Thread: Bandook's 01 Imp, top swap-ified

My IAT spark table is zero'd out, I prefer to have as few things as possible modifying my timing and fueling, easier to control that way, imo.

That's what I was thinking. I'd like to look at the logs and have a better idea where I am in the spark table. The IAT was only pulling 2° over 140°F, but still. I'm tuning in the heat right now anyways, so when fall rolls around I'll tweak the table for cooler air.

BTW, I pulled the trigger on a smaller pulley last night. Couldn't resist. I won't say how small yet until I see some logs. You may call me crazy and you may be right. Just want to see for myself what it will do. This E85 has made the engine very happy, though I may piss it off when I put the pulley on.

Just thought I'd mention I figured out why the boost solenoid I wired in was not working. It was always limiting boost to about 3-4psi. Thanks to Scotty helping me get Tiny Tuner set up right, I found the option I needed to turn on. There is a setting that basically says "Supercharger Present?". Of course my stock pcm had it at " 0". Changed to "1" and now I have full boost with solenoid hooked up. Not a big deal because I can bypass it for full boost, but dangit I wanted it working since I went through all the trouble pinning the pcm for it!

Changed oil to full synthetic 10w-30. This time I put in a longer filter just because. Little more oil in the system can't hurt. Yeah, and this is now my 4th oil change in under 2000 miles, sheesh. Also changed fuel filter because it was recommended after switching to e85. While I was doing that the bracket that holds the filter basically disintegrated in my hands so I fabbed up a new one out of stainless.


Took the car for a quick spin afterwards. First time in awhile I didn't have the computer hooked up. It was nice to just enjoy the car for once. Must say I'm pretty happy with how its running. Got home and just sat and listened to it idle while sipping a summer shandy. It sounds real good, idles smooth with just a hint of blower whine and NO exhaust leaks lol.

tiny tuner has a lot of settings nothing else seems to have. nice find.

Yeah, I'll probably be tweaking this tune for months now that TT has opened up so much. Best thing it did was give me more control of injectors. That's made the biggest difference in the tune I believe. Maybe one day I'll send them off to be flow matched and get a proper spec sheet.

I'm down to two glitches in my build.

1. The "service traction system" warning. It only pops up when I am on the throttle and hit 75-80 mph. Every time though. I'm thinking either rear hubs (front just replaced), wiring to speed sensors, or something is off in tune related to tire size. I need to look up the exact dimensions of the tires I have on now. Would this have anything to do with a CASE relearn? I put a new balancer on but never got codes. I honestly don't really know what the case learn does.

2. Occasionally, when I am backing up I feel and hear something kinda dragging from the front right. Brakes are new. Its most likely to do it when I'm backing up an incline, so the front is compressed a little. Thinking either axle or diff. More likely axle/CV joint I would think.

Feel free to chime in if you have any suggestions.

Grabbed a set of 06 imp calipers and brackets.


Need some loving for sure. Will probably hold off on installing until I do brake lines and get some ss braided. Have 50 feet of nickle copper line that keeps giving me funny looks. Did I mention that I'm not looking forward to doing the lines? Yeah, I'm not.

your car may do the same abs check our cars do. sounds like a dragging rake for a second and then stops. if this is only on a start up and drive off you hear this.

if you ride the brake pedal you'll feel the pedal jump when you hear the sound. if its anything like my regal.

Yeah, its definitely not that. My van does the abs check so I'm familiar with that. It is more like something is binding, nothing through the brakes. It does it so infrequent its hard to pinpoint. And only in reverse. Definitely sounds like front passenger side, but I've been fooled before by sounds.

did you say the brakes are new? if so make sure the bolts are still there. a missing bracket bolt lets the caliper move and hit the wheel.

That sounded like a strong possibility Scotty. Just checked though and "sadly" no missing bolts. I put front on jack and checked everything as best as I could, post-shower lol. Only noise I could get it to make was when I grab the wheel and turn it, pushing 3&9 o'clock, it makes a creaking sound from the strut mount on pass side. Guess just a bad mount but I don't know if that would induce the dragging feeling I get?

When I swapped radiators I noticed a bunch of rust on this bracket.


And down here



Got a better brace and had a buddy shoot it at his shop with bc/cc. And I ground as much rust off as I could and painted the bottom support with undercoat. Bottom support bolt broke off so I got a little more practice with the welder. Yeah...I still suck.


Looking much better IMO than it did with all them now useless emission stickers lol.

Looking good! When you getting that thing on the dyno? Interested in seeing some numbers. Just painted a set of valvecovers red myself, gonna do the top 3 strips in black, to match the blower.

I uploaded a video of my car idling after warmup. Wondered if you guys would listen and tell me what the noise is. The camera picked it up real good, it doesn't even sound this noticeable in person. I'm thinking exhaust leak or lifters? I did put in new ls7 lifters though. I probed it with a vac tube in my ear lol, and I hear nothing from valve covers and it seems loudest around front manifold or just under it. So flipping hard to isolate noise in the engine bay though.


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were those lifers soaked in oil? might take a while to build pressure if brand new fresh lifters, also not everyones a fan of using different lifters. most cases stock lifters are fine and one less thing to worry about.

edit also niccop is well worth the price to use for brake lines just spend the money and get a good flaring tool and some double flare ends.

i need to do the other 3 corners i got left on my car. i fixed the right front before the trip from wash dc back to nd. will be nice to have the whole car done in new brake line!

Yeah I soaked them before I installed them. But they've been in for awhile now. I only put them in because I thought why not, one more engine wear part I could replace. So you think this is classic lifter tick?

that or a loose rocker. its damn hard to tell in the vid what did you tq the rocker bolts to?

Yeah Tyler, that was my first gut instinct, rockers. I used comps reusable and torqued to whatever spec is, 25? But I didn't torque each one with valves closed. And when I did the rear 3 they kind of twisted off center of the pushrods. I was confused because I thought the rocker plate was supposed to keep them centered. Front 3 I held them on center as best as I could when I realized I could.

But I really don't hear anything from the valve covers when I stick a hose up to them. I'm really tempted to just pull the covers and redo them anyways.

x2 thats where id start anyways....... seems like others have run into this on top swaps or after any valvetrain work.

sounds like a rocker arm maybe. take the belts off first and fire it up. if you still hear it take the v/c's off.

I haven't heard good things about the comp reusable rocker bolts. Did you clean each rocker bolt hole out with a q tip before installing? Oil in the bolt hole will throw off the tq. I prefer the tty bolts on the rockers myself, they're cheap enough and I don't find myself pulling the valve train apart all that often, never had one come loose, either.