Thread: Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

this thread wants me to start feeding my car some corn! i'm running the stock pulley and i'm afraid to go smaller until i do a cam. but corn "sounds" easier. glad to hear your car is running good now.

If you have a station nearby that supplies it, it's a no-brainer! I changed no hard parts on my regal, just filled the tank, and bumped the injector skew 30%. With stock pulley I'm close to 80% idc last time I checked, have 42's ready to go if I decide to run the 3.5.

Originally Posted by 99GT2dr

If you have a station nearby that supplies it, it's a no-brainer! I changed no hard parts on my regal, just filled the tank, and bumped the injector skew 30%. With stock pulley I'm close to 80% idc last time I checked, have 42's ready to go if I decide to run the 3.5.

I'll sell ya my 3.4. I'll give you a good price for all your help.

So, I'm gonna button up my radiator swap today. The one I'm putting in is from 04+ gtp. It had more differences than I thought it would, took a lot of cutting and welding up some new brackets. Biggest surprise is that there is no coolant level sensor. Where are they in the 04's? I'm thinking about retrofitting it into the overfill bottle. For now I guess I'll tune it out or just jumper the plug. That should work right? Isn't it just a open/closed sensor?

if you just leave the coolant sensor unplugged the light never comes back on. mines unplugged for a year now. i just check my coolant every now and then when i check the oil.

Oh wow that's good. So what's the point of it if it never comes on? Lol. Does it just come on once like whenever I leave battery unplugged?

well its a called a idiot light for a reason. lol mine went bad or got dirty, who knows, i left it unhooked. turns the light off. it may light up key to run car off for a few seconds with the rest of the cluster lights, but thats it.

Yeah to hell with that coolant sensor, they would always stay on once it got dex sludged up, so I always ended up unplugging them, too. People like us that are under the hood every day don't need it anyways, we know when we're low on coolant.

Got everything buttoned up and its running good, no leaks...whew. Only thing is I now know why I was seeing high temps, and it probably had nothing to do with the radiator, hah? My fans are not responding to my tune changes. No matter what I set them, they will only run at stock values. Any clue why? I noticed early on that I couldn't get the engine off fan timer to work. Figured it was just that one feature but it looks like I can't change anything to do with fans. But I'm still glad I did the upgrade, went from 5/8 to 1". It seems to cool quicker once the fans turn on. Once I get this tune dialed I'll be able to use A/C so they'll be on always anyways.

Bonus is the headers no longer hit the motor. I shortened the top brackets to pull everything closer to front.

Stock:


Cut and welded:


Header no longer on fan motor:


Reason I got the radiator for 6 bucks:


Plastic welded:


Epoxy for good measure:


Comparison:


And why I had the front apart I peeled all the useless sticks and gave it a quick paint:



Can still see the outline of the stickers a bit, but I'll redo it when I get the latch bracket back from the shop and install it.

I noticed in hpt that there is a "Class_2_Fan_Enable". Currently mine is set to 1=True. If I turn this off I wonder if the pcm will be able to control the fans. I think right now it is overridden by the bcm? Anyone confirm this?

Edit: Confirmed. Now have control of fans

Got the thrush glasspack installed.


Main reason for doing the exhaust work was because of the leaky friggin downpipe. I've redone the band clamps and a gallon of rtv at least 3 times. The SD headers I bought used had a chopped up downpipe so I tried to fabricate something similar. Must not have done so good because the pipe would blow apart within minutes of driving. So I said screw the stainless steel and just welded it up with my trusty HF welder.


Yeah, looks like crap but its leak free. Hard to figure out how to keep everything aligned when it was cut up off the car. Was way off first time I installed it. So I had to cut a chunk out of the middle, bend it up, and reweld it. Finally fit and I'm leak free...until the welds rust out anyways. Now my wideband is playing nice and I show 14.7 at idle again.

Spent almost all day yesterday researching the injectors and how to dial them in in the tune. I'm pretty confident my IFR is as close as its gonna get, so I put my maf and ve tables back to stock and gonna start over. Its actually running pretty nice. Just way lean when in open loop and my trims are lean too. But now I feel I've got a good base to dial in.

damn thats a long one. how long is it? mines a 32 but i cut one tube off.

31x 2 1/4

PS...that's what she said. Couldn't resist.

i guess mine looks like a bazooka too lol

Mine looks longer because its skinnier I think. What's your girth?

Edit: your brake/fuel lines look as rusty as mine too.

Sorry to keep bumping this, but wanted to mention that the car is definitely running better than ever. Now my commanded and my wideband AFR stay very close through the whole WOT pull. I believe that dialing in the injector tables is a must. I used tiny tuner which allows changing several more tables that dhp doesn't have. After hours reading yesterday I found some good specs for my Siemens Deka 60's. Still sad that there isn't some solid specs for these seeing as so many are using them. Really the only way of guaranteed specs is to have them flow matched and get a data sheet. Also there is far fewer tables available to us compared to the lsx crowd. But its possible to use the HPT editor in conjunction with dhp to get the IFR about spot on, I believe.

After that rambling mess I have a question. When changing timing for WOT, are you guys basically just changing the last row in dhp and blending it in a little? I'm at 13.5 WOT. Before I was just using TM and adding 1 or 2 degrees to the whole table. I just want right now to up timing at WOT for a little more pull. Really curious how you are changing WOT timing. Thanks.

I add to the bottom 3 rows when increasing WOT timing specifically, I keep all 3 the same.

i was told today how to do that same thing.

in good fuel spark.

highlight all the blocks in the 600, 640 and 680 mg/cyl from 3200 all the way to the end. then right click and pick up or down

All right good info thanks! Have you guys zeroed out your IAT spark table? And wtf is the air pump? Is that just a Cali thing? Can I just zero out that too, or is it even used?

air pump you leave alone. you dont have one.