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You said you were planning on using a regular pan with welded in drain plug. We don't need to discuss ZZP's lack of quality or ability to count past the number four. I'm well versed as well lol. I'm talking to keep from having multiple pieces to work with each time you drop the pan.
The ends are tapered press fit
was expecting more of this
http://media.ed.edmunds-media.com/no...430125_600.jpg
the pieces have to number 4 for the tapers to seat/lock in place but also so that it can be cutout of the center drop of the 1 piece spacer.
i dont want to put it together yet, but from a quick smack that was removable... the pieces end up quite rigid. i think ill cut out two test pieces from some scrap and see how strong it is
if i waterjetted in some 6mm threaded holes in it to bolt the pan (drill new holes) to the spacer permanently...people might take those bolts out too. so youd have to do it as an M5 or an SAE/philips head etc to make it noticeably different from the oem
then realise that those holes are now 4-8 new leak points past the oem gasket ribs. youd have to rtv the gasket to the pan spacer permanently, just as i originally figured on doing.
not good otherwise. so the holes have to be drilled blind and threaded blind, short holes in 3/8ths. so with machine time to do that it'd be a good bit more cost than what i want for a cheap spacer.
i mean **** dude...wanna know the filter solution? yeah i cut off the neck of the old one and slip it over the new with a ring of rtv as the tapers seat on the plastic tube.
thats cheap dude, just like a single shot jetted plate setup that just needs rtv applied at the joints, press it together, and permanently rtv to the pan/underside of the OEM gasket.
simple stuff that us crazies can easily figure out and do to increase fluid volume and reduce the sloshing/air sucking issue.
when i make the 1" spacer ill probably machine a real seal spacer like the 400$ setup from up north....but if i do that i want to ditch the damned oem filter sock and run an external for a better sump location with some baffles.
meh i dunno, that 3/8ths spacer is about 100$ worth of material and machine time, the single piece is a fair bit more material but nearly the same cut time. i now have a racecar spacer and a spacer for one of my 4 3800 beaters for nearly free.
i just want to do the same for the 1" lol
price out a large 1" plate and you can see why that one spacer costs so much. though im fairly sure those are made from cast plate from what i remember of the top and bottom finishes being of a large cutter arc. im using pressed plate thats far less brittle.
i see your points bill, but im looking at cheap, using a steel pan permanently rtv'd to the spacer with the gasket rtv'd to the top is quite easy and cheap and just needs longer bolts and a little work with a used filter neck and a new one
plus theres that whole thing about me being crazy
suspension stuff is final assembled....racecarparts
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psvg6rrvns.jpg
Love it, curious as to why u went through all that for the sway bar? Endlinks
the zzp design sucks, its too short, too high of an angle change at the bar to retain the pancake bushings.
now the links are nearly 4" long, less of an angle at each end and nice smooth heims with no play. yet I can still add about a 1/2" of preload to it to help counter tq steer or at least make the bar truly neutral with just the driver in it.
I widened the zzp mounts to fit high angle washers next to the heim.
I wish I coulda hacked off the ends of the BMR sway to put heim tabs there but I got a heim to work with a nice high pivot point. then I coulda kept the zzp arms right side up instead of flipping them, but the links still woulda been short.
he does want to fix the roll centers with the steel knuckles and monoball pins/joints at the LBJ so I did want something to match the rest of the suspension as far as not having any deflection.
the only things we have to contend with now is any movement of the subframe from the rubber bushings (im working on that one) and the flexing of the strut body/shaft and the unibody sheetmetal.
now I shouldn't have to dial in nearly 3* of toe in to end up at 0 under power and have it go where ya point it. stock junk moves too much.
right now im waiting for the right piece of 3/8ths 304 plate to fall into my lap so I can make the LBJ plates and weld in the monoball sleeves. but for now its drivable lol
This is what i ended up doing so I could adjust to any height I needed
http://www.grandprixforums.net/threa...y-bar-link-mod
yeah I looked at a monoball sleeve welded to a bolt, the problem is the swaybar pancakes, they suck. I looked at welding the monoball rings to each otherwith tabs at the swaybar welded to a bolt through the hole, it was too short and hit some hard angles likely to eventually break off the zzp tabs
now they are ~1" above the LCA and the link is 3.5" long.
over-engineered junk
you still interested in the knuckle/pin/LBJ/roll center stuff?
Now James, you know better of course I am. I gotta get this tourqe steer under control though. Spraying nitrous on the gxp isn't the smoothest right now
ya gotta get rid of the rubberbands holding the oem suspension together brochacho.... these bastards pull to a toe out condition at WOT. lengthen each sides tire rod a 1/2 turn and retest, then go to 3/4. you can do 1 to 1.5 turns, on one side only for temporary track tests, the steering wheel will just be off center but total TOe in will be the same as if you had done both sides. the TR drove straightest and with the least amount of fanfare at 3/4 turn each side
meh, its slowly getting there... fuel rails anodized and sealed up with viton O rings for ethanol, remade the buick Tq link plate for more harness clearance and to drop some weight. made an extra just in case i **** this one up.
strut bar and mounts are in, alignment is set at full positive camber at the camber bolts so that i can do final adjustment at the CC plates.
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...pscsaaka6a.jpg
so then i moved onto the T stat housing and its conflict with the triple stack ICM/coil setup. i have to shorten the -16 hose but it'll fit now!
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...pswpesajie.jpg
runs great, wheels on, almost on the ground, ready for a drive even!
fat kevin went for some TB fer lunch
drives great, no leaks, success!
Useless without video!
I have video of kevin driving it daintily down the street and back.
no video of me driving it after he finally left
drives great, first gear is still useless with the 2.93's even at 18psi, 15 minutes later there's a cop parked across the street in the cul de sack
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psvc3xl3nw.jpg
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psiblvvnz9.jpg
i cant wait to push snow off of it with a push broom
http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/i...psehtrngfe.jpg
pbucket ftw, i cant make out the explorer squadie in the bottom one
Needs to be flogged hard and put away broken......
Vids and Burnouts!
need plates
plate ticket............ WORTH IT............. Just sayin.......