Thread: 2000 turbo regal v.notSnowflake *now with more flames*

I consider it progress when the last time the trans broke it was at 22 PSI and it took till 26 psi to break it again

Keep in mind...we made 600whp at 5500rpm & 18 psi...ran 11.33 @129.x

At 6000rpm we were at 16.8 ms injector pulse width on the 115/127 lb injectors while at 9700hz on the maf.
Everything is jiving quite well between commanded and actual.... and it does look like we will have enough Headroom to get to 28 PSI and 6500 RPM

I'll have to go through the slips but I believe one of our best runs was 13.1 at 126....on 18" all seasons....picking up 32-33mph on the back half. Best we did before was 29/30

112% more fuel flowing at 5500 rpm from the 608hp at 18psi dyno (with 90's) to Saturday 24psi at 5500

deff needed the 127's

How were you guys attaching the reluctor, can't be stock pins.... you have to be a 1" which means bolts?

Yup
Broke 3bolts
Im going to thread all 6 and hole the dimples

Ill just trim the thrust washer legs short

Weld... Just saying from someone who could rip a relucter off any pins, bolts etc etc.

Weld... you love welding

Weld all of the things. Lol

Gears are powdered metal, welding is not a good option.

This is news to me, I've got my gear sent down to Jeff right now having it welded. Oh boy.

mines welded on, no worries

If Bill says weld it...

Dave at triple edge told me not to weld.

I'm on 3 years now, red locktite, and lock washers, so far so good.

You do need the center of the reluctor cut out, the gear is the bearing surface on the 1" setup instead of the reluctor, if you don't cut it out, there will be too much load on the reluctor and it will want to shear off, I believe this is part of the issue with the 7/8" chain setups, the stack up is too thick and overloads the rivets. I got the 1" setup so never followed through with all the measurements on the 7/8 to prove/disprove.

I don't think most people know about cutting out the center...

Originally Posted by SlowFiero

Dave at triple edge told me not to weld.

I'm on 3 years now, red locktite, and lock washers, so far so good.

So what does the reluctor need to be opened up to diameter wise? The way this pin deformation and the heat treat lead me to believe that these gears are not PM gears.

Thanks,

Jeff

Cut out the whole inner area of the reluctor, leaving only the flange where it bolts on. There is a step there where the reluctor is thinner and polished for the thrust washer in the stock setup. The thrust washer must fit inside the hole with no interference. The reluctor will spin with the gear, and must not hit the stationary washer.

Went back and looked at emails. Oem gears are powdered metal not the GMR I guess.

Thanks, I couldn't tell if there was just trans fluid at the step or not.

Jeff

Not a great pic, but kind of shows it.

Originally Posted by BillBoost37

Weld... Just saying from someone who could rip a relucter off any pins, bolts etc etc.

Weld... you love welding

it was MattM's old 2.93 sprockets from the TTGT/BFTGT....after he snapped the 1" gmr chain launching on nitrous
i didnt change a thing to it....but maybe i should have

Originally Posted by SlowFiero

Gears are powdered metal, welding is not a good option.

not welding the tone wheel to the gear, you bolt the tone wheel on and tack weld the bolt to the reluctor/tone wheel instead of safety wire to prevent backing out.

the 7/8ths setups are just modified 4t440/4t60/4t60e sprockets and they didnt have an ISS that i know of.....
from what i recall there's machining for the 4t65e reluctor/tone wheel required to put it in the 65e
pic of 7/8ths 4t60e

Originally Posted by SlowFiero

Went back and looked at emails. Oem gears are powdered metal not the GMR I guess.

correct these gears are billet, you can still see the gear hobbing marks most of the gear guys are guessing that the gear is 4150 steel

at this point im machining lightening holes in the reluctor/tone ring...also probably going to thread all 6 holes and bolt it on with 6 vs 3, all im gonna do is trim the legs on the thrust washer.