Thread: Cruisin's RX-8 L67 Swap

I got the washers backed and encased with some exhaust tubing.


For the top I made cardboard templates using the tube from a paper towel roll, then shaped everything on a bench grinder for as close a fit as I can get.


I almost went with getting these welds tigged so it would be all nice and pretty looking. But at this point I just want to get it going and get it done. This car has no room for pretty stuffs haha.
















Once the primer has a good chance to dry I'll get some black paint on it and get it up back in the car so I can get the tie rods and steering shaft sorted out.

Got the subframe painted up with some gloss enamel. Lets see how that lasts...





My buddy made a sweet adapter plate to fit the wilwood clutch master in the car, moved over the studs from the stock master, and added studs for the wilwood.





And here it is all bolted up together to test fit it.





While out the pedal was reinforced with some washer welded in as it was already cracking pretty badly.


Got that installed in the car and fits perfect.





Next I was trying to decide where to fit the wilwood balance block
I think I may tuck it between the brake and clutch master, but forward so it's closer to the strut tower. Then I can make a bracket, keep it away from hot surfaces and make it easily accessible.

Got the steering shaft finished, added a u-joint and just tacked it in to check fitment, It's good so I'll need to do a final weld on it.


So then I was able to get around to the test fit


Got the trans super far back and found I still had room to push the engine further back


It all seems to fit neatly in the bay, Pretty nice package. Still trying to decide how I want to handle the serp belt.

I've got the turbo sitting in the car, albeit in pieces. Need to find the right rebuild kit for that baby.
I also need to make some exhaust manifolds. I want to mount the turbo right in front of the engine.
I have exhaust flanges to work with, just need some elbows and piping to get that rolling.

First things first I need to get my engine and trans mounts sorted heh

I acquired the parts and dropped them off at a local machine shop to get my driveshaft jig made. While that was being done I began working on my exhaust manifolds.
To keep cost down I went to a local metal supply shop and got some hand rail tubing and elbows. Not ideal but the ID and price make it almost perfect for my build.
I also dropped the $40 on a harbor freight tubing notcher, Modified that according to a youtube video and got pretty decent results.
For my first try at fabbing a manifold I think it came out fairly decent.






The bottom log is just set in place for the pic


I haven't decided if I want to mig it all or have someone tig it all for me. Either way I'm planning on getting the manifolds ceramic coated to help hood temps and thwart corrosion.




The driveshaft jig got made and I began drilling the holes at one end for the flange.
I can use this to line my trans up with the diff. This should put my engine exactly where it needs to be so I can get my engine mounts going and settle everything in place.

Originally Posted by Bio2482

this is clearly a long way out, but i want to be able to sell you wheels for this thing when it's done. hit me up for that, seriously.

What kind of wheels do you have?

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Originally Posted by Bio2482

LOTS.

avant garde, BC forged, concept one, F1R, ferrada, fifteen52, forgestar, klutch, MHT (foose, niche, rotiform), miro, MRR, rohana, RSV forged, STR, TSW (a bunch), velgen, vertini (vs forged), VIP modular, VMR, and XO.

those are all the brands i can get direct from the manufacturer. i can get more wheels through a distributor i work with as well (enkei, stance, etc.).

I'll keep you in mind when the time comes then, Thanks!

Made up a little bracket to hold the wilwood proportioning valve and a couple of mounts to clip a couple of custom hoses I had made to feed the block.
I later got the end changed with a 90 degree fitting.
I plan to make little 180 degree bends to go from the clipped in hoses to the block.

Got the brakes a little closer to finishing. Re-flared the rear lines and brought them as close as I could to the block.
Then made a bracket for the T and caught a stud with it to hold everything from vibrating.
I then made a short hard line piece to feed it, but it was brought to my attention that it could crack so I'll be getting a hose made for it.







Ordered some 14mm aluminum rod from McMaster Carr and chopped up 6 little chunks to fill in the injector holes.
I'm going to throw a few bucks towards a friend to tig them into place sealing everything up nicely, Just need to get the LIM Sand blasted to match the Upper.






Most likely going to get the Upper powder coated

Buddy welded up the injector holes and took the extra step to smooth out the port from it.





Went ahead with the cross member beneath the car to mount the trans and fab a ppf mount to hold the diff.


Started with round tube and some steel plates to make inserts for the frame rails.















Did the same for the other side


also took some plated, drilled matching holes and welded on some nuts just to make assembly easier.
Got some square tube and cut it to length with a bit of an angle to match the frame rail angle.


Notched the square tube to fit around the brake/fuel lines and welded it up to the side plates. Bolts in place perfectly.





Some 3/16 was added to cap off that notch so the tube was still closed off and strong.

Moved the trans out of the way and popped in the aluminum Isuzu driveshaft. It fits without rubbing the heat shield, ppf, or any other component. Things are working out as planned which is very nice.
Now to get the driveshaft shortened, finish off the ppf and complete the trans and engine mounts.