Thread: 2000 Daytona 500 With pics

Popped a code this morning. Needs a new thermostat. This should explain the low coolant light in startup as well.

I parked the car and will begin tearing into it tomorrow. LIM job and headers etc.. Back to the 40th I go.

Also zip tied the ol ignition button. No more stuck key.

Dug into her for a bit today. Attacking the LIM might as well finally get my togs installed with everything out of the way. Snapped a couple exhaust bolts on the crossover but the front manifold came off without a hitch!

Debating the egr delete with headers. I'm gettin a tune regardless tuning it out isn't a problem. I just don't want increased heat to be an issue.

increased heat from what? delete it and be happy its gone. egr only opens when you are cruising, its closed all other times

Every dash light flashes for a second and turns off. The low coolant light stays illuminated for 5-10 seconds or so.

Will yank the sensor tomorrow to have a look.

I think its under the top trans cooler line if this pic is correct


Sent from the Milky Way

Yup... This happened. Couldn't get the drivers side bolt apart on the downpipe.

So to cover all my bases I'm going to pick up the following sensors.

Coolant temp sensor
Air intake sensor
Low coolant sensor.

What's everyone opinion on o2 sensors. Should I replace the top one in the header now? I have everything bolted up already and it seems like it would be impossible to replace down the road. Do they go bad often??

Originally Posted by Yarbeau

So to cover all my bases I'm going to pick up the following sensors.

Coolant temp sensor
Air intake sensor
Low coolant sensor.

What's everyone opinion on o2 sensors. Should I replace the top one in the header now? I have everything bolted up already and it seems like it would be impossible to replace down the road. Do they go bad often??

O2 sensors are cake to replace and you should go with a new one.

Headers are on, lim is down and everything's bolted back up. Fired it up straight piped and she sounded gooooood! I need a reducer welded in from my 3" ZZP tog downpipe to the catback.

I attached the pic of the crossover hitting the tranny dipstick. This is going to cause knock readings... What can I do to fix this. These are tog headers.

Thanks!

Be careful and bend the tube.

Some heat on the tube will make it bend better. Little map torch always comes in handy.

Had an exhaust shop cut off the 2.5" flange on the Res and weld on a 3" so my DP can bolt up nicely.

Had them reinstall the exhaust since tucking it back up there laying on my back didn't seem like it was going to be all that fun.
Cant wait to get it back tonight and see how it runs. I had it towed to the shop as I didn't figure running straight piped would be very smart...

I will try to bend that dipstick with some heat. Any recommendations on procedure so I don't break it? lol

Got the car back today.



Perfect! Only 2 codes I'm throwing. Deleted the egr and plugged the rear 02 hole in my zzp downpipe. Swapping my tuned PCM in tomorrow and hopefully we will be ready to go.

Replaced the coolant temp sensor in the intake manifold and dropped to a 180* thermostat. My low coolant light no longer flickers on upon startup and the code is gone.

Only issue in having is banging of the tranny dipstick onto the crossover. There is absolutely no room in there. Might have to take it off and bend it. Gonna try a torch in the am.

Installed a tuned PCM I had done for my 02 anniversary which deleted the rear o2 and egr codes plus some timing and fan turn on etc.

Car runs really well and the check engine light is no longer on BUT I no longer have performance shift. The button does nothing.

Is that because it isn't tuned to be a 2000 with the performance shift option??