BTW the pic captions are where all the info is in that article. Slideshow it. No need for primo heads, just good machine work and the right parts.
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BTW the pic captions are where all the info is in that article. Slideshow it. No need for primo heads, just good machine work and the right parts.
She was good and warm. Fortunately, the only thing they care about is if your gas cap seals and what's coming out your pipes. They even mirror checked it and didn't say anything about it not having a cat. That's why I'm strongly considering dumping the old Qjet and putting a 600 CFM Edelbrock on there. I know people say "a properly tuned Qjet will perform just as well as an aftermarket carb" and that's probably true, but how many people know how to properly tune one, and how long does it take to learn...Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivejunk
$310 for a 600 CFM electric choke, "tuned for maximum efficiency" performer carb. Plus $22 for the 700R4 TV cable bracket and I'd be just about spot on. And it would be something I could mess with.
You're preaching to the choir, brother! When I got my 454 short box, the previous owner had been fed up with the Q-Jet and swapped on an EPS 750.
It didn't fit the manifold so they installed the goofiest spacer ever manufactured, an adapter. It whistled, for crying out loud. Behind the seat was the Q-Jet in the Eddy box. I fixed it, put it back on and smoky burnouts again. My 69 GP had tri-power at the time and I had to have something else. Had a P4B intake so I put the Edelbrock carb on it and have many happy stories to tell since then. Never looked back. That EPS is perfect, IMO. Easy to tune, and stays that way for... as far as I can tell... ever. Got like 100K on it now and love it. Get you one!
The Q-Jet is truly a more versatile carb but yes more complex. I cut my baby teeth gnawing on one, they came out when I was born lol. The EPS has few issues and comes with a tune that might be near perfect on your hard working 305. They tend to be lean in cruise mode but if you have your HEI curve nailed and use decent gas you may not need to touch it. Just be sure to get a manifold that matches with NO adapters, you might be suprised how many combos don't, so double check before purchasing. And remember- when you go big block, you'll have no use for a 600 and can't re-body it like a Holley.
I really don't want to buy an intake just to run the square bore Edelbrock. I'd probably compromise and use an adapter till I got the vortec heads and air gap intake on there.
If your existing intake is a spread bore, I'm tellin ya you don't want that... but its your truck. SBC secondhand intakes get pretty cheap, like into adapter price range. That adapter is somewhere around here, hmm. Like half the venturi area is a straight shot to the plenum, its goofy. If you want air gap, stick a Pontiac in there, they all have that! Just more pokin at you because I want the truck. Seriously, if you liked the blue collar build, theres a very inexpensive SBC build idea using 90s Chevy truck stuff in the October CC mag. 385+TQ anytime over 3 grand, tops at 400, with 300 peak TQ. Plan right, buy once. Good luck with all this. It will be a fun ride from minute one no matter what.
Eventually the factory spread bore manifold is going buh buy. Have to upgrade incrementally.
Just find a dirt road and roll up the sides of your hat, yee-haw! Step on it, she'll make it.
Sorry for that outburst, I've had this one stuck in my head all day-
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-slubEJoDmo
I know, going back n forth from Slayer to Hank can't be right but it works for me.
I check and they are 4 ply if i read it right rated at like 18xxlbsQuote:
Originally Posted by JamesIvey24
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/08...c05be2d7dd.jpg
Free vape stuff Ftw!!
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God dammit.
I took the plunge and spent 50 bucks on a website subscription to learn about the 6L80/6L90e transmissions, because my truck has one and I wanted to learn more about them and how to tune them.
From what I gather, this douche bag that runs the site just wants to have people ask questions and then ask to charge them 250-350 bucks to have him write you a tune for the vehicle. Sure some info "might" be helpful but there is literally no extra infomation on there that I couldnt have already read and learned from the HP Tuners board. It seems that I already know how to tune the transmission better than he can on stock based vehicles.
He says the website is for all 6L80e based vehicles but he only really deals with the camaro, ctsv, G8 and anything else car related and doesnt even include much of anything about trucks/vans that run the same motors/transmission.
Not saying he is a hack by any means and I know he knows more than I do about certain situations and underlying issues with these transmissions, but in the end I feel cheated out of my 50 bucks and I'm kinda mad about it.
https://vimeo.com/136449993
Boom
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Then stop payment on your credit cardQuote:
Originally Posted by Fivefingerdeathpunch
It's a one time payment through paypal so I can't stop it and you had to pay to get a login in screen name.
I have it now and who knows if I'll ever need the website again.
Easy there vapist.Quote:
Originally Posted by theaceofspades
Sent from my LG G3
Somedays its hard to talk to my grandpa. Like today he asked me to look at the brakes on his truck because I noticed them squeaking once after a 2 hour highway trip with the trailer. But for the 2 days after its been fine and no squeaking even on the return trip they didnt squeak. So I told him they are fine, i had looked at them months prior before the caliper started to stick and the rotors weren't grooved nor were pads low. Then I proceeded to tell him the jack we have wont lift his truck anyway because even lifting my car before i can get stands under it I can watch it slowly sink. So he starts ranting on how i was supposed to buy another jack and how his truck is unreliable because the front axle seals leak, and the trans cooler line has a small leak (which btw have been leaking since at least last year), and it has 1 broken exhaust manifold stud and how he has to get a loan from someone to fix it? But idk if thats true. I know you're thinking "why don't you fix it?" Simply I don't trust myself to do the axle seals, the trans cooler lines I probably can do, exhaust manifold stud is out of the question he shouldn't even have that fixed imo.
Sounds a little like my uncle and just likes to complain. I love my uncle very much. He is like a second dad to me. My aunt always jokes that I am her "first born". Anyway, my cousins will call me to come over and help them with something. We'll already have a game plan on how to do it and he comes and butts in and complains that it isn't how they used to do it, and we're doing it wrong, and it will never work the way we're doing it. My cousins end up arguing with him, while I simply tell him, we are doing it the way it needs to be done. He tried to argue with me, and I simply tell him to trust me.
He usually walks off to the house mumbling, then usually comes back 15 minutes later to see how we're doing. LOL
Is this the avalanche? If so, give me the year and engine and I'll help guide you with the seals. Also take a clear pic of the broken exhaust bolt..Quote:
Originally Posted by Russosaur
Sent from my LG G3
Yeah the avalanche, its an 08 with the 5.3. As for the broken exhaust bolt I have no idea which one. Its just what he told me when the shop did a multipoint inspection. I'm probably gonna slide under it tomorrow and see how much of a job its going to be for the cooler lines.
Cooler lines are "easy" but time consuming. The 4L60e lines are easier than the 6L80e lines on the 09+ models.
The axle seals are harder. I find it faster to remove the whole front diff from the truck. The passenger side axle tube must be removed to get that side done because of the snap ring/spring clip that you need to remove. The cv axle flange dealio won't release unless that whole tube that is bolted to the side of the diff is removed. Drivers side can be popped out of the diff once the cv axle is moved out of the way.
And that axle tube as many pieces inside it, couple springs and **** that you don't want to **** up because if one part isnt in the right spot it can wreck the whole thing.