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that I know of only 3 were made by moldex. the PRJ/tog stock stroke, one for the intense car and the third popping up on ebay (I remember scott had sold intense and the new owners were selling lots of stuff, we snagged a 1200hp armet IS, so I figured it was theirs)
I remember the ebay one as it wasn't quite a 4.1L stroke crank. just under 3 5/8ths iirc
being 241ci it would leave me to believe he has the ebay crank or paid for a 4th billet crank to be made
http://www.3800pro.com/forum/bottom-...mine-info.html
it does appear that COME racing does now offer billet stroker cranks, not the cast ones like when they first released their kits
I have heads I sell for under 700 shipped, as a matter of fact, I've got a black friday deal going now on the Bully-Flo website that leaves me making less than minimum wage on every pair. Once you get into $1200 titanium valves, $500 spring kits, with titanium parts, exotic materials and machine work, things can get pricey fast. I don't make a penny on those parts or machine work.
So, a customer bought a set of these heads to use on an xpz setup. 700 miles later, the guides were shot. Hinson claimed it wasn't his fault.
Yup.
i literally can't even....
he must use the same machine shop that my uncle used for his road runner. all kinds off silliness with valve train geometry.
Really?
Link?
After looking back a couple of pages and finding flow numbers I decided to look up some I did a few years back. These were a very mild port with only the bowl blended and the ridge taken from the heads. There are a my flow numbers and the stock flow numbers of these particular heads. It's just beyond me why anyone that does this for money wouldn't have this posted with each set of heads he does. There's a guy on FB now that can't even give the heads away because he has no numbers.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthre...883#post163883
Jeff
Someone I know has flow numbers for BullyFlo heads. And they weren't all that impressive. Something like 17cfm gain at .500 lift. Or something along those lines.
Last edited by Iceman6669; 02-28-2016 at 12:26 PM.
I have reopened this thread... BUT, I wanna keep all the posts ON TOPIC. NO senseless bashing. NO getting off topic. I wanna keep all this to FACTS and legit questions. This thread will be kept on a very short leash from this point on. I only reopened it because I felt there was a need to get answers to some of these questions AND to allow the newer members of the community to know what they COULD be getting into before they buy a set of BullyFlo heads.
stem heights look all ova the place. not to mention that head has quite a bit of core shift on the end. i know how hard it is to find good molds/cores so im curious if he just cleans up the casting defects and lets em ride?
does anyone ever do any cleanup of the casting oil drain path? lots of these bastards have nice sharp outside parting lines i always hit with a grinder along with the parting lines near the pushrods/outboard head stud pockets.
years ago im pretty sure i posted how to identify the core shift with visual inspection (pretty sure it was in my thread witht he sliced 2261/4781 castings.)
ive been crawling Jyards for years
simply it just involves looking at the ends of the head below the VC rail for machined surface down to the acc bolt holes (if core is shifted machine cutter no longer will surface the portion below the VC rail) and once both ends check out, you tear down the vc /rockers to inspect the stands/rocker thread centering. if that checks, remove intake/exhaust and feel the parting lines inside the ports. a valley is fine, a valley with excessive elevation on one side is questionable but dont discount it if the externals are good.
by now youve probably found only one head on the engine is a good core, this is normal, rarely have i found an engine with two good heads. yank it off and look at the chambers/carbon marks at the HG reliefs and how well positioned the end of the plug is in the chamber boss. a good indicator is how much of the port wall is machined from the seat/guide operations. this isnt nearly as important as the decks seem to be pretty consistent...im guessing the sand mold wasnt as susceptible to damage as the other sand core molds. they did tend to get deposits that leave negative area's near the plug/seats.
since one of the biggest improvements is unshrouding the valves the chamber is reworked. ive even gone as far as packing the piston/bore with grease and relieving the block at the "mickey mouse" ears.
you will probably decide to yank it and keep walking through for another.....at the least you end up with plenty of spare bolts in your toolbag...a spare SC tensioner nut is quite handy...plus well to tell you the truth, youll probably leave with some recently replaced parts...ill never need to buy an early/late tensioner since i have so many barely used "new" ones.
the SII got ****ed with a higher angularity rotating assembly when GM circumcised the deck height 1". piston acceleration/deceleration rates are much higher. cylinder filling right off the seat is quite important.
hell i dont know why im really talking about this when most heads are a 30* transition to headers and not many people leave the exit roof alone and raise the roof pocket inboard from there to ease the abrupt turn.
i also hate the F body intakes ****ty airflow distribution.
/ramblings
Last edited by Turbocharged400sbc; 02-28-2016 at 01:32 PM.
Thank-you for bringing this back.
And thanks for typing all that up, James.
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