Thread: My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!!

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  1. #361 Re: My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!! 
    Solving problems BrandonHall10's Avatar
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    Surprisingly, the crank didn't look too bad. I think I stopped driving it just in time. I spent about $20 on wet/dry paper, metal polish and some shoe laces. I think for what it is, it will be just fine. This is the worst journal after polish.

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  2. #362 Re: My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!! 
    Killa Bee Scottydoggs's Avatar
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    your no dummy so im sure your going to measure the journals as well as bearings installed with caps installed and torqued. then plastiguage the bearing when the crank goes in for the first time to make 100% sure your in spec.

    it would piss me off to no end if i cut them corners and it failed in 200 miles.

    98 Buick Regal GS, F body brakes, Caddy STS wheels, tinted tails L36 bottom end, lightly ported heads, 1.95 roller rockers, headers, gen 5 N* 3.0 pulley, FSIC, 42 lb injectors, a BrandonHall rebuilt trans, DHP tuned and AEM water/Meth injection https://goo.gl/gpV5kW
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  4. #363 Re: My 1984 K10 - LM7 swap!! 
    Solving problems BrandonHall10's Avatar
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    Oh, yeah. I'll check everything as it goes together. Biggest thing is how the crank spins after it's torqued. Hand tight and the crank won't spin freely. After all the mains are torqued, it spins like butter.

    Tonight I got the AC lines cut and crimped. Also vacuumed and filled the system. It blows pretty cold just idling in the driveway on a 95 degree day. I can't wait to see what it does on the highway with a ton of airflow. Buying the crimping tool was definitely a good investment.

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