Thread: honda brake job

i just picked up a brake job, its a 99 honda accord. any one here know what type of bolts hold the calipers on? regular bolts, torx or something else? i don't normally work on imports but the money will be nice.

trying to save a trip to the parts store for a lousy tool. i want this to be a one stop shop. ill have the parts before the i get the car.

From what I came up from googling and replacement caliper pins, I seen regular bolts.

thanks, im i little f ed up right now lol i forgot about google

Lol... from what I seen it was all regular.

Some of the best things are found on google when F'd up

I hope you aren't doing rotors as well. I know on my 94 accord the rotors are BEHIND the wheel bearings making it a PITA job to do.

lets hope its not like that im doing the front rotors for sure, he ate it, i told him 2 weeks ago to do the brakes, but he waited till it went metal to metal.

they should be pretty easy to do, the rotor are infront of the wheel bearing, so your safe there.

The caliper I think are screw in style, again not a issue.

Its a pretty straight forward job.

just hex head bolts...nothing crazy like the torx on a sunfire lol

ok i can breath again lol sounds like a normal brake job. never know till its on a jack.

lol...no one said they weren't goin to strip once ur into the project..lol


just razzin ya!




















OK...SERIOUSLY, THATS NOT FUNNY AND I PROBABLY SHOULDN'T HAVE SAID IT.

its funny cause its true lol

i wont be held accountable if anything strips and / or breaks on this project...

I have a little too much experience with Honda's as I replaced literally every part including the Engine and Transmission except the Unibody of the vehicle on my 95 Accord. 94-97 the front brake rotors are behind the bearing hub which makes it a pain the first time you experience it, but now I do it pretty quick with extended bolts and an air chisel. For 99 the rotors would be normal except Honda decided to put 2 phillips head screws on the rotors. You need heat from a propane torch and an impact hammer. I use this one Impact Screwdriver Set with Case If you strip the threads you'll need to drill them out. I usually break the Phillips bits in the set and have to turn it in for the lifetime warranty by the end of the job. I didn't have any propane so I got one screw out on each side, but then had to drill out the other 2. I forget for 99, but if you're replacing the rear rotors, they have the Phillips screws in the 94-97 with rear discs. The calipers for the rear are screw in and the fronts are regular push in. For my rear caliper screw ins, I use this: 18 Piece Disc Brake Pad and Caliper Service Tool Kit (They have stores in NJ and I always use their coupons) You can usually just screw them in with needle nose pliers, but I had to use that tool as the rear brake line was shot and the one caliper was frozen. After I broke it loose, it works good now.

So, recommended tools besides the usual:
Impact screwdriver
Propane torch
Disc brake pad and caliper service tool kit

so what if i have to drill these Philips head screws out? do they need to be replace or do i just slap on the rotors like a normal car?

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

so what if i have to drill these Philips head screws out? do they need to be replace or do i just slap on the rotors like a normal car?

Sorry, I knew I forgot something. Everybody I know including me throws them away. They're basically there to line up the rotor without the wheel on. When you torque the wheel back on, they'll be like any other set of rotors.

O and one more tool, a 2-4 lb sledge hammer for the impact screw driver.

thanks for the info, damn foreign cars.

twist in calipers, never knew that, could have been a fun time fvcking them up lol i appreciate that heads up.

Originally Posted by scottydoggs

thanks for the info, damn foreign cars.

twist in calipers, never knew that, could have been a fun time fvcking them up lol i appreciate that heads up.

NP, I hate working on them, but I know a bit about them. Only the rear calipers are twist in. I think because of the emergency brake.

I'm always saying f*ing Honda, f*ing Honda. But Nissan is probably the worst because everything is designed to be so cramped. Sister's boyfriend has 2 300 ZX's. One of them the twin turbo. They're always fun to work on when he asks for a hand

that was a fun little job, turned out he was on the squealers and had some pad left, the rears turned out to be drums, all the drums and rotors were in nice shape so he wanted to save money so i just did the pads and shoes.

nice spring clip on the rears too, that holds the shoes to the backing plate, what moron came up with that crap idea.

You made out lucky then. My original 95 Accord had the drums, the replacement 95 Accord now has the discs all the way around and so did the later year Accords I've worked on. I remember cursing at those rear shoes a couple times. I was about to convert it to disc. They do other stupid stuff like a second air idler control of sorts in the throttle body. The car had a high idle like almost 2k and I couldn't find anyone with information on what would cause that besides vacuum leaks, EGR valve, and open air idler control. So I took it to a mechanic for the first time in 6 years. He modifies Honda's in his spare time. He fixed it and worked for a week and then back again. Drove me nuts so I disassembled the entire intake to find a plastic screw of sorts in the bottom of the throttle body. Screwed it back in and no more extremely high idle.