outer tie rods by lifting the front end and pushing on the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and it was hard to tell on my own. I disconnected the outer tie rid ends and they were shot. I did what highoctaineracing said to do by raising and allowing the tie ros to fall and they both seemed fine with resistance and didn't fall or move. The DS seemed to be a little easier to move but not much.

after comparing the old outer to the new MOOG tie rod ends, I put them on at the same lock nut location. Still seem to have the same amount of play.

Does anyone know what a faulty ISS will do? It just seems odd that here wasn't any play before hand and now there is about 1 inch. I'm thinking I might try to lube the old ISS up and see if it's any different.

I still have an appointment to get the alignment checked on Wednesday(2days), in which they perform a multipoint inspection along with it.

I'll have to wait and see. I'll repost if I find anything out tomorrow or after the alignment check.

Any reason to worry about driving it 40 miles(20 miles to work and back) with that much play?

Thanks guys!

**Scottydoggs** · 06-01-2015

drive it. as long as you can control it.

i say its the rack. so an alignments a waste if you change the rack down the road. unless you got a warranty on the alignment like at firestone or something.

**stealthee** · 06-01-2015

The ISS hid the issue with the rack.

On mine there was a binding/thunking of sorts at dead center, then it would "break free."

The binding was caused by the ISS. Once the ISS was replaced the binding was solved, however I now felt the play that was in the rack.

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

What part number for the rack? I noticed there are several on both advance auto and rock auto.
How difficult is changing the rack?
How long does it take?

**Tross901** · 06-01-2015

They shouldn't perform the alignment of the rack if it is bad right?
My company has a deal with a dealership where they pick up the car from work and perform a multi-point inspection and perform work requested along with any additional work after you are notified and authorized. They won't charge me anything for picking it up and not performing anything other than the inspection.

**Scottydoggs** · 06-01-2015

you need to check if you have magna steer or not, theres a wire off the rack where the iss shaft bolts on to it.

my fist time out it took about 3 hours. the last time took me about a hour.

theres vids on you tube, im to tired to search for it.