Thread: Cruisin's RX-8 L67 Swap

So I've been reading mixed info from people who have done manual swaps on their L67s.... Some say you need to balance the f-body flywheel to match the flexplate, others are saying they just threw it on with no balancing and haven't had a single issue.
Just wondering what you're guy's input is on this.

Originally Posted by 91parkave

Are you taking the whole manual assembly from a fbody trans and all?

Just f-body flywheel clutch and pressure plate.
Trans is from a Solstice

I'll have to call a few nearby shops then and start comparing prices, It would make sense to balance it to match the flex plate just for piece of mind.

Here's a little update. Got the driveshaft sorted. It came from an Isuzu Rodeo 2wd automatic. I also have the transmission flange from the automatic, that just needs to be shortened and it'll fit right into my trans and bolt up to the driveshaft.
The rear of the shaft I had to get a Mazda RX-7 flange so it'll fit the diff. This requires to use of a different u-joint which seems to be a Dodge Daytona part number IIRC.

The shaft is pretty much the exact length I'd need, if anything it just pushes the engine and trans forward a hair making the shifter sit a bit forward, but it shouldn't be an issue when it comes to driving it.

You are correct, I misheard my friend when he told it to me, I think he meant Dakota, not Daytona lol

Originally Posted by goldgp

Just some extra input on the flywheel balancing. When I got my camaro flywheel balanced to my l67 flexplate for my getrag swap, There were quite a few balance holes in it when I got it back, definitely worth doing.

I've been reading a lot of mixed information, But I intend to get it balanced anyways just to be safe.

Haven't updated, but I got the bell housing back from the machine shop. Got a total of a half inch machined off, this should sit my input shaft nicely into that pilot bearing. Also should put the clutch disc further back on those splines.
I also got the drive shaft flange for the transmission machined down to the correct length (I hope) I'm running into something in the trans preventing it from hitting the bearing, so looks like I'll be pulling apart the trans soon. I'm debating if I want to paint the engine and some other parts as well.

After failing to properly modify my sub frame, in part due to rust, and mostly due to my inexperience and such I decided to get a new front sub frame.
The replacement frame came from Tennessee with far far less rust. They even included all the bolts that mine didn't want to give up.
I still couldn't get the drivers side control arm off.

You can clearly see the difference between Chicago area vehicles and Anything south of Illinois haha.



I will cut the factory steering rack mounts off again and likely get someone to step in with drilling and welding so I don't screw this one up. More welding practice for me on scrap!

I also got my clutch and PP and am working at getting the flywheel balanced and driveshaft shortened.

Got the brackets on the frame cut off and ground away. Hit it with some flat black just to stop any rust before I can move on.



I got some assistance of a buddy on drilling the mounts for the rack this time. Still in the processes of welding that up and getting it all settled.


Flywheel, Clutch and PP have arrived and have been used to get the Slave cylinder spacer figured out.
Thanks again to my buddy for getting that one machined for me.


Clutch is a "Stage 3" 6 puck sprung copper ceramic with a PP capable of holding 375 ft-lbs, so the seller says.



Here's part of the Dakota bell housing, with the solstice trans and the Colorado slave cylinder and of course that pretty spacer.






I also have the Wilwood 3/4" bore master cylinder which pairs perfect with the slave and stage 3 clutch.


And I have the Wilwood proportioning block so I can delete the ABS and get my braking system situated.



So I'm currently in the process of getting the steering finished, then I can also focus on getting the brakes done. Then at least I can move the car around and get other work done.
Like another test fit to see where the exhaust and engine mounts can go

Boy what a difference 15 minutes and an experienced teacher do to my welding skills. haha
Just some test weld of tubes into exhaust pipe adapters to get ready for welding the frame.



Thanks again to my buddy for the welding tips and helping me get the steering rack situated. It's nice having someone there to confirm my thoughts or tell me how wrong I am haha.


Anyways we got the tubes mounted and welded along with the stop washers for the rack.
Just gonna box in the front side of the tubes with some pipe sections to make it a little cleaner looking and help give it a little more strength, though I doubt it's really needed.