So there's snow ok. How did you wire up the LED's & Halo's I'm trying to figure this out.
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So there's snow ok. How did you wire up the LED's & Halo's I'm trying to figure this out.
Ok there are 4 wires total, 2 for the LED's and 2 for the Halos. Each one of them have a black and white. Black is Negative and White is Positive. You can hook them up to a switch if you like. This is how you would wire them to a switch:
Take a wire from battery or fuse box or any 12v source (Cigarette lighter etc.) and run to a switch. From the switch to the Positive of the LED's or Halo's. Then take the Negative wire and ground it somewhere. That should make them work now when you flip the switch.
This is not what I did though. I spliced into the turning signal harness to make them come on when the turn signals are on. They also alternate when the signal is being used to signal a turn or something. If you want me to see which wires you need to splice into, I can get pictures for this too.
On a positive note. The weather stripping I got stopped most of the bouncing. I just attached the strips to the bottom of the Headlight and it's much better now. I'm gonna do this to my fog lights too. If anybody wants a picture of the weather stripping, I can get a picture of that too.
Which wires connect to which though? Or does it matter? I tried connecting the led & halo wires together then splicing them into the black & white wires connecting to the turn signal.
Ok take the two white wires and connect both of them to the Brown wire from the Turn signal harness. And then take the two black wires and and connect both of them to the Blue wire from the Turn signal harness. Splice them into where they belong. And then it should work.
Yeah that's what I[m doing! It looks good & I like the way the lights alternate.
It didn't seem to work out right. The lights all work. But, the halo's went so dim you can barely tell they are on.
My HID's that were in my Spyder projectors didn't fit these headlights. Can they be modified to fit?
I think the Spyders use an H1 bulb if I'm not mistaken? These use an H3 bulb for low beam. You can put them in the High beam if you want. The High Beam on these projectors are H1 bulbs.
And yea. My Halo's are pretty dim too. I don't feel like running a switch in my car, especially since I'm so busy with class. I might try later in the season, maybe if it's significant I'll go ahead and do it.
i think it would be pretty cool if they made the new audi headlights the ones that have the LED linings in them for our cars that would be neat.
hopefully I didn't miss this through the reading, but are the high beams independently adjustable from the low beams?
I didn't know if you had to "adjust" the entire light assembly only to find out to get awesome low beams, you get crappy aimed high beams.
Well the High beams criss cross like no other for some stupid reason. But to answer your questions, No. The high beams move with your adjusting of the low beams. Even when they were out of the box and the high beams were lined up, they would criss cross. If you adjust the low beam, it moves the high beam also. But I don't think any amount of adjusting will fix the high beam criss cross.
Great... so in that respect they are just like the Spyder Auto Gen 1 lights. Are the high beams actually useful though?
Part of the poor high beam problems on the Spyder set, is that right out of the box for the low beams to be right the high beams are pointed at the trees and crossed. (they also stick a halo ring in the way of the high beam which blocks ~20% of the light)
So much for getting my hopes up about this new set being fully adjustable. Honestly, the guy designing these things must be cross eyed and drunk.
I mean the light out put from the High beams is brighter and it is in front of the car, not in the trees and ****. It's ok I guess if you just wanna see in front. But I don't think I could actually flash anyone with them unless I'm pretty head to head. You can see the pics from the page before. That was the high beams without being adjusted.
By the way I have been meaning to ask if the beams on these cross. That was one of the issues with the spyder projectors.
Low beams do NOT cross.
High beams DO cross.
Thats good the low beams don't. I guess the position of the projector is a good spot. Now that you mention the high beams crossing, that should be expected considering they are in the same spot the spyder projector is.
so how much do these cost? and u said u can wire em to the signals? does this mean they halos and leds will blink when the blinker is on, and stay on if u have fogs on. how do u do that?
I don't know how much these go for now, I got them a while back.
Yes you can wire the LED's and Halo's to the signals. They will be a little dimmer since they will be sharing the 12v with the signal bulbs. They will alternate when you put your blinker on. And as long as you have your orange turn signal bulbs on, then your halos and led's will be on.
What I did is disabled my DRL's and then you can use the light switch and move it one over so the orange bulbs come on and then you can turn on your fog lights.
Hey Nawarkk - Just had HID's installed in the high beams and low beams and the low beams look like serious CRAP!!! No output at all. Would aiming them help the output brightness??? When i look in them they just about blind me but the light output and the cutoff look like i said serious CRAP!!
Are you sure? Because I put HID's in them for a little and they looked brighter then the halogen bulbs that were in there. I know the high beams will look like crap. Did you aim them correctly? Because if you didn't touch the aiming, chances are the light is not going where you want. Mind posting a picture of the beam it's creating?