https://i.ibb.co/zbqHvjf/IMG-20190616-201451.jpg
Temporary setup. Spent too long trying to figure out a cleaner install so I just stuck em on a board.
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https://i.ibb.co/zbqHvjf/IMG-20190616-201451.jpg
Temporary setup. Spent too long trying to figure out a cleaner install so I just stuck em on a board.
Nice work man! im going to be going over this thread when I get a meth kit.. I'm prolly going after the same one.
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i drilled right through the side to the inside of the wheel well. where the pump is is also bolted down. its clear under the car to get bots through.
http://www.grandprixforums.com/attac...id=16493&stc=1
Thanks man! It's a pretty straightforward install. Instructions are clear and everything you need is in the kit. Biggest pain in the ass was running stuff through the firewall. I've never liked doing that though.
Scotty, I was thinking that way at first, but the imp has a tiny trunk lid. Filling up the fluid would be a job because it would be underneath too far. I want easy access. Right now it's bungied to the back, lol.
I couldn't resist so I took it out for a test. First ran with no changes. Of course it was pig rich. Pulled over, just set commanded afr in PE to 12.1. Ran great. Wideband shows 11:1. 19° and zero wot knock. I get some tip in knock, but I had that before. Was still playing with PE/tps. Can't wait to start upping the timing. My plan now is see how far I can take spark, then order a 2.8.
It's pretty cool being able to dial more or less spray. Gonna make tuning fun! Not that it isn't already. Thanks again for the help and pics. U a good man.
pretty sure i sent you my tune. you could try my timing file. pretty sure that ones up to 21. if not i can send one thats at 21 wot. ive also got all the timing adders turned off. so my file is what shows on the scan.
Yup. I'm gonna try your spark. Looks stronger in the lower cells. That might help with my lean tip in too. I think it's getting too much fuel when I tip in. It might be in the Transient fuel tab, but ask me if I understand much there. Still trying to wrap my head around that.
I have no idea what i even said here. Was a long day and my brain was fried, lol.
Anyways, got a half decent tune tonight. Well, all my tunes are half decent at best, i suppose. But I'm totally stoked and glad I did the install. I went back to what I know, open loop maf tune. Only took 3 pulls and tunes, put it back in closed loop, and it 100% made a seat of the pants difference. No doubt. It feels like it pulls more to redline, where before it would kind of fall off. Perhaps that is just the fact that the blower is not getting so hot and cramming hot air in the cylinders at high rpm. 20 degrees timing and just a touch of knock, less than 1 at random times. I'm running leaner than i ever have, 11.3. Wanna try to lean it out a touch more and see what it does.
I tried your spark table Scotty and it was a no go. I can run higher WOT now, but your table was puttin the hurt on me in low RPM, high load, areas. My hats off to you if you are running that lol.
id stay under 12 on the afr.
Definitely. Shooting for 11.4-11.6. It's all guess work without a Dyno. I'm definitely gonna err on the rich side. I have read that with meth you can take it a bit leaner though.
Spent most of the day tuning. Learning how heat affects a tune. Started off this morning pretty dialed in. Later in the day it was 90° and heat soak was definitely messing up my tune. Where I was at 11.4:1 wot, I was seeing 12:1. Didn't get a ton of knock but it crept in. I finally got to play with the mvpi2 Bluetooth drag feature. My first run was a 13.7 @ 99.7. I'm happy with that. When I started this build I just wanted to crack 13's.
This was the first 1st gear pull I've done in ages. I'm trying to take it easy on the transmission. I had some ugly KR so I feathered through first gear. I've basically only been tuning 2nd gear so had no idea I'd see knock in first since 2nd and 3rd pulls are clean. What I think is happening is because I feather the throttle to prevent wheel spin, I'm getting into boost before PE kicks in so it's just too lean. Need to think about that I guess.
https://i.ibb.co/b67tT6z/Screenshot-20190626-214542.png
No I didn't start in the ditch 😁
I've heard that you can't just turn off dtc's. Like, turn it to no report but leave SES checked. Is that right?
I think I am still getting some kind of cat test that's messing up my OL tuning. Took it out tonight to retune after trying a different Meth controller setting. Did two runs where I got MAF tuned from 4000hz to 8000ish. Restart the car and everything is around 5% lean. I know it does go a little lean when i turnoff the car and make adjustments, from heat soak, but tonight it was instantly lean after a quick flash, and then it went back to normal like a flick of the switch after 5 minutes of driving. It just feels like the pcm is doing something in the background.
Basically I have to wait a few minutes when I start driving after a flash, keep resetting the scanner until I see it get back around 0% afr error. I thought I fixed it earlier when I disabled evap and changed plugs, plus the vac leak around the throttle body, but something is still weird.
Other than that it's good. It seems that staying open loop with the MAF is netting the best results. I have zero KR and it feels better, but I haven't had my butt calibrated so that may be placebo. However my HP calculation in hptuners scanner is showing an improvement too, but just a couple hp. I know that number isn't accurate, but it should at least track a trend.
Is my.pcm a gen 3? I read that on gen 3 pcms you can't disable the cat tests. But there is a workaround.
01-03 you can on gtp and regals, but only with dhp and tiny tuner. ive seen it on other bins as well. aka other models.
Scotty, thanks. I may have got it turned off, gonna test again tomorrow. I did see someone.on HPtuners forum mention that if it can't be turned off you can.plug the O2 sensor in and it will stop the tests if set off in hptuners.
Changed my fuel filter today. Well, the filter element inside was broke off the canister so it was just flopping around inside. That's gotta be great for the injectors! Might as well clean them too. When I did the swap I made a.mental note to change the filter after a few hundred miles because e85 likes to clean your tank and send it to the filter. Must have.lost that mental note though...
https://i.ibb.co/N1bM5KR/IMG-20190628-203701.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/9ZG4VRC/IMG-20190628-203654.jpg
Couldn't even blow through the filter. Guess I should be thankful that it broke loose, may have spared my engine.
Pulled injectors. Didn't have any of that e85 goo. But I did find a leaker. I could blow through it, albeit very slightly. So of course I tried to fix it... then I broke it real good, lol. Sprayed carb cleaner and fuel injector cleaner through it. Still couldn't get it to stop leaking. Reinstalled and of course it ran like crap. Pressure drained out of my fuel line quickly. Pulled spark plug and pump relay and turned it over. Then I installed a mystery set of injectors. Can't remember what they are. White injectors. I thought they were 42.5lbs, maybe they are. Had to scale injectors down to 35.7 to get the car running right. It actually runs pretty good with them. I can take it to just about 5k rpm before i hit 100% duty cycle. Lower rpm is cleaner, too. Anyways, guess I order another SD 60lb injector :( To make myself feel better I ordered a 2.8" pulley. I was up to 23 degrees advance with no knock. I haven't seen any other exact builds like mine so i have no idea if I can run it, but I'm gonna give it a shot.
https://i.ibb.co/yYqcjXY/IMG-20190629-210633.jpg
While I had the rails off I painted them and touched up some spots on the blower. But man, look at that wiring mess. When I eventually get happy with the tune I'll clean that up. Dunno yet what I'm gonna do with the evap. Cut it and let it vent under the hood? Or just hook it back up? I'm debating on a wire harness nip and tuck but that might be a better fall/winter job.
Also the crossover is leaking again. :( Gonna buy a bucket of high temp rtv and give it a bath I guess.
my birds nest is in the back side of the engine, vac lines and crap all over.
Fuel system wise, what's the difference between an 01 Impala and an 01 gtp? I'm trying to figure out why one has a curved IFR table, and the other is flat.
Doesn't an 01 gtp and an 01 impala have the same return style, vacuum regulated fuel system? Wouldn't the fuel pressure remain the same on both of them, regardless of map? Basically why does a stock 01 l36 have the IFR table all the same number regardless of vacuum, but the 01 gtp's table is on a curve? On these tables 100 kPa is idle side, 0 is WOT side.
Stock 01 GTP
https://i.ibb.co/2djFLHF/Stock-01-gtp-IFR-table.jpg
Stock 01 Impala LS
https://i.ibb.co/k9LjxQY/Stock-01-Impala-IFR-table.jpg
And are L67 injectors 36 lbs/hr and L36 22?