Thread: Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

Same thing happened to me when I swapped in my L32 lol. Dead injector. You found it faster than I did though, lol. Great job!

Originally Posted by Booba5185

Same thing happened to me when I swapped in my L32 lol. Dead injector. You found it faster than I did though, lol. Great job!

A little help from p0205 . Cylinder 5 Injector Circuit Malfunction

When I pull the wire on that injector nothing changes. Figured it was the injector wire adapter, because I was initially going to solder the ev1 connections I have. Just used the adapters to get it together faster.

If I could figure out what reptile did to the "injector flow rate" table I'd tweak it and go right back out to try the 60's.

its math. and i suck at math lol some one will chime in with some math and numbers.

your flow rate is stock still as you still have stock injectors.

that 98 iracvet guy's car runs 2 pcm's one for gas, one for corn, hes got larger injectors. so its very do able.

Originally Posted by Scottydoggs

its math. and i suck at math lol some one will chime in with some math and numbers.

your flow rate is stock still as you still have stock injectors.

that 98 iracvet guy's car runs 2 pcm's one for gas, one for corn, hes got larger injectors. so its very do able.

I'm running L67 injectors on my stock pcm. Aren't L36 injectors #22? And L67 are 36? So you divide 22 by 36 and get .61.
Then adjust my map by 61%. So my first value at 0 kPa is 367.93 stock. Multiply that by 61% and I get 224.8.

On the stock non boosted table the values are all the same. Should they decrease as kPa increases? How much do I adjust for each step?

you see that math....i dont do math lol wish a had a clue. im still learning all this crap myself.

There should be an IFR table somewhere that's already set up for each # injector, I know I had the 42.5 one, think I saw a 60 and 80 as well. Need to look on my old laptop and see if it's saved on there. If it is I'll post it.

Originally Posted by 99GT2dr

There should be an IFR table somewhere that's already set up for each # injector, I know I had the 42.5 one, think I saw a 60 and 80 as well. Need to look on my old laptop and see if it's saved on there. If it is I'll post it.

Thanks. I did find a big exhaust leak in the crossover. The band clamps the guy gave me with the SD headers are crap. Going to get new ones now. No wonder my wideband was pegged! Also explain why it smelled pig rich.

Leak is better but not perfect. I'll have to pull front header and adjust the crossover more. Leaking where it connects to rear header.

But... I'm getting no combustion on #3 &5 cylinder. I ran car for 20 seconds and the two pipes comming off those cylinders were cold. What would cause this? I swapped plug wires. Is there something related to these two cylinders? They look like the last two that the fuel rail reaches. Junk in rail maybe?

Its alive...AGAIN!

I never did feel good about those injector adapters. I soldered new connections on, and she's running like a beast! Tune sucks, probably because of my dirty flash for the 60's. High short terms. That could be partly the exhaust leak too. But I got into boost and seen just a little KR at times.

Think I'll put the stock l67 injectors back on and try to get that dialed in. And fix that exhaust leak.

Guys, thanks so much for following me in this. Its been fun fo real. Now to get this rust bucket dialed in and on a track

Congrats man. I love it when a plan comes together, lol. It'll be a beast with a tune.

Originally Posted by Booba5185

Congrats man. I love it when a plan comes together, lol. It'll be a beast with a tune.

Thanks! Feelsgoodman.

Never did show what I'm working with.

Haven't washed it in weeks and its covered in greasy handprints. Once its running good I'll work on rust, and then the rust...probably fix some more rust after that. I did just put new headlights on yesterday...first appearance mod. Tint and new wheels and a paint job. Should be happy after that.

I think I broke something....already lol

I am getting some odd noises from the front passenger side. It sounds a bit like a brake dragging when I'm going slow. And it has felt like the brake was on when I put it in reverse, with some grinding sounds. But it doesn't do it all the time, the squeak it does, but the dragging sound/feel in reverse has only happened a couple times. I attributed this to my brakes. Have had several issues in the past, had to replace the emergency brake lines because they would stick so thats kinda what I thought it was again, or I colapsed a brake line because I had to bend the front passenger line a little when working on headers. It actually made the grinding sound and dragged the first time I backed out of the garage after taking it off the jack stands so I don't think I did it while driving it. I had the e-brake on for a few days so I just assumed it was sticking again.

I jacked up the front and when I spin the tire I hear the squeak coming where the shaft goes in the tranny. It sounds like wet rubber on rubber. And feels kinda sloppy when I move rotate it back and forth, though I know some slop is usually normal. Any clues? I'm thinking the cv axle shaft is shot, but I really don't know much about transmissions. Could it be deeper, worse?

But there is good news too. Reptile came through for me with a revamped tune. He tweaked the MAF table more, and it is running WAY better. Fuel trims are a lot better when cruising, just crappy when decel and idling. But we're on the right path for sure. And I wasn't seeing boost past 4lbs. So I pulled the hose off the selenoid and now I'm hitting between 7-8lbs. No idea why the selenoid is pulling out boost. Anyways +rep to Reptile for blindly getting me to a drivable state I've only gone about 60% throttle because I'm getting some KR, but the shifts are really amazing. He has really woke it up, but I may have to tame it a bit because I'm afraid of tearing the tranny up. I do want to put a better built tranny in, but want to enjoy the car for awhile first.

Sheesh, long boring post, sorry.

Notes:

1. Something broke
2. Reptile is awesome

Forgot to mention. The track off light was lit and something in the info gauge that mentioned traction malfunction or something. When I restarted the car the lights were off. No cel codes on it either.

I'm gonna head to the yard and get a half shaft. Might as well get a better diff while I'm there. My 01 impala has 3.05 final drive. The gtp 97-03 is 3.29. If I grab one of them is there anything I should be aware of? I wasn't positive of axle length. Are they the same?

Just grabbed half shaft and 3.29 carrier for 30 bucks. Car had 74k on it. I love this yard

Gtp is 2.93, but the diff isn't what changes the fdr anyways. You will also need the gtp output shaft, along with the diff, cover, and axle to complete the hd upgrade.

Yeah I got a little ahead of myself when I was looking at fixing my axle. But I'm still a little confused. I thought all I would need was HD diff, cover and axle? That's all that's in the zzp upgrade kit. Why the output shaft?

I was reading this, which made me believe that all I had to do was change the diff to get a different ratio. From what I understood the drive gears is the same in the gt and my impala, both use 35/35. The gtp is 37/33. But the sun gear in the diff is different, my impala has a 38 tooth sun gear, the 97-03 n/a gt have a 34. Isn't that what changes the fdr, seeing as how the driving gears are both 35/35?

Anyways, initially I was just going to upgrade for the acceleration. I wasn't even thinking about HD. I'm gonna hold off on the diff until I can find the HD parts at the yard. There is a 00 Bonneville ssei there. Haven't looked into it yet. I think the axle was missing.

The driven gears are what determine the FDR, all the diffs are 3.29s (in these cases at least).

Originally Posted by Booba5185

The driven gears are what determine the FDR, all the diffs are 3.29s (in these cases at least).

What purpose do the sun gears serve? I thought that was basically the ring and pinion of a fwd car? This transaxle stuff is confusing.

The sun gear does "help" (might be the wrong wording) the FDR stay at 3.29, but it must be used with it's differential (HD or non-HD). So the end result still comes out to 3.29. You can't use the sun from a Non HD in an HD and vice versa. I believe it physically won't fit at all.